2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

HI all, I found info from MoparMan on puting the in the 5amp inline fuse to the blue wire of PCM for protection. I am trying to find more info in regards to putting in a similar protection fuse for the ECM and Vp44. Has anyone done something like this? Long story short both had died on me and have been replaced. I'm going to clean all my grounds etc. but would like extra protection. The W-T mod is on the urgent list of things to do as well (along with AC noice testing)- I found articles in regards to it and MoparMans video on AC testing. Is there a video on the W-T mod?

Finally purchased a rebuilt VP44; it arrived yesterday & the swap was today's project. Replaced the factory VP44 11 years ago. And apparently, I significantly over tightened the high pressure lines on the back of the replacement VP44 because I really struggled to get them off. Modified a 17mm crows-foot flarenut wrench to get enough back pressure then I was able to get the line nuts to finally brake free. My guess is i was trying to get the lines to not leak. Now the ends are mushed over (see pic). Hard for me to believe I tightened them that much but obviously I did (I was broke down out-of-town...might have had something to do with it). …

200℉ Cummins ThermostatI've been experimenting with hotter coolant temperatures and found for most daily drivers this is a good way to go. The added heat actually will improve the MPG number just slightly and reduce EGT's slightly. Gates - 34212 - 200℉This is direct replacement number. It will fit into your 1998.5 to 2002 Dodge Ram Cummins 5.9L engine without any modifications. ResultsSummer operation floats right around 204 to 210℉ coolant temperatures. With the tuning I've done on Quadzilla the engine oil temperature will stay 30 to 35℉ cooler than coolant. This stays the same for even wintertime operations with no issues so far in one year of operation even towing. In …

So my truck is plagued with an overboost code. My quad shows 39psi regardless of throttle position. I have removed the Quad and will be sending it in for repair. I cleared the codes and put my Edge EZ back in and I get the same code. I replaced the Apps and Map last fall. I guess now I disconnect the EZ and run stock tuning to see if it continues? I can't get it smogged with this code hanging out.......

Second seal leaking and thinking that maybe the tin cover is warped. Does anybody have this problem? I hate seal leaks with a passion almost enough to buy a billet cover. Any seal brand names better than others?

I'm looking at purchasing an s475 to replace my s366 I got unintentionally.. I found a boostlabs s475 83 .90 T4 for sale brand new for $600 on marketplace.... I would be using it for twins so the t4 has got to go. I hear there are 2 different CHRA's on the t4 vs t6 turbos. That being said how would I go about swapping to a 1.10 or similar t6 housing. Need completely new bearings housing and turbine housings?? That sounds far too expensive to be worthwhile. From what I can tell the bearing housings a mostly identical except for the diameter where the exhaust housing clamps on. Also what's the deal with the 83/74 and 87/80 and 88/96 wheel si…

My ScanGauge2 is showing my IAT constantly at -40F. I just installed a brand new IAT sensor, with no change. Since it's reading -40f constantly, is that an indication that it has a bad ground wire? I have the IAT sensor trouble code showing until I can get this fixed. Thanks!

2001 3500, manual A few months ago, 'no bus' showed up on my gauge cluster, and the gauges died. Truck started and ran fine, but no gauges after a few seconds past startup. Was driving it on short trips until it started stumbled and started getting loud fuel knock going down the road at 45. Brought it home, let it sit for a week. Next time I fired it up, it was smoking really good at idle, and cleared up when it was warm, but it's down on power pretty good once warm. Codes pulled at this point are: P0237, P0234, P1698, P0216 I reset the codes and only P0216 and P1698 came back. Gauge codes are 920, 921, 940 ,950, 999 …

I’ve got codes 0253, 1689, and 1688 so I think I did a pretty good job of cooking the vp44. DAP is getting me set up with a new one but before I put it in, does anyone have any recommendations for things I should look at to preserve the next pump? i have over boost code 0234 so I’ll check the waste gate to see if it moves (I guess?) also am planning to check ac noise and do the w-t mod. i have the DAP intake elbow, quadzilla, and stealth plate coming too

Good morning everyone! Here’s the story, might be a little long but I want to give every detail so it makes it easier, bought an 01 24valve auto off a used car lot not running dirt cheap. Guy didn’t seem to understand these trucks. Only mods are a fass DDRP, nothing else truck has 140k, and a new reman trans, very carefully inspected truck and no prior meatball repairs or hacked wiring. upon first arriving at the lot here’s what I did. - trucks battery terminals were beat/ corroded, managed to get them tight and partially clean -found fuel relay missing out of fuse box under hood, swapped with horn relay and truck fired, ram very poorly but was enough to get on …

Several years ago when I changed my front diff fluid I was pretty sure I over filled and it vented some fluid and pretty much clogged the prefilter on my BAHF. Today while changing my ac compressor I could see that it has vented again. It has been near 4 years since I changed it. What would make it vent fluid now? I have a trail down the inner fender well.

Last week is when this started. I was chasing that P1689 code and ended up replacing the data link connector on the edge harness and it seems okay so far. But looking at the map sensor connector this morning i noticed it was missing the rubber seal on both end of the connector and the pins looked to have some oxidation on them. I cleaned them and put some grease on there and no luck. Whats weird is no check engine light and everything seems to be running normally. If i didnt look at the gauge i would have had no idea it wasnt reading anything. Im hoping someone knows what that connector is called or who makes it so i can order one up and replace it…

I'm replacing my fuel lines and found a capped banjo fitting on the intake of the stock fuel filter housing. It looks to me as if it were brazed shut. Any ideas as to what it's there for?

Looking to buy a Quadzilla here is the links back to Quadzilla Power. 1998.5 to 2000 Dodge Ram Quadzilla Adrenaline $699.99 2001 Dodge Ram Quadzilla Adrenaline $699.99 2002 Dodge Ram Quadzilla Adrenaline $699.99 Section 1: Custom Tuning V1 The v1 of custom tuning allowed for these changes to be made to the base tunes. I have split the custom tuning into sections to better explain the effect each has on how the truck drives and how much power is put down from electrical fueling. ******************************************************************************************************************…

First atf change on my rebuild transmission and I figured I'd throw in a transgo shift kit in it while I was in it. I really wish I took readings of pressures before I tore into it. Now I'm looking at 90 psi at 1200 rpm dead stop and 120 psi with the tv valve all the way foward at 1200 rpm. I've done a bunch of reading on this site and read some great guides. But I cant find someone with the same problem I'm having. According to transgo I should be seeing closer to 120 -155. Only other mods to the transmission was a single disc billet torque converter and a upgraded 2nd gear strut and anchor. Am I ok to run at these pressures? Is my pump going out? Or do I need to upgrade…

Here are some videos of the pre and post Quadzilla with V2 Tuning. Looking to buy a Quadzilla here is the links back to Quadzilla Power. 1998.5 to 2000 Dodge Ram Quadzilla Adrenaline $699.99 2001 Dodge Ram Quadzilla Adrenaline $699.99 2002 Dodge Ram Quadzilla Adrenaline $699.99 Side note, if you would rather have a pre built tune to start with you can checkout our tune repository. https://mopar1973man.com/forum/182-quadzilla-v2-custom-tune-repository/ You can find the "How To Tune" article here If you find after watching the below videos that you want to upgrade to the Quadzilla Adr…

Well strange one. Owned my 24v since new, no matter how long it's been parked sometimes years with disconnected batteries. They key fobs have always worked and the truck started no problem. Twice in the last 6 months my key fobs have stopped working and needed to be re coded to work and allow the truck to start! I didn't know this truck had any type of security immobiliser on it! My ram is 99 with the sport package. Does this sound like a CTM issue? If so are they plug and play? Or do they require coding? Can I remove the factory immobiliser? Thanks for any help 🙏 I'm in the UK so it's hard work get…

Fuel Gauge Replacement Sender For all of you that are running around with a broken fuel gauge that reads incorrect level than actual fuel level, there is a replacement sender that you can get from the Dodge Dealer. Part Number: 4897669AB (For 2000-2002 Dodge Ram) Part number # 4897669AC (Updated fuel sender part number - Oct, 2020 @Towrigdually) Approximate Cost: $68.45 I was warned by the Dodge Dealer than the actually part number may vary and you should contact a local Dodge Dealer and provide them with the VIN number so to get the proper part for your application. As for requiring an In-Tank Lift pump you do not and don't let them sell you one …

I been dragging my feet, I should have posted this a month ago. But the main thing is it's finally running right once again. Here it is and Im guilty of doing this a lot, looking over things and saying its good to go, its fine. Well I took my truck to two brothers in San Antonio who Ive heard really good feed back on. Anyway they found it in pretty quick. One of the pins backed out on the apps plug. And of course when you pulled it apart it would go back into its correct spot, push it back together and it was just making enough contact to run and once it got hot it would act up doing some wild crazy stuff. Just glad it wasn't the ecm. Check the obvious.

I was typing up this long lengthy post about how great y'all are and how I've fixed all my issues on my 1998.5 24v. Blah blah then I lost it some how. Y'all are great! Thank you for all the content. Long story long I had shifting issues. I did the W-T wiring, rebuilt PCM and ECM from Auto Computer Specialist (recommended), and had altenator rebuilt, timbo apps. Day two of the great fix my 150amp breaker tripped and left me with dead batteries. I followed the How to Test Your Altenator post and while testing the blue and green wire i noticed my green wire test lite lit up on both sides of battery terminal...hum short maybe, i continued the test and notice conti…