2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain
This is a discussion forum of the 1998.5 to 2002 2nd Generation Dodge Ram Trucks with 5.9L Cummins 24 Valve Turbo Diesel power train and drive line system. This includes all sub-system including wiring, fuel, oil, exhaust, air, transmission, computers and sensors.
6,275 topics in this forum
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I’m having intermittent issues and not sure where to begin. First with what I know. After starting the truck, within a couple minutes, the tach becomes intermittent. It works, then won’t, so on and so on. While driving, it will stumble. Not all the time, and when it does, it does it like 2 or 3 times in a row. It seems like as soon as it’s at operating temperature, it runs fine. If it sits for a couple hours, it runs fine. In the past month, it’s shut off on me 3 times while driving. After it shuts off, it will crank but won’t fire. After it sits a minute or two, it fires and runs fine. Temperatures were in the teens when it happened, not sure if there…
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Hello all, Having some issues after the swap. Truck is a 99 manual and the new engine is 00. Truck was running fine before with the p-pump now it wont charge or tach. Original ecm, sensors, and harness being used. Wait to start light comes on like it should. Fuel pump will cycle on ignition then wont come back during cranking. Map, AIT, oil, crank, and cam sensors are all getting 4.9v. Wish it was easy to just delete the ecu. Any diagnosing methods I should be doing? Help is greatly appreciated.
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hello I have a 98.5 ram diesel which gave me dead pedal intermittent the last week just at start up, then run good all day. it might have been worse on cold mornings. now its staying dead pedal. I have codes p01688 p0743 p0463 p1693 I cleaned all the grounds I could find except the one behind the starter was so stuck, penetrating oil and all. im going to have to take off the starter to get it off and clean that connection. could it be fuel filter or weak lift pump? or all having to do with torque converter clutch solenoid ? thanks. any leads, wisdom, experience is much appreciated
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Adding a Transmission Drain Plug When you have the pan off you may want to install a drain plug in it. Parts needed: 1 M12 x 1.25 x 30mm drain plug 1 M12 x 1.25 nut 1 12mm ID plastic washer Paint (your choice type and color) Tools needed: Hammer Center punch Drill motor ½” drill bit Torque wrench 0-75 FT-LB or 0-300 IN-LB Socket to fit drain plug An automotive supply store like NAPA will have the M12 x 1.25 x 30mm drain plug, nut, and plastic washer. Using a strong (rare earth) magnet on the outside of the pan to hold the nut in place, you can find the a…
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- 657 views
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First time posting here but been lurking forever. I realized that there are more electrical gurus here after searching the posts, so here's my issue. And yes I'll be doing W-T's mod. My alternator is making a bunch of AC current after my grid heater relays stuck on last summer. I didn't replace the relays until this week so I didn't realize the ecm wasn't doing a preheat or fuel pump prime pre-start. I also remote start every morning so I didn't hear the fass fire off. So my questions. 1, I'm having my spare denso alternator rebuilt. But should I find a Bosch instead? They aren't subject to diode failure as easily. 2, Will the ecm continue to further…
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I have a fass 165 gph that I've had on my truck since 2014. Lately every other time I start my truck I have no fuel pressure and it stumbles. I replace the relay in the wiring harness but it does it again. What's weird is that the fuse isn't blowing but the relay is. Relays aren't cheap I need to figure this one out. Any ideas?
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I looked at my build sticker in the glove box for the rear end gear ratio and I noticed the rear axle states it's an "anti-spin" differential. In dodges terms is this the same as a posi traction or locker? Just curious. Thanks!
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So I found out my 2001's turbo is full of oil and not very happy so here's two options: I have a replacement hx35 to throw on Or A Smeding 62/64/14 I can throw on it. Truck has 100hp sticks, a Quadzilla, Airdog 150. What would your guy's recommendation be?
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In my search for a better alternator i came across a post by ilya5903 on Cumminsforum.com about using a 2001-03 5.9 Durango 160 amp alternator. Today i hit Pull-a-Part and lucked out. They had 2 Durangos and one was a clean 02 5.9 with the factory alternator. $22 + $7 core. Had it tested on the way home and it works. Swapped the pulley and 15 minutes later its on. Definitely puts out more at idle than the stock 136 amp as i can now have all 3 air compressors, a/c, high blower, headlights and stereo on with truck at 800rpm in drive and had 13.9 volts. 14.2 at idle in drive with everything off. Factory pn 56029915AA. https://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98-5-02-pow…
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Has problems when it's heated up or sometimes out of no where throttle body sensor goes to zero voltage randomly but then picks back up after hitting the gas a couple times also shuts off driving down the road when it's warmed up but starts back up right away lift pump is new so are the lines and the tps sensor is new also.I checked the fuel pressure and it's stays the same when driving. The rpms start jumping from 0 back to how much rpms you have back down to 0 then the truck dies but starts back up but then starts happening again
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Hello all, This year is not a good year for my 24v. I have been having some issues with the 47re in the truck. It would sometimes seem like it would skip 1st gear so this past weekend I changed out the Gov sensor and transducer, but now I have no 1st gear even if shifted manually. I adjusted both bands to spec and trans seems to just glide into other gears. The atf was dark and had dark sludge on the magnet, but nothing excessive. Have the clutches burnt out? I'm at the point I may trade it in on a 2008 Ram 2500 with 6.7 and g56.. What do you guys think? Tim
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I was driving to work this morning and the truck just shut off and will crank but not start. Fuel pressure is reading 15-17psi on gauge. Any help would be appreciated. I changed the VP 44 probably 50k ago.
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Anyone running a resonator and muffler on there truck? Can you post a sound video both outside and inside the cab? I've been told Donaldson 40 inch M085421 or a M085171 then a 51 inch Donaldson M090544 or a M101182, then a 51 inch Nelson and even a Walker 21471. Anyone running one of these? I've even heard of the MBRP Quiet tone.
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Hey guys, so ive done several good wiring go overs and I can't get my truck to start. I suspect now it could be the neutral safety switch, but I'm not sure at this point since the reverse lights come on when the truck is in reverse. I'm out of ideas here. EDIT: I pulled codes with the scan gauge and got po602, and po1689 Also can anyone tell me what this plug is for? I believe there is a purple and white wire on it. I think it's the CCD, but I don't remember now.
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Went to dealer had my 1998.5 Dodge Cummins auto transmission flashed for 3 cylinder idle. Doesn’t work. Plugged in diagnostic tester. Air temp 10f, coolant 10f, speed 0, TPS 0%. Only other things to check is to ensure pickup is in park or neutral and brake is not on. It’s in park and the brake light aren’t on. Anything to check with parking or brake? Is there anything else I can check? Also tried with parking brake on. Also did the APPS reset leaving batteries disconnected for an hour
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Long time reader first time poster. This is most likely my last resort since I've searched all I could to find out the issue. My truck has never boosted correctly since I got it. I'm running a V2 tune from on this forum and it's been great until I get to 22psi. Then that's all she's got. My boost gauge just sits there. And that's with my foot to the floor. Clamped the wastegate line and still nothing. Any insight would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!
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So I'm gonna be as thorough as I can, but sorry if I'm vauge.. Truck ran fine, had the Smarty on it, rolling coal...did some brakes and ball joints, let the truck down off the jack, cranked it and started white/blue smoking...dont really recall was kinda worried, shut it down, limped him home and parked. Later got it cranked, parked for months, drove it about 45 miles, lost compression in 3rd, downshifted and caught boost, got it where I was going, parked it again...didnt have the money to fool around with it... 8 months later....got batteries charged, oil filter, fuel filter, and air filter Was running and smoking...dash and all on, odometer reading 5…
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New APPS sensor installed now random Dead peddle 5.9 C. Could it be ecm , alternator, or ground issue.?
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Ok, so I was playing with quadzilla (going through settings and such), and decided to try my high idle again. Every time I've tried it in the past, it would shut the truck down, then the truck wouldn't start for about a minute. It would repeat this until I turned the setting off. I tried again today just to see,setting it at 10 seconds, and the truck started to idle up, but then died again. What's going on?
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