2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

I crawled under my truck recently looked up and found under my oil filter there is a leak coming off a hose with two clamps. Traced it found out it goes to the turbo. I haven't taken it off so I don't know what size I need or what it is. If it is special hose or the length of the piece. I looked online found 3/4 7/8 silicon high temp you name it etc. can anyone help me out here thanks.

Ignition won't ground out have to pull fuel relay to kill engine dash lights stay on with key off already changed ignition disconnected alternator pulled starter to see if contacts hung up idk what to do I gotta get it fixed by tomorrow

I know this subject has been covered before. But I have a quick question. My buddy has his 99 Dodge that has the infamous lockup issue. I told him over and over it was the alternator. I told him to test by unplugging the alternator and of course the issue cleared up. I said he needed to get a Nations Alternator but he bought an O'reilly's reman alternator. After about a week he has having the same issue. But now even with the alternator unplugged the trans is still surging in and out of lockup. Could the PCM be failing now?

Ok so I have a 1999 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins. It just randomly started revving and trying to turn my rear wheels and Rolling coal when I was slowing down to stop. It happened when I got down to about 10 mph, and the revving caused my truck to shake very aggressively. I also noticed it was shifting to early (my truck was shifting so early, I was already in overdrive by about 48 mph?? Any solutions/ suggestions? Thank you for any help you can provide

I have a 99 dodge cummins with 85,000 miles has hypertech programmer and bully dog 5 inch exhaustI recently replaced fuel filter when realized the lift pump wasnt pumping, replaced itThe problem is when the truck is cold it cranks goes into gear fine drives fineafter truck warms up it will cut off while idling in gear doesnt start back as good a normaltruck does not show any codes thanks for ANY help

I bought the truck in the pic. It's a 99 dodge ram 2500 5.9 manual 4x4. It had a 55 block swap and trying to determine the year of engine is in the truck. Any help is appreciated!

My 99 quad cab long box always makes you work to drive it. It does not wonder down the road, it seems to be sensitive to movement of the steering wheel have checked tie rods and steering links. Wonder what you guys though should be next on my list.

Hi All, New member here, and relatively new Cummins owner. I have a 1999 24V, pretty much stock with 140k on it that I've owned for about 6 months. Last night I had an assortment of problems pop up and I'm not sure where to begin the troubleshooting process. Unfortunately it appears to be electrical, which is my nemesis. The truck has been running great, no problems starting in cold weather, no smoke, etc. basically just runs great. 2 days ago I was in the process of moving and had my friend drive my truck home since I had the Uhaul. (Don't these problems always happen right after someone else drives your truck?) We drove about 200 miles, hauling a pretty he…

I have a 99 5.9 with a low pressure fuel pump not working. I changed out the pump today (160 bucks)with a new one but still no work. I ran out of time today to check voltage on the pump but I think it is a shoe in that it is not getting voltage during crank. I tried the bump engine but don't start, to hopefully get the low press pump to initiate but it will not. I did get the pump to work once a couple months ago and I think it happened when I drained the fuel filter through the bleed valve on the filter. Then went back to crank and the pump initiated. When I swapped out the pump today the filter was drained but it still did not initiate. All of that leading me to believe…

1999 ram jerks when turning like it's in 4x4 but the front drive is not turning so I know it's not in 4x4. Where should I start looking? U joints?

Hey folks, It seems I’ve gotten myself into a situation. About 2 weeks ago my alternator started going out. It would charge fine for a while then drop voltage to 12.3-12.4 and sometimes completely off to around 11v. Monitoring with the gauge on my edge. When charging it would bounce from 13-14v. This started when I was about 300 miles from home. I limped the truck home without replacing it and noticed that on the back of the alternator the clip which secured the plug had broken and would not click and secure. Figured this was my problem and engineered a zip tie fix but didn’t drive the truck again until yesterday. On that drive the truck started giving me the 30 sec…

Time to change all of the fluids. Oil, rear end, trans, coolant. Everything else seems to be working fine. I might change out my apps because i am shifting a little late. I am hoping the late shift is from a small loss of power from a faulty apps. If not it is probably a weak pump.

Hi all. Thanks in advance for your time and wisdom. Second gen 24 valve. Quadzilla tuner. No "wait" light and no grid heater in cold weather, but from the voltage drop I can tell the grid heaters do come on after starting, even if the IAT is reading over 100 degrees (I can see what it's reading through the Quadzilla). Doesn't always come on, but most of the time it does when when the engine is hot. Already replaced the IAT sensor and no change in symptoms. Throttle position sensor (already replaced and no change in symptoms) often forgets itself. Have to turn off, back on, press all the way down and release slowly and start. Then w…

Hey guys, recently picked up a smarty so in the process of tuning and changing tire size, I checked my DTCs and got a couple I hadn't seen before so looking for a sanity check on these. First one is I'm curious if this is a typical code to expect since I'm using a lock up switch? Seems like it, but some assurance would be nice. Second is Does this relate to the lockup switch as well? Or something else? My alternator seems to be doing it's job. Appears to come up with at least 12-ish volts prior to start and gets the needle up over 14 when driving so appears to be charging. What else should I be looking for? FWI…

I have been reading your articles and have a question about the Electric Fuel Gauge article. I am taking my tap point from the top of the existing fuel canister with a needle valve. I have a mechanical gauge now, but I am going to replace it with the ISSPRO EV2. Is this far enough from the VP44 or should I go a little further away before putting the sender in? I also have a question about the W-T ground wire mod - simplified version. In the article next to the last picture there is a connection in the ground wire about 3 inches to the right of your hand. Is this the fusible link that you talk about at the end of your article? I did my ground mod using W-T…

I was on a road trip this weekend when my check engine light came on. I pulled over and did the key trick just to see what I could find. It came up with these: P0500 P1687 P0237 I know the P0500 code is probably from spinning the tires on some gravel or something. The other 2 have me wondering though. I have noticed some slight power issues lately that I didn't realize could be MAP related but its almost like the sensor is coming and going. Sometimes I can black out the sky and sometimes it feels like about 1/2 power. I haven't disconnected the comp yet to see if that effects anything. I will do that tonight and clear the codes. As for the 1687, what doe…

Im fairly certain my VP44 took a big ol' dump on me the other day and now I have to spend a grand on another one. Im trying to troubleshoot so that I dont have to spend ANOTHER grand on a pump.It seems to me that the main issue with these pumps going bad is the fuel not being cooled enough and the pump and/or electronics overheat. So would it be a good idea to either:A. Coil the fuel line up after the filter housing (kind of looking like brake lines by a master cylinder) before it goes into the VP.orB. run the fuel lines through some sort of a small oil or tranny cooler mounted in the front somewhere after the filter housing but before the VP.Am I WAAAAY off base here? an…

O.K. so I'm chasing a hard start issue and apparently a little air leak seems to be the kryptonite to the mighty Cummins. Everyone says replace sealing washers, connector tube O-rings and the return T. In my searching I've found many don't know where to get the parts and when they find out they come from Cummins they don't know the part numbers. I got on Cummins quick serve which I found difficult to navigate and finally found the parts and #'s, and added them to my cart. Trying to check out all I got was some Java bla,bla,bla message. I'm no IT guy and you should not have to be to use a website. I found out they have a central warehouse 50 mi. from me so I called them di…

Yeeeep... DAP 75HP Injectors! :hyper:Its raining like a cow pissin' on a flat rock! :ahhh:Stay tuned! I'm gonna post up about the install and let you guys know how it pans out!

Having cold start issues not that it's taking longer to start but it pops off to the normal 800 rpms but then a split second later it drops to 500 or so and sounds like it might die. Then come back up and never does it again just when it sits over night. if I plug it in it doesn't have this it starts just fine When I get to 190 and shut the truck off and restart the truck it's fine. The only this different I have different if instead of the puff of black Smoke it is more of a gray. The only code I have is po602 and the could be from the superchip I have. I haven't looked into it to much because I really have no idea where to start. Would like to figur…