2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

Water in fuel light came on when I was in town. Wating to get home till I would drain the filter. But I came to a stop sign and the truck just died. So I drained both filters. Put fresh fuel in the filters. But the light is still on, I tried to start it. Nothing

So, I've noticed a bit of a low frequency vibration lately, usually just after shifting in to 5th gear at roughly 50-55 mph. Today I got under the truck to check my suspicions and sure enough the carrier bearing is shot. Grabbed the drive shaft yanked on it to see the slop around that bearing. Has anyone used the cheaper ones from say O'Riley auto parts or advance auto? I don't want to spend alot right now since I haven't worked in almost 8 weeks so have to stay on the cheap end for now. They both list one for around $25.

My AirDog 150 has about 8-9 years on it and thinking it may die at any time. Whats the latest on the manual pumps and filter set up for it?

Getting set to start upgrading my ‘01, including 100hp injectors, head studs, turbo, FASS, clutch, exhaust, exhaust brake, Quad, and gauges. At what point should I consider upgrading to heavier valve springs? I’m targeting around 450-475 whp with the changes I’m making, but at what point should the stock valve springs be updated? Hope everyone had a very Merry Christmas!

Wondering if more filtration would be a good idea? Completely stock except Airdog fuel pump with… fuel filter is 2 (or3) micron and water I have no clue what spec’s are. I change out filters every 6,000 miles. Filters are whatever Vulcan sends me when I ask for Airdog 100 filters. Fuel line goes from Airdog pump to VP44. Fuel is bought at high volume places and I change my filters and other fluids often. (All except steering fluid I'm pretty lazy on.) If more filtration is suggested, what is a good set up in your opinion? Thanks

So we have an oil pressure gauge, which I just replaced the switch for, that's buried in under the fuel filter etc. Is there a different sensor for oil level that triggers the oil light to come on? I'm thinking I would like to refresh that with a new one if there is. Thanks again for all your help, wisdom and especially all the silliness.

I did start a topic on this earlier but deleted it as I was soooo confused on what I needed to use the block heater in the UK. I have a 110v transformer as households here in the UK use a much more deathly 240v, all work sites use 110v so 240v to 110v transformers are rather common BUT our 110v uses totally different plugs and sockets and heavier cabling also, so I was going to ask what I needed to connect to the block heater plug at the rad support but after switching between several USA sites and several open ebay pages I found a company here supplies the very item, only small problem it's amazon and I for one think Mr Bozo is rich enough without my ££…

I see IPVR16X injection pumps, and they say they fit only cab-chassis and medium duty trucks. Is this a 'physically won't fit', or a 'emission laws say they can't be used in pickups' statement? It seems to me that if you're going to put in RV275 injectors or larger, you may as well put in the VP44 model that was DESIGNED for those injectors! Of course the ECM, cam grind, etc. won't be similarly modified. A Duck Duck Go search has failed me, so I am now here inquiring. Blue Chip Diesel and Oregon Fuel injection mention them but say "medium duty only". Just wondering, I'm not really in the market for an injection pump right now. [Knocks on wood]

So getting the driver side axle u joint done today. I did the passenger side about 6 months ago and everything went fine. So here’s where I need help. I watched a few videos and read a few articles on the driver side, and some people have said that if it’s 4wd you have to lock it in 4 so that something doesn’t drop in the diff when you pull the axle shaft? Is there any truth to this or can I just do it the same as the passenger side? Also does anyone seem to have a part number for the driver side u joint? Autozone gave me too small of one already which I remember they did last time so I had to bring in my old one to compare. Today I don’t have another Vehicle to go back i…

Hello all, recently had a low voltage code p0122 on my 99. Figured it was the stock tps and decided to replace with the highly reviewed TIMBO. now I’m not sure if these issues were present before the timbo install due to not having a good code reader. I am now using a snap on brick code reader. my issue is with the key on, ignition off I have a steady tps voltage of .66 and it will rise appropriately with pedal push and return to .66. However when I start the truck and let it idle the voltage is very sporadic. Never staying at a solid number even when pushing the pedal. The truck runs and drives fine without one issue beside the check en…

I'm currently searching through google and the forum for help. Posting because I'm confused as to whether its my PCM or ECM also clueless. Last night I was driving and I parked and shut off my truck. I did switch my tune to one I got from here but used previously without any problems. A few minutes later I started my truck just fine as always and about a second later it shut off. ODO flashes "no bus" / no wait to start light / overhead says "ccd" / gauges don't work / airdog won't turn on , cranks strong but gets NO fuel at ALL / connected scan tool but says it can't connect / also phone seems like phone can't connect to quad adrenaline …

Proceed at you own risk, this is not something that is approved by anyone as a safe to use device. Parts that are used to make this are only that, parts and we're not designed for this kind of project. For those that don't want to spend thousands on expensive units and don't quite trust china special sold at many places, you can make your own out of bottle jack. I've also tossed the idea of buying hydraulic cylinder type pump made for body work. It already has a hose that would be easy to adapt to fittings or just adapt right at the pump as it's threaded. But since I had this 4ton jack for last 10 years not doing much I decided to use it. Keep in mind no…

So I've been debating about making this thing and finally decided to do it. Had some extra time on my hands and after looking at whole bunch combined ideas here is mine. I had a set of 75hp injectors I got in 2014 that I used for about a year so roughly 7-8 k on them. They came poped at 310 bar and I just checked one of them and it's popping at 260 if I do it quick, meaning keep pumping pressure and it just goes pop pop pop few times a second, now if I go slow it'll pop at 290. The gauge I'm using is a cheaper china special, but it liquid filled. I'm going to check all of them here soon when I get more time just to compare. I also got a shim kit from dap that I'll play wi…

I been ignoring this for about a year now maybe even longer, just curious if anyone else has this? Its my 01 with about 350K on it. It rattles for maybe 2 - 3 seconds oil pressure builds up and its fine.

Hey guys, I've been fighting a heavy bucking and surging issue for some time now. My truck is essentially undriveable, and Id appreciate any insight on where to go from here. Symptoms: Ranging from light to heavy throttle input as long as the engine is under some load, it will develop a violent surge at about 35mph plus. It surges and bucks very badly and on my test drives within a couple miles of my house, its all I can do to nurse it home. It sounds like the footage youve seen of a WWII fighter getting shot down, when it starts to sputter before it catches fire. It idles just fine, and once I get it down to about 20mph it starts to behave again. It…

After 3 long weeks it looks like my replacement exhaust manifold has finally landed. I found this but just wanted to be sure this is correct for installation torque and bolting sequence.

02 ram 3500-6 speed manual 4x4. If the battery temp circuit is open will this prevent the PCM from charging/regulating? I checked ohms between C1 pin 4 and C3 pin 15 on the PCM and found this circuit to be open.

It rather suddenly became obvious I have a gear selector issue, very sloppy trying to select a gear. Any suggestions? I looked in the Parts diagrams, looks like perhaps a retainer fell off? No leaks. Bolt "#21" in diagram is there and tight. Photo of internal shift portion from Moses Ludel writeup. Is it possible/likely that clip he shows is my problem? KVID0021.mp4

I've done some research about adding a resistor to to the IAT connector as an MPG fooler. Is this an acceptable method? I wonder if it can affect anything in the engine when the outside temps are cold and the IAT is set at 143 degrees. After thinking about it for a while, I bet an arduino could be used to ramp up the IAT while monitoring the ECT. That could be an easy thing to do with a few relays and different resistors used to change the IAT. Say when you start the truck and it's cold out, a relay could close and send the actual IAT temp out. As the truck warms up, other relays could open/close and send out different resistor values. Any tho…

Hey everyone, I hope all is well. I currently have a Bosch alternator and even with the WT mod I am experiencing high AC ripple. I plan to replace the alternator and am wondering if I can replace it with a Denso unit as they seem to be more plentiful than the Bosch units. I also plan to keep my stock alternator and rebuild it with a new rectifier, bearings and brushes. Has anyone rebuilt their Bosch alternator? I'm curious if it is easy to do. I have found a replacement rectifier online so they are available. Thanks and I hope everyone has a happy Thanksgiving. L8tr d