2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

Hi there, First time posting, but i have been reading posts for a while now, really appreciate all the help this forum has given me in doing a 1998.5, 5 speed, 24V Cummins swap into my 1976 Chevy 3/4 ton. I am now working on the building a fuel tank, I'm halfway done building it. I just was about to drill holes, and I've run into a question i have on where I'm going to run the return line from the VP44, and also from the Fass 95g lift pump i have installed. This picture represents where I would like my fuel tank to be, its 65" wide, 32" tall, and 6" deep I have scrapped the idea of using the factory Chevy saddle tanks, as i want und…

Greetings. New to Forum. New to Cummin's Mods. Would appreciate any help/advice I can get. Patient: Mostly stock 2000, 3500, 4wd, Auto, Raptor f.p, VP44 i.p. Stock breather on timing cover, no breather on tappet cover. 325K but seams to run good, no appreciable smoke. Used 99% highway driving with lots of 5th wheel and trailer hauling. Illness: Massive oil leak from bottom of factory tappet cover. Engine and sub frame coated with so much oil from leaking tappet cover, it is hard to tell if hose from stock breather is dripping much oil or if anything else is leaking. Proposed Treatment: Replacement of tappet cover with billet tappet cover which …

I don’t have voltage at C3 Pin25 on the pcm so there’s no charging or O/D. How does the pcm know to provide voltage to that pin? Does it use the engine speed signal at C1 Pin 8? If I check it and have the correct frequency and voltage but still no voltage at the blue wire can I use an ignition hot on that to make things work correctly? Will I still have the modulating ground signal on the gen field wire if there’s no 12v on the blue? If I use an ignition hot to power the trans relay will the pcm still activate the o/d solenoid?

Any help appreciated. 1999 24v air dog lift, timbo apps, edge comp box. Start the engine and it runs up to full throttle without pushing the pedal. Is this an ECM issue? No codes thrown, thottle cable intact. I'm at a loss here.

Two days ago my CHECK GAGES light came on and the volt gauge sunk to 8V. My USB plug showed 11.9 Volts yup it died. I got a new alternator and a day later it did it again. No error codes either. I checked my PCM protection fuse and sure enough the fuse fell out of the cover. I took a pair of pilers and squeezed the sockets closed again and it fixed. My alternator I've got now is a Bosch not a ND. Yeah make sure to check your fuse holder and be sure its not loose. It weird because mine is taped to the loom and not floppy around.

Hey guys I've got a weird issue. The map sensor randomly goes out or how ever you'd put it, like I can start my truck and quad adr boost says 47psi, I can kill the truck and start it again in 5 mins and sometimes it'll fix its self other times I'm just stuck driving with a rough diesel guzzling gold painted turd. Can ANYONE point me in the direction of where to start?

Is there anyone in Tucson that could maybe stop by, I need some assistance. I really need my truck working. I have a 2002 Ram 3500. Didn't seem like it was getting power to the ecm. Did all the grounding mods and that fixed the problem. Went to start the other day WTS light came on and then shut off a couple of times then went off for good. Now it's the same problem.

Help from the wizards please. I have a coolant leak dripping from the back of the head running down the bell housing. I stuck a small mirror back there and I see a sensor bubbling around the ceramic center. I tried to identify the sensor in the service manual, no joy. This sensor is screwed onto the head, water jacket at the aft end of the head between the head and firewall, thanks!!!

I feel special today for having a reason to post in the 24V section, but I digress. Friend bought a 01 2500 2wd auto and it has about 310k on it. The injection pump and injectors had been replaced just before they bought it. $3000 and had a "bottom end knock" which turned out to be a cracked flex plate. So, the fuel pump went out on him and he replaced the in tank unit and the block mounted pump. Ran fine for several days and then it stutters and dies. He bleeds up to the injection pump and it fires off. Makes it about 3 blocks and does the same. Won't fire back up. (He is one of the duller knifes in the drawer but learns his lesson. Hard to get a…

02 ram 3500 4X4 manual 6 speed. I bought it in sad shape, wouldn't start. New items are batteries, battery cables, starter, alternator. At this point it would start and run, instrument cluster worked. Still no charging. I tested voltage coming from PCM, blue wire to ground=0. I had checked continuity of green and blue wires to make sure they weren't eedshorted or open. I'm assuming PCM was bad. At this same time I decided I would charge the batteries up. I removed them and charged them. Upon installing them I accidentally shorted black and red together on the passenger side with the driver's side hooked up. Then when I started the truck it ran but no bus appeared and no i…

I replaced my turbo with this one. http://theturboplace.com/-S200GX-E-Dodge-Ram-Upgrade-Turbo--12769880001_p_290.html And replaced the manifold with a stock one. It had a crack in it at on the flange where the turbo mounts on. Now I'm getting a plume of white smoke upon acceleration. Have't tried driving it. The truck only has just over 100k miles on it. Fuel pressure is at 15 PSI at idle. Which is what it was before. I'm running Bosch RV 275 injectors which I put in in Oct 2018 I have no error codes. What should I look for next? Any ideas would be appreciated.

I just bought a 2002 Ram 3500 5.9 six speed manual a couple of weeks ago and drove it home. Went to start it a couple of days ago and it wouldn't start. Cranks but no start. Checked batteries and had 1 bad one one so I replaced both. Same issue with new batteries installed. checked codes. P0123 and P1694. Wait to start light does not illuminate and can not hear lift pump come on. I did the dash light test with the trip meter depressed and wait to start still doesn't illuminate. The only thing I did between when it was running and not running was hook up some wires to make the running boards lights work. There is some evidence of rats chewing some wires but nothin…

So I installed a egt sensor when I got my adrenaline however long ago it was. Alls been fine up until last week. I noticed it was defueling very often with lots of throttle and I was hitting my 1200 egt limit very fast. I checked the fittings and the one that goes directly into the manifold is loose and I can hear a whistle. I’m worried to go any tighter because it would be at the very top of the threads and I’m worried it would make it too big to even hold the fitting at that point. Is there any other type of fitting I can use that’s a size up but will still fit the adrenaline egt probe?

I plan to install my new injectors soon and was wondering if that would be a good time to install head studs. Can a guy loosen all 26 bolts, then install the studs 'finger tight' one at a time without worrying about the head shifting or otherwise affecting the head gasket? Or, is it recommended to completely remove the cylinder head and install new gasket when installing studs?

I'm staring to feel a vibration from the differential when starting from a dead stop, especially when turning a corner, thinking my Trac-Loc is done, anyone ever R&R that carrier? I figure since there's no problem in the ring gear/pinion gear wear pattern, I should be able the replace those clutches with just pulling the axles (3500) non-weight bearing on the axles, just make sure I put back any shims that might be under the carrier bolts. Don't think I would have to even mess with pinion. Any thoughts? If I remember right when both wheels are off the ground,when a wheel is rotated both wheels should spin in same direction,right?

Water in fuel light came on when I was in town. Wating to get home till I would drain the filter. But I came to a stop sign and the truck just died. So I drained both filters. Put fresh fuel in the filters. But the light is still on, I tried to start it. Nothing

So, I've noticed a bit of a low frequency vibration lately, usually just after shifting in to 5th gear at roughly 50-55 mph. Today I got under the truck to check my suspicions and sure enough the carrier bearing is shot. Grabbed the drive shaft yanked on it to see the slop around that bearing. Has anyone used the cheaper ones from say O'Riley auto parts or advance auto? I don't want to spend alot right now since I haven't worked in almost 8 weeks so have to stay on the cheap end for now. They both list one for around $25.

My AirDog 150 has about 8-9 years on it and thinking it may die at any time. Whats the latest on the manual pumps and filter set up for it?

Getting set to start upgrading my ‘01, including 100hp injectors, head studs, turbo, FASS, clutch, exhaust, exhaust brake, Quad, and gauges. At what point should I consider upgrading to heavier valve springs? I’m targeting around 450-475 whp with the changes I’m making, but at what point should the stock valve springs be updated? Hope everyone had a very Merry Christmas!

Wondering if more filtration would be a good idea? Completely stock except Airdog fuel pump with… fuel filter is 2 (or3) micron and water I have no clue what spec’s are. I change out filters every 6,000 miles. Filters are whatever Vulcan sends me when I ask for Airdog 100 filters. Fuel line goes from Airdog pump to VP44. Fuel is bought at high volume places and I change my filters and other fluids often. (All except steering fluid I'm pretty lazy on.) If more filtration is suggested, what is a good set up in your opinion? Thanks