2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain
This is a discussion forum of the 1998.5 to 2002 2nd Generation Dodge Ram Trucks with 5.9L Cummins 24 Valve Turbo Diesel power train and drive line system. This includes all sub-system including wiring, fuel, oil, exhaust, air, transmission, computers and sensors.
6,275 topics in this forum
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Hey boys and girls - nothing important but could use some opinions. My truck came with stacks which I have replaced with simple 4" kit.Now I want to sell the stacks but don't know what to ask for $$. It is not a typical stack kit with Y pipe. Previous owner made his own piping for in the bed and attached the stacks to it. The homemade piece has a pipe that goes down through the bed like a typical kit. Pics of stacks are attached.The buyer will have to purchase piping from the downpipe to the pipe coming out of the bed, but I'm including in the sale, the diamond plate protection set up including all rails and hardware to attach.I was going to ask $350 for it all (most …
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I know it's not cold enough yet but, to lessen my idle time by the house this winter (baby) so I plugged in heater to make sure it worked and everything was normal. I plugged in the cord for the first time in 2 yrs and the plug ark welded itself to the power cord, and where the plug goes into the heater element started to smoke an make gurgling noises. Is is there a way to test the cord or the element to figure which part is faulty? As far as I know the element and cord are factory.
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So both front axle u-joints had about 250,000 on them one blew near civilization got that one fixed didn't think about the other side at the time since I found a shop in the town I was staying at to fix it that day they slipped me in and got it done a half hour before they closed so then the other side blew coming through a mountain pass and now I'm in a hotel with no options for repair and wondering if I could do this in a parking lot with no press. Otherwise for the first time in 15+ years of owning the truck I will have to abandon it until Monday when shops in this town (Boscobel WI) open. Any suggestions? Sorry if I put this in the wrong section
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Last year broke elec connection to fuel sender. Dont want to break any more. Any help correct way? Here is pic of connector to one of the wires from passenger side battery. Afraid to apply pressure the wrong way. Plastic puzzle to me. Little numbers 11184 on connector. Do they need special tools... or what's the secret! Thanks
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It surges when eng is cold and after it warms up it seems fine. It reminds me of a tank half full of water, you feel the push then it drags back. I just installed new vp44, new injectors, crossover tube o rings, new airdog 165. Talked with Lenny at DAP and he suggested hooking up Iquad and see what datta it might show. I havent installed the Quadzilla Iquad yet because of this. I also just reset my apps a few minutes ago to see what happens in the morning. A real head scratcher, I hear about ecm's doing this but its always when it heats up, or the vp doing this as it heats up. This gets better as it heats up.
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I`ve been studying these methanol injection kits. They claim substancial HP gains, along with cooler intake temps, and 200-300 degree cooler EGT`s Anybody have any thoughts on them?
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I still have my TC lock up issue so this morning I thought I would check my apps voltages. 0.314 at idle climbs perfectly but max voltage is 3.46 at 100% throttle I believe this is too low?? The quad is showing 100% throttle. Any input would be greatly appreciated guys
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I have an opportunity to get the bd manifold at a good price. New in the box. https://www.xtremediesel.com/bd-power-1045947-exhaust-pulse-manifold Is it a worth while upgrade. I'd be be trading labor, but not sure I want it. It does look good, will it make any power? Lower egts? Help turbo spool quicker? Bd claims it does but from researching I'm not sure. Might just be a pretty part. Figured I'd ask you guys first because I'm torn its literally eating me up not being able to decide.
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Ole girl has been sitting for a good while. waiting for glow plugs to warm up I didn't hear fuel pump run. The FASS 150 has been flawless on the 01 dually over the years. 12.95V from battery across 30 to 87 on the relay but only 8.5V across 85 to 86 with ignition on. Ive never been good at diagnostics, seemed logical. power and ground from original carter pump. That 2 pin connector leads into large factory harness that's run along the block should have 12V right?
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Hey guys - 5.9 cummins project getting a Jeep body swap on it. first post here hoping for some help! Since buying the truck in March I’ve recently replaced the cylinder head with a tested/inspected reman and threw in ARP headstuds and a new head gasket. After installing head I have no start. truck was running and driving perfect before and since the head it’s a no go. fass lift pump and thoroughbred diesel VP44 were each about a year old before I bought the truck. Lift pump is working as it should but I have a feeling injection pump has something wonky going on. When I bleed the rails, fuel shoots intermittently with a ton of bubbles. I’m getting a ton of air in the…
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Well………….I hadn’t drove my truck in over a month so yesterday I thought I would head up to my hunting spot and check it out. I was going to back in so I wouldn’t have to slow down too much when leaving. The snow was pretty piled up at the road bank and looked a little deep in the parking spot so I gave it a little extra to get all the way in. Now I’ve got the following codes that I think are a result of me throwing snow to get the truck parked. I rolled the key 3 times to get them. 1693, 0500, 0234 I have Superchip controller but I keep the truck in “STOCK” mode all the time. The Superchip says I only have 1 DTC the 0234 I tried to clear the code / co…
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1999 24valve auto. Had a set of jammer stage 5 injectors put in. Idle is very rough. Truck ran smooth before. Mods.boost elbow. Fass 185. 1/2 inch fuel line to vp. S& b air box, AFE intake, have a comp box and smarty. Turned them off still rough idle. Thanks for any input.
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I have had a big line kit for the filter housing to the VP44 for some time and want to install it. I have 2 “T’s” to splice into the rubber line in order to install the fuel pressure port. One is for the Quadzilla fuel pressure and the other is to the manual gauge on the pillar. Anyone see a problem with having two taps close together on the rubber line? Right now I have the banjo tapped on the VP for only the manual gauge.
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I have a 2001 cummins 2500 all stock. Just recently put fuel gauge on and at idle I am reading 13psi and driving down highway I am at 10-11psi. I have a new lift pump on order but wont have for a few more days. Is it ok to keep running truck with this fuel psi till I get new pump in this Thursday. Or should I leave it parked for the few days.
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My fuel pressure sporadically changes and considering all the prior investigating I have done, I am wondering if a weak Overflow Valve could be the culprit, or if the ECM is commanding full flow. Seems my fuel pressure will go up a little AFTER a long pull, like maybe the VP44 senses its brain is getting hot and needs more flow to help cool it. My fuel pressure sensor is at the inlet of the VP44, which is equipped with a big, long-sweep Vulcan-supplied fitting, not a banjo bolt. I see the procedure for testing the Overflow Valve regulator is on page 14-84 of the manual (1618 of 2939 in the PDF) and seems pretty easy. Has anyone found this item to be a pr…
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Alrighty gang, I finally got my new switch installed last weekend. I figured I would go through some of the basics on how I did my install just so others can have an idea on how to do theirs. When you get your switch in the mail, it should have the following things included: -The actual switch with wiring and connectors -A small piece of 3/8's heavy walled plastic tubing -Three 1" screws If something is missing, DAP will take care of your needs. If not, I am sure Ed could lend a helping hand wherever needed. First thing I did was remove the dash bezel. It just has pop clips all over the place that hold it to the front of the dash and around the cluster, radio,…
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So i have a valair 550hp clutch in my nv4500 and i just did a burn out 1st through 4th cus it was wet out in my dually and i thought it was spinning in 4th but after i smelt a heavy smell of my clutch. This clutch only has like 15k miles max on it. Is this something i should be worried about. I only held it for like 3 or 4 seconds in Fourth befor i let off i just hope i didnt rewin it
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Long story short my truck stopped running the other day out of the blue in my driveway. No power going to injection pump or external air dog lift pump. I can jump out relays for both and truck starts and idles only. All power and grounds to Ecm checked out good, evrything i tested pointed to bad ECM. Replaced it tonight and still have same GD issue..... I'm at a total loss right now and dont know which direction to go.......need ideas:banghead:It's a 2002 2500 24v automatic
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I decided to have my shop install my rv275's and gould vac pump reseal kit... hoping that I could avoid tearing anything apart myself since this is the busy time of year for work. But now that my fuel and oil leaks are fixed... another oil leak has presented itself behind the motor, I believe from the valve cover. I gave them a brand new gasket from Geno's to install when they did the injectors. I am thinking they must have just not seated the gasket properly as it never leaked there before. Instead of wasting the time (and oil) driving it back to the shop, I want to do this myself. I recently read something about the newer trucks having something interlaced through the g…
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