2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

I kind of touched on this in another thread but can't remember which one or find it so here we go. Sorry for rehashing this. I did the basic W-T ground mod and installed a 150amp breaker between the alt. and passenger side battery. The breaker seemed to trip early (it was a cheapo from Amazon $12 made in china) but prior to the mod not once did it ever fry the 140amp OEM fuse which leads me to believe that the breaker is sub-par. So my question is: Which 150amp breakers are you all using with no problems? I have no tuner or major mods for that matter, basically stock truck, original alternator with about 148k on it. Need to get this done since it is…

Im sure this has been asked but I can't find a thread. I have an 01 2wd 7x.008 153°VCO injectors, BHAF, HX35W turbo, banks brake with 4" turbo back exhaust when towing 12k lbs with no tuner my EGTs are pushing 1300° on a long climb but stable. With my superchips tuner it's much higher, too high. I am trying to figure out what i can do to get these down, if not the truck has to go.

1998 1/2 5spd. I am doing the w-t ground mod. I dont understand why I need to remove the alternator charging wire going though the bundle to the pdc. Why would i not just leave it? I am doing this in hopes to fix my grounds to get rid of a dead pedal issue. So what am i missing?

So I know I’ve had this problem before and it just kind of went away. But it seems to have come back again. As you can see in the video it revs up and idles too high while in park, also does it in drive if I’m stopped for an extended time in traffic now. Any ideas? FullSizeRender.mov

Is there any logical reason why I can't install a filter in the return fuel line? My fuel supply line goes from fuel tank to Airdog (95 or 100?) then directly to VP44 and very happy with the way AD is plumbed and mounted.

I have searched some but maybe don't how to do it properly since I couldn't get answers I am looking for. Forgive me if I'm just not smart enough to get them. Anyway, I recently had codes 1693, 0500, 1694, 1698 pop up. I had not yet done the WT mod even though I have been trying to get it done for quite some time. Life gets in the way with some travel and serious AO health issues. Some of that relates to not having much strength or energy. The tach would drop out and come back for awhile and then drop again. Cleared codes and 1694 and 1698 came back. Cleared again and 1698 was back. Did the WT mods and put a fuse in the blue wire to PCM. I had checked AC v…

2001 Ram 2500 6 speed. 240K miles. Intake, Exhaust, Pacbrake PXRB, Bosch RV275 injectors 20K miles old, FASS 95 at 14/15 PSI. Re-man vp44 of unknown millage or manufacture. MoparMan high idle switch. No tune or engine other mods. Within the last 1000 miles I have noticed a new problem with my truck. With the exhaust brake active coming to a stop when I push in the clutch the engine will stall. Like the brake is backing up the engine too much. I don't think its actually the brake causing the problem though, just making it more apparent by stalling the engine. In my trouble shooting process I have found the symptoms depend on when the truck is rolling or not. It doesn'…

Hey everyone. I’m new here. Have always read Info on here but just joined. I bought a 99 2500 2wd to flip. It started as a side job a guy wanted a vp44 installed because he thought that was what was going on. Long story short put in pump and no start. Guy was over it and I bought the truck for cost of the pump. Talked to blue chip diesel and did there diagnostic test and lead to the ecm. Sent the ecm off and got it back. Still no start.

I knew this day would come. I checked this morning after a seeming fail on my way home last night, according to my guage. Bearing radial clearance test failed. I don't have a tuner in my truck at this point. I will likley put one in later. I was trying to address any and all actual harware issues first to get everything working as best as possible. It looks like @Mopar1973Man is happy with his HX35/40 Hybrid (60/60/12). Would it make sense for me to put one of these in my truck based on the assummption that I will eventually put a tuner in the truck. Is that a bolt in solution or is there some fancy footwork that would …

Yup. It finally happened to me. Dropped from 5th to 4th rolled up my power tried to shift to 5th again... NOPE so I'm stuck in 4th limped into Hoots Cafe in Whitebird, ID. Im glad my sockets with me. Quickly pulled the cup holder up. The the boots. Then the shift tower. Everything was good just jumped out of the gate. Push the center fork back to neutral. Reassembled. Took 20 minutes with basic tools. Now in Grangeville ID getting breakfast.

My truck has a two pillar pod, both egt and boost gauges are toast. In my new to the Cummin's world mind, I think I want EGT, fuel pressure and trans temp and boost as first gauges. My 2000 24v has a new Fass titanium, new injector pump, running Smarty #1. Would I be better off with the electronic reads it all or should I install all new mechanical gauges? I don't tow or beat my truck but I want it to live a long life. This is a daily driver which sees a couple miles of crappy roads then 90 miles of hiway 5-6 days a week. Advice from people with similar situations would be much appreciated! Much thanks for the forum and advice!

Does my one have a list of supplies needed to do this. I couldn’t find an actual materials list in the articles about this mod. Thanks.

Hi Everyone, I've got an 01 Drive-train that's doing a weird thing. First 5 or so seconds, the truck seems to idles a little high, and a little rough. Then it smooths out and sounds like its running fine, but it has to Tach reading. Completely drops to zero, this is consistent. Every time you shut the truck off and restart it, it does this. The tach even reads, while it does read, seemingly accurate. What else has me confused is when I plug the code reader in and go for a drive looking at live data, it also seems to report proper RPM. I did a cluster test and it didn't seem to have any issues, so I don't think it's a short with the gauge, the Ca…

Hello all. So thew truck runs pretty good but I know it's not at it'd potential. I want it to not smoke as much and tune it properly so if I'm driving nicely I can get good mpg but then have power when wanted or needed. Just bought it about 3 weeks ago. Here are the upgrades: stock turbo compounded with a bw s366 225 DAP injectors Hot Rod VP44 Air Dog 200 110# valve springs .93 fuel connecting tubes 5inch turbo back exhaust Quadzilla 4k Any and all suggestions are welcomed. At WOT this thing makes an insane amount of smoke even when its making boost. I don't think it makes enough boost though as …

Is there a fuse I can remove to keep from starting...or something else I can do to turn over the engine to circulate some oil prior to starting? Or maybe I don't need to do anything? Currently 1/2 tank of fuel, my game plan from VP44 back to fuel tank is to drain and flush, new filters and biocide I assume pretty dry inside engine is reason for asking. (Between Thanksgiving and Christmas have lots planned...additional fuel filter, flush cooling system, WT Mod, and updated radio) Thanks

1999 stock 24 valve Cummins. 2wd. Over 350k on it, when purchased in 2011 I was told some work had been on the transmission, but not sure what (it had 278k at that time). We live on good 'ole Monteagle mountain, and this truck's main purpose in life is hauling a horse trailer. I don't need anything fancy, just dependable. About a year ago, while hauling the horse trailer on the interstate it shifted funny a few times, and the engine felt like it got bogged down. No biggie, maybe bad fuel or something? Drove fine for months. Randomly, the odometer/speedometer, and port where my ScanGauge plugs in quit working About 6 months ago, the tru…

Hi all I'm new to the forum and this is my first cummins truck. 1999 3500 It's completely stock aside from the vp44 and my newly installed raptor FRRP 100gph lift pump. The vp44 isn't a hotrod as far as I know I believe it's a stock replacement, previous owner had it done. The truck runs fine at any speed, matter of fact it has more pulling power and better throttle response so I'm reluctant to say my VP is bad? My issue is it is very hard to start after installing my raptor. The morning previous to install, it started perfectly fine, fired extremely fast, got home from work did the install and it's been hard to start ever since. I have to give it some throttle otherwise…

I decided to take a crack at this just becuase my turbo failed and I love a good 3d puzzle. Please share any info you have that can: 1) teach me something 2) make the adventure easier Any and all fun turbo stories are welcome!!

So the truck came with a set of Rickson wheels 19.5" and a set of tires that were less than a year old. I liked the old forged-in-America wheels so I decided ot keep them on the truck. I have never had one of these trucks befoer this one so I have no comparative baseline on how it "should" run and drive. In LA these trucks are like hen's teeth and I have not found anyone near me that knows much abou them at all. My local dodge dealer is a waste of real estate and every time I've gone there they turn up their nose at my old truck and try to sell me a new truck :-) I couldn't even get a radiotor cap from that palce. After studdying this issue of …

Could I ask a huge favor from someone. I would like a picture of the inside of the gear case and where all the bolts are without the cam and pump gear in the way. My oil leak is on the rear side of the gear case and running down to the corner of the pan and blowing back. I'm looking at options to tighten all the bolts and see though. Or loosening all the bolts and separate a little and get a small bead of silicone behind the edge. Either way it leaking engine oil pretty good in 15 miles its got oil splattered all the way to the transfer case.