2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

My lift pump takes 20-25 seconds to get power; I think thats too long. No Codes. Sign of Fubar PCM?:banghead:

Okay, so I got geared up with some extra tools to do my injectors. Got an evercraft crofoot set from napa for $11! They looks like some good tools. Then I got myself a 1/2" to 3/8"s adapter for my torque wrench. I did get an inch pound torque wrench, but it was useless to have. It went from 120in/lbs to 960in/lbs. My 1/2" goes from 10ft/lbs to 150ft/lbs. Since the crossover tubes and lines hooking to it are 28ft/lbs, can I get away with doing 10ft/lbs on the injector clamp bolt? Or maybe just set it at 10ft/lbs and then stop a little before it clicks? Now, I still need to get o-rings for the crossover tubes, but I was wondering what you guys suggest. I know I ha…

My wheel bearings are shot and I'm having trouble finding the right ones. My truck is a 99 and has front ABS, is this unusual? Th person at hub and bearing warehouse didn't know that 99's came with front ABS. Would bearings for a 2000 work?

To remove wheel bearings you must first get to them.I left one tire on the ground the other i used a jack stand to get it off the ground.The rotor can be a major pain.I use a air hammer with a dime size bit and hammer around the lugs.Some times this works.If the rotors are trashed just beat them.You will crack them but if there trashed and you are going to replace them then it is no biggie.You need to remove the brake caliper and the bracket that holds it.Be careful not to bend the dust cover it is sandwitched between the wb and the housing.Use a bungie or a coat hanger to hold up the caliper out of the way. The axle nut should stay on.Remove the 4 bolts 1/2 way out tha…

I know I am off topic but I have to ask. I was checking out the picture of Mikes trucks with the fire trucks.Mike could you get me the info on your tire and wheel combo. I have 35's on 16 and a half inch wheels and looking to downsize. Your rig looks good with what you are running.Luke

Well I was excited that I found an upgrade turbo a HE351W Ya the Chinese Holset.(since my PacBrake would bolt up) that was going to be bolt on, but the modulator? for the wastegate hit the oil filter housing. I removed one of the studs from the manifold just to get it in there. Now I need to determine the best way to make it fit. Thinking of bending the the bracket or cutting to move it up. Always up for suggestions.

Out of shear curiosity, how long and/or how many miles do you go before changing your oil? What oil do you use? Myself I use Amsoil 15w40 and generally go about 6000 miles before I change it. I'm still programmed to change oil every 3000 miles so it just feels wrong to even go that long! I've read where some people go a whole year between oil changes and so I would just like to start a poll and see what guys are doing! Thanks!

So, finally got the truck all ready to go since rebiild. I got 1100 trouble free miles on it. Been pushing it hard, trying to weed out any bugs or issues. Hook up the 5th wheel, get going down the road, 4 miles....4 #@&#$! miles... And I blow a freeze plug on right under turbo on the water jacket. 4 miles.... Now, before ya ask, yes, I replaced all the freeze plugs during the build. However, I had them done at the machine shop when the block was getting worked over. So, now what...roadside assistance got me home....but for some reason I don't think the answer is to just put in a new freeze plug and then "go see what happen…

Last year I had the dead pedal syndrome on my 2001 Cummins 3 hours away from home pulling our camper. I limped the truck home with the camper after our summer vacation. Anytime I would start from a dead stop, extremely slow acceleration. It would run down the interstate fine once up to speed. FF, I changed out the lift pump which must have been failing because it wasnt pumping enough fuel. Also replaced the stock exhaust to a 4", added 4 guages & installed the BHAF system. New tires, new ball joints, new power steering pump and I thought I was all set for awhile. Last week while hauling the trailer, I had the dead pedal syndrome once again everytime the tranny …

hello ... for several days it gives me the p0222 code but it did not cause a fault that I felt driving, I did not use the truck for a week and yesterday when I started it it made like 8 injection cuts in a row and very strong and then the engine was turned off I just started it several times but he did the same and the throttle does not respond and the only code he gives is the P0222, I am very worried I don't know what it will be. thanks for your help. Orlando

Living in North Carolina we don't frequently see extremely low temps but last year we had a few weeks that went as low as 8 degrees. I don't think they sell winterized diesel here, at least I can't find anything that says they do. I'm wondering at what temp should I use and anti-gel supplement? Also, I always run 2-stroke oil in my fuel. Is it safe to run anti-gel with the 2-stroke when necessary?

Getting set to start upgrading my ‘01, including 100hp injectors, head studs, turbo, FASS, clutch, exhaust, exhaust brake, Quad, and gauges. At what point should I consider upgrading to heavier valve springs? I’m targeting around 450-475 whp with the changes I’m making, but at what point should the stock valve springs be updated? Hope everyone had a very Merry Christmas!

So after extensive testing the pcm is not putting out 12v positive to the alternator/trans relay circut. Without going to the dealer to confirm yet, which will happen. Anyways after much searching I have not found anything consistent, but a whole bunch of rebuilder websites. I don't have much faith in any of them, but have any of you taken the plunge and bought a remain pcm? If so how is it holding up? I started calling junk yards around here with no luck, so I'm already assuming that either I'll have to try the internet or go to the dealer. Anyone have any help? Thanks!

I've found a good place to mount my Fass titanium relay on my '99 and rout the harness in the engine bay. Mocking things up. Was curious where others mounted your fass relay switch and ran your harness on your 2nd gen

Determined I have 2 crap IP pumps....Need ONE TODAY...any ideas....I am in Eugene, will travel where needed Call me PLEASE 541-232-9958

As the title states, I while installing my Wicked Wheel on my HX35W I snapped the tip of the shaft off getting it tight. I know the instructions say to get it hand tight but it was seized and would not spin freely at all. The tighter I got it the looser it got and spun a little more freely until it snapped. It's for a 99 manual truck. I'm not trying to buy anything that's not genuine, I would buy just the center piece but my exhaust housing has been rusted to the point where it will not budge and I need to clock it for the compound turbo setup.

hey everyone im new to this wonderful forum,anyways ive got a 2002 dodge 2500 single cab diesel and everything on my truck is stock so where is a good starting point as what i should upgrade first. I want to add some power but nothing outrages just mosty for towing.

I have all my gauges and comp ran through the hole that the clutch rod goes through so im gonna have to change them out. Do you with stick shifts drill a hole or is there a better spot?

Where is the article on testing for AC leakage using a good multimeter Cant find it. Guy on other forum said there was a good article here Thanks Rick

^^^ like the title says I am looking for the best place to buy 2 new front wheel hub/bearing assemblies for my TWO wheel drive 2001 dually. I can find 4 wheel drive hubs all day long, but 2 wheel drive not so much! I know very few folks have 2 wheel drives so I am sure it is a supply and demand thing.