2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

Black Friday pricing is now up on my website. Unfortunately, due to the state of this industry, this pricing will not be around for long. https://dynamictransparts.com/dynamic-built-transmissions/built-dodge-transmissions

Found this on YouTube this morning, usually just watch his videos for fun. But today I decided to look for a 47re specific one that he did and found this! Very informative video and quick tear down

@IBMobilethis question is for you. The solenoid you recommended (ss598) is a different style than the one you used. Does this matter? Seemed to work fine when I first installed then me wife took truck out of town and commented on how hard it was to start. Solenoid doesn’t work now. Any ideas? Did I just get the wrong part or...??

So I have been having some surging issues under light pedal. It will consistently do this on any program I have on my quadzila, but no issues when turned to factory? I just installed a timbo apps and when I had cover off there is a sticker on the VP44 stating remanufactured. I bought the pickup 4 years ago from original owner and he never mentioned that the injection pump was ever replaced. Did they come from the factory remanufactured? Just seeing if anyone has seen this sticker on a pump from the factory

My truck has been eating MAP sensors lately. I can't remeber how or when the the first of the last 3 failed but it seems to me it happened after another repair. This last one was working when I parked the truck Friday and replaced the master cylinder. Get that done and start the truck and the MAP is not working, complete with another p0237 code. No readingmfrom it on the scan gauge. The previous one failed when the VP went over Thanksgiving. I bought a couple cheap a member here found as a spare. 15 bucks so I had little faith in it working and it did not. The odd thingmI found on the truck was that I apparently some where in the past have swapped my IAT and MAP lo…

New to the site here, and I've combed through hours of posts, but wasn't able to find any thread that exactly described what I'm experiencing. I also tried everything suggested in the posts below but still haven't been able to resolve the issues. Truck was stock up until Sept 2020, except for: Straight Piped BHAF FASS 95 Upgrades done since Oct 2020: Built Towing Transmission Quadzilla Adrenaline ARP Head Studs Borg Warner K27 from Power Driven Diesel 7x.0085 Injectors (popped @ 300 bar) Crossover Tubes Issues: Transmission w…

What is involved in replacing the nv4500 with the 6 speed? I cant keep a 5 speed evidently, I believe they just skimp by on parts or something. The only other thing I can think of is I'm running the amsoil synthetic.

So I read this article and would like some input before I spend $40 for a genuine Bosch replacement: https://mopar1973man.com/cummins/articles.html/24-valve-2nd-generation_50/51_engine/59_fuel/bosch-vp44-injection-pump-overflow-valve-r19/ Symptoms At idle in park I maintain a steady ~18 PSI. Driving it can drop to ~11 PSI, but sometimes rises to nearly 20, doesn't seem to be directly load related - sometimes it is low going up a hill like the filters are plugged, but then sometimes the pressure is HIGHER going up hill (gentle rollers). This can be within a couple miles, steady interstate travel. Some times on LONG, flat interstate…

I have a 2001 Ram 2500 with just a little under 320,000 miles. When I bought the pickup last year I drove it home and it started doing the rapid torque converter cycling. When I got home I cleaned all the battery terminals. No help. I zip tied the ground wire to the frame of the alternator and it cured it. Then I was getting random dead pedals for about five seconds and I finally just got around to doing the ground relocation on the drivers side of the engine. I left the charge wire to the PDC because I’m not sure how to delete that (if anyone could give me input on that too that would be great). Now that I did the ground relocation I have intermittent dead pedals and tor…

Hi all, I need some guidance, but first my story how the problem came to be. The first part of September we went to the midwest (Iowa) from Utah with a 2700lb camper in the back. Truck was running fine. First stop in Sidney, Neraska I noticed what looked like a large wet spot on the drivers side rear wheel well cover. Looked like I ran through a puddle, but no rain or puddles insight. Checked under the hood and did not see any problem. Checked under the truck in the morning and no leaks or spots on the ground. Ok so far so good. Next stop in Lincoln, Nebraska and the wet spot had just about disappeared. Got to Altoona, Ia. and still ok. The weath…

Been having some trouble shifting gears lately. Leave out in the mornings and shifts fair to good. Get some heat in every thing and l have mash the pedal into the floor pretty good to shift. I replaced the oe master cylinder back 2008 but it was leaking by and creeping on me and then failed all together. That one was fun since l couldn't find any way to bleed it and didn't know any better. Did the best I could but still had some air in it. It took about 3 weeks of driving and a lot clutch pumping but finally settled out and has been working fine until a 3 or 4 months ago when this started. I had a replacement here and today would be good to swap it in. So goo…

I have a 99 2500 4x4. I just performed the W-T ground mod and now i have a flashing WTS light. Truck has brand new batteries, 2/0 battery cables from CE auto electric. Just don't know where to go. Any help is much appreciated.

So about this time last year I installed a Valair 13" Upgrade clutch supposed to be rate at 400HP and 900fts torque ( I dont think I'm there but I could be wrong ) and I had zero problems but maybe 2 months ago I went to pass a line of vehicles and bumped up the Quadzilla up romped on it and slip went the clutch. Now it will slip on any setting except stock when I get on it and progressively has gotten worse. So now I'm looking at going to a dual South Bend but before I drop a grand 1) Anyone know of anything I should try to get the current clutch to heal itself or so to speak cause I dont!? 2) I am thinking about doing the 1.375 input shaft upgrade, is it nece…

So I replaced trans, flywheel, clutch and pressure plate and while I was there I replaced the rear main seal. I noticed it leaking very little over the pasted week then I took it for 350 mile round trip and its leaking bad now. Got new seal and going to do it again, any tricks to the trade here? I know the front seal has a sleeve to install but nothing on the rear? I thought I would grease it up this time.

So I was messing with my scanner just figuring out how to use it more, it doesn’t have check engine light. Even though I do have a speed sensor code. Anyways I did an all module scan and this showed up...(along with 3 ABS codes)....Can’t seem to find anything on it. Does anyone have any clue what it means?

I kind of touched on this in another thread but can't remember which one or find it so here we go. Sorry for rehashing this. I did the basic W-T ground mod and installed a 150amp breaker between the alt. and passenger side battery. The breaker seemed to trip early (it was a cheapo from Amazon $12 made in china) but prior to the mod not once did it ever fry the 140amp OEM fuse which leads me to believe that the breaker is sub-par. So my question is: Which 150amp breakers are you all using with no problems? I have no tuner or major mods for that matter, basically stock truck, original alternator with about 148k on it. Need to get this done since it is…

Im sure this has been asked but I can't find a thread. I have an 01 2wd 7x.008 153°VCO injectors, BHAF, HX35W turbo, banks brake with 4" turbo back exhaust when towing 12k lbs with no tuner my EGTs are pushing 1300° on a long climb but stable. With my superchips tuner it's much higher, too high. I am trying to figure out what i can do to get these down, if not the truck has to go.

1998 1/2 5spd. I am doing the w-t ground mod. I dont understand why I need to remove the alternator charging wire going though the bundle to the pdc. Why would i not just leave it? I am doing this in hopes to fix my grounds to get rid of a dead pedal issue. So what am i missing?

So I know I’ve had this problem before and it just kind of went away. But it seems to have come back again. As you can see in the video it revs up and idles too high while in park, also does it in drive if I’m stopped for an extended time in traffic now. Any ideas? FullSizeRender.mov

Is there any logical reason why I can't install a filter in the return fuel line? My fuel supply line goes from fuel tank to Airdog (95 or 100?) then directly to VP44 and very happy with the way AD is plumbed and mounted.