2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

Did a throttle chop as check gauges light came on voltage reading zero. Got to job site checked cables fuses restart truck and voltage reading well under 14 but not tripping check gauges light. Alternator has 334665 miles on it. Anything else to check before I replace it. If I do replace it should I keep it to have rebuilt. Or turn in as a core. I'm in Star idaho closest place to me is NAPA . Thanks guys.

Back in December my p/s fluid would foam over and while on the brakes the truck made a whining noise. I drained and refilled the fluid until it was much clearer and I haven’t had that problem since. My hope was it either was contaminated and or burnt out. Now I’m noticing a sort of soft brake pedal, if I push long and hard enough the pedal will just about hit the floor and when released it will return to normal position. I’m wondering if my hydroboost is bad or possible vac pump issue. Any help/suggestions is much appreciated. Looks like I’ll have a couple weeks of distancing from society and hopefully get this truck resolved. Thanks again.

Has anyone used or installed a DPS S300 Turbonator with the electronic control on a 2001 or 2002 Cummins? Just wondering if they are any good -- looks like an interesting concept : Electronic control VNT (exhaust brake built in).

OK gear heads! Same post different title, sorry for that but honestly I'd thought I'd get more than one response, (thanks by the way!) I understand if people have other things on their minds lately but I'm going to try again. Here's the deal, I just purchased this truck a few weeks ago, first dodge Ever, it has a "built" auto trans and the prior owner told me you need to hold the brakes and step up the idle when putting into gear first start of the day or it will stall the engine, said it's been like that ever since trans build. I liked the truck well enough to overlook so now I have to deal with. Once I go through the ritual and unfreeze or get trans fluid going…

Hi pleas help I have a 99 24 valve the tranny dose not go into over drive or lock up the converter I believe it will cruise at 50 to 45 mph at 2500 rpm which I don't like the od light on the shifter dose not work I checked the bulb which is good but there are many wiring gremlins in this truck anything is appreciated

Hey Guys, So my old group 27 batteries finally took a dump. I left the radio on in my truck for about 2 hours while I was loading up scrap, and it was enough that after starting the truck the batteries were just beyond this. Anyways, I did some quick looking and decided to upgrade to the famed Group31's. And the results are nothing less then amazing. So not only did the truck start up super fast, but even with the grids banging away the battery voltage went from 14.0 to 12.8V with the grids going off, and you don't even hear the change in the engine or the whine of the alternator, unlike with my old group27's Anyways here is how you do …

Help please! I’ve tried it all have no clue any more! 99 24 valve, starts fine, runs, rpm gauge not working, won’t go pass 1000-1500 rpm, guessing on that because no rpm. things I’ve done no stock lift pump has air dog new apps new crankcase sensor new cam sensor new fuel filters new(refurbish) ECM what happened Was driving and just wouldn’t go pass 1000 rpm, no tach, replace crankcase sensor, didn’t fix it, unplugged it, plugged it back in and it fixed it, worked for couple days, then same thing happened, went and got another sensor, replaced it, didn’t work, check the wires to the sensor to the ECM all good, and voltage…

Any ideas why the truck would run like this after replacing vac and power pumps? Video attached https://imgur.com/a/woPoAfy

I set out to change the pre lift pump filter today. Ordered a wix part# 33270 from Amazon. When I went to change it I found a mess from whom ever installed the FASS ddrp. They cut the original hard plastic line and slipped a loose fitting rubber line over it and installed the included filter. It had to have been sucking air in. Question is, could I just go get some of the correct size rubber line (for fuel of course) and go from the quick connect fitting on the ddrp to when the plastic line turns into the aluminum hard line and install my filter in this rubber line? Truck is down now so I need to get it fixed. See pics below. Just dodged…

As the title says I've got the alternator diode issue and while it's off I'd like to make a new wire from alternator to fuse box. The rubber loom is rotten and falling off causing it to short against spots. I'm not sure where I can find these exact lugs. Fitment in the alternator is pretty tight.

Hey guys, it’s been a while since posting but I have been checking in. Life is really getting in my way. I hope everyone is well. Now on to my issue. For the past few weeks my load (from OBDlink) at idle in gear has been very high. It’s higher now than when I’ve had my AC on previously. When at idle and in park it bounces between 0% and 4%. It’s when I put it in gear that it jumps up to above 15% (typically 18%-20%). I’ve also notice that my fuel rate has jumped to levels higher than when my AC was on (somewhere between 0.7 and 0.9 gal/hr). When I do have my AC on the load is well above 20% (around 24% +/-). Previously, with my AC on my max fuel rate …

Anyone know the timing advance on so and ho vp 44 pumps and the hot rod pumps Want to tune a quad adr thanx

Hey all. I bought my truck as a theft recovery, and so all the battery wires were cut up. I replaced the wires, and also the serpentine belt this evening due to a failing damper. I fired it up and let it idle, everything looked fine, and then like 5 min of idling and I started smelling an almost burnt plastic smell. Was looking at the alternator and could see smoke, so I killed the engine. The alternator was extremely hot! It looked like some of the solder or whatever holds the copper wires together, started boiling. Looked like tar. I wasn’t sure if it was motor oil that got splashed onto the alternator. Not sure. B it the smell was definitely not oil, and it definitely …

I this the correct terminal to use in the ecm on a 01 cummins? #20 deustch connector.

Any ideas why the truck would run like this after replacing vac and power pumps? Video attached <blockquote class="imgur-embed-pub" lang="en" data-id="a/woPoAfy"><a href="//imgur.com/a/woPoAfy"></a></blockquote><script async src="//s.imgur.com/min/embed.js" charset="utf-8"></script> https://imgur.com/a/woPoAfy **** why is this being such a ***** to upload a ******* video

Hey guys, I'd like to switch the axle ratio on my 02 3500 dually Dana 80 LSD Truck came from the factory with 3.54's but the previous owner changed it to 4.10's. I'd like to go back to 3.54's for better fuel econ and prefer to tow at highway speeds in 5th gear 1:1. By chance anyone have a set of decent used 3.54's? I'll need a 3.73 and lower LSD carrier too, since the carrier break for the 3.54's is 3.73 or lower. The LSD carrier for the 4.10's wont work with the 3.54's. Hoping someone out there has swapped out 3.54's and has the gears and 3.73 carrier laying around! Once I'm all setup I'll probably be looking…

Slightly new here but have looked around, yet still cant find an answer maybe yall could help. I have a 2000 24v that will run when doing the bule chip diesel hot wire to the vp44 test but wont run with the plug. Making me think Ecm. For some background the truck was originally a v10 model converted to diesel. The only part remaining from the gas version is the physical dash and dash harness(insturment cluster was swapped as well). The truck was throwing p1693 code when i had my cheap scanner hooked to it as well as the sending unit code. When i hooked up my nice snap on one it said there was no codes? Anyone have any ideas?

Right above the bell house omg on the trans and right about the heat exchanger looks like some oil seeping from some where 2001 24valve

Today i swapped my hy35 for a hx35. With the hy i was getting 27-28 psi max boost. After the hx35 swap I'm barely hitting 20 psi. I have a restricted boost fitting in it. No other changes were made to the truck. Does this seem about right or does the boost sound low? Ran out of time for any other checks today.

FSM says 156 in-lbs. I used a Napa filter and rubber gasket when I did my fluid change. It seems that the bottom of the pan is slightly damp in one section, so fluid is very slowly leaking in one area. Before taking it apart and redoing the gasket, how much more could I torque down the bolts to try to stop the leak? 5%? 10%?