2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

Hello everyone, I need some help determining what is happening here. I’m supposed to be taking my truck to WY in November, but this is a problem. My truck has been running ok but it doesn’t get a lot of use these days. Over the summer, I barely started it so it had fuel in it from spring time. I tend to run 1oz/1gal of 2 cycle oil in the fuel. It is stock other than putting a different lift pump and fuel lines for the pump. It has started and ran ok cold. I’ve fooled with this just a bit over the last couple weekends. I got in it and have lots of bluish/white smoke, but only after past it being cold. Today I started it and it was runnin…

Ok Long story short, is still very long: I had my NV4500 transmission go down a few weeks back, in Casper WY. took is to Thomas Crawford auto repair. I had a very good experience . But now I've got issues. History: Took about week to get one sent to the shop in Wy, from Midwest transmission in zumbrota MN which isn't far from where I live. The repair shop and I decided to upgrade to the 1 3/8th input shaft,plus all the other updates that Midwest Transmission and gear, does to these trans when rebuilding them. For the clutch, I opted for the SBDD and new hydrolics. Hoped this would work better with my towing needs. Finally , The installer p…

I have read the FSM for changing out the center bearing on my 2-piece driveshaft, and looked in the Parts List in the Articles section (which is for 2001/2002). Part # listed is: 04773014. When I go to Rock Auto that part number isn't listed for 2001 models, just 2002 models. For both years, they list options with two different diameters (even when I've selected Diesel and Auto, etc.) 1.5748" and 1.3780". Is there a good way to determine which I need without removing the clamp for the rubber boot and putting calipers on the shaft? EDIT: The difference is in the Wheelbase. If you have a 138" wheelbase (Quadcab, shortbed), you get the 1.3780" bearing. If…

Hello. Just got a package from Vulcan Performance. 1/2" big lige kit for my 98.5 24v. I got the 90 degree fittings in both ends, vp44 end has tapped port for fuel pressure sensor. That thread shoud be 1/8 npt right?? Was wondering what that one fitting is in the picture, the one with plastic cap on! It says 1/8 bsp in the cap. I was remembering that those two have different angle in threads. So can I put a needle valve directly to that 90 degree fitting closest to vp44?? I have also 18" long grease gun hose to get the sender away from vp. Can you give me some ideas to assemble the kit? Thanks and greetings from Finland!

I am ordering a rental Smarty and high idle switch from DAP later today. Sole purpose is to enable factory high idle. It's my understanding that all i need to do is install any Smarty tune then return the truck to stock tune and I'm good to go. Is this correct?

Thanks to this forum, I have heard about the thee cylinder high for very cold days. However, I have never experienced this occurrence until last week during an overnight low of 20 degrees at my property near Baker City, OR. I fired up the truck, turned on the exhaust brake, and went inside. A couple of minutes later I heard the engine slowly increase in RPM. Then all of a sudden it started making such a wild clatter that I thought I was going to have to shoot it and put it out of its misery. After thinking about this for a couple of minutes, I realized that this must be the three cylinder high idle feature. I touched the throttle and the engine went back to a norma…

This truck isn’t my daily so it sits days at a time. I inherited a 99 Cummins with issues and have been working through them. Random no start, replaced cps, problem fixed. Random loss of tach and acceleration, replace apps, problem solved. Then one day I’m driving and the trans goes into limp mode, I don’t have time to deal with it so I park it for a couple weeks. When I go to pull it in i can manually put it in first but if I just use drive it’s still in limp mode. The alternator is also not charging now. For whatever reason neither of my scan tools (mx808, Verdict) can communicate with the transmission. However I can see the ECM and I have code p1693. I check power and …

Hello everyone, been quite a while since I have been on the site. Mostly just life dictating where my time is to be spent. With that said though, I have come to ask for the wisdom you guys have and get a little guidance on what I hope and believe to be a small issue. I literally drive my 99 a couple times a month at best, maybe 5-6 times startup and move somethings around on the property. So maybe a month ago I started it up to move a trailer and immediately Knew I had a busted brake line. No big deal, ordered a new set, waited to have time to do it and repaired them. Fast forward to Tuesday and I decided to get it out for a little drive to really ch…

I have an 01 2500 I’m having an issue at idle, it sounds like it has a slight lope. I can see the variation in rpm on the dash and on my display for my programmer. It will only do it if I’m sitting in park. If I have it in gear it will not happen. It started last week. I just changed the fuel filter yesterday and dumped in a good amount of diesel Kleen. My fuel pressure doesn’t show any drop when it lopes. I have my sensor at the bottom of the fuel housing . It stays at 18psi. It will also lose prime if it’s parked up hill with the engine above the fuel tank ,but it has to sit for more than 8 hours before it loses prime. So I just back in my driveway ,and have no iss…

My stock alternator is finally starting to go south and i have been looking at replacing it with a higher amp part. Anyone have any 1st hand experience with the Mechman 320 amp alternators? Its expensive at $500 with a 2 year warranty. They have a 240 amp alt for $400 but with my stereo and all the other electric crap I've added the 320 fits my needs better.

I've been loosing prime lately. * Park nose downhill, starts fine - uphill, hard to start * Pressurized the return lines from tank filler neck, no fuel leaks visible (did hear a hiss from the top of fuel module - guessing take vent) * Checked all inbound and return connections, everything is dry (replaced sealing rings/grommets for banjo fitting in back of head and tee 10 months ago) * Oil level is fine So at this point I feel like all external fuel lines/connections are sound. I drive like an old man most of the time. However the other night, I turned the quad up a little and got on it for a few seconds. The n…

Hi folks, I am looking to tap into the tranny oil on my 98.5 47RE transmission. I am unsure where to thread in the gauge temperature probe. I would rather not be reading oil temps after it has been though the cooler and is re-entering the tranny. I was thinking it would be better to read the hot oil as it exits the tranny. No? I was under the truck today looking around for a test port plug. On the RH side I see these two plugs as shown in the photo. Am I even on the right track here? If so, which one is preferred? Thanks, Keith.

Anybody know where to get dust shields for a 1999 3500? None of the auto parts stores carry them. Also checked Dorman, Summit, and Amazon. No luck. I'd think somebody has to offer them.

Unfortunately I found this code today while doing my normal checkup on my truck. I have a fuel pressure gauge in the mail right now and should be here middle of the week. And I am installing a fass 150 GPh pump hopefully tomm afternoon if all goes well.Could the wiring on top of the vp44 be shorted and throwing the code? Take it out and look at the wiring? I'm pretty good at saudering is this a job I can do if I see the problem or is there another quicker way to test the IP? Im new to this forum all advice is greatly appreciated thanks ahead of time!

So the other day I made myself a switch panel. Gotta love 3d printing. One of the switches is a torque converter lockup switch Welp, it was getting dark and I tapped into the wrong line. I tapped into the apps wire. Oopsies. Orange and dark blue vs orange and black when it was starting to get dark out Ended up running it on my commute to work today, about a 30 minute drive. Surprisingly, the switch worked, just not as a lockup switch Turns out if you ground the apps wire, the truck will run properly, but the torque converter will hold whatever condition it was in when you flipped the switch So if you flip it while it'…

Have trouble getting my old 2001 Cummins work truck to run. Truck ran great but was leaking fuel from drain plug on side of the fuel filter housing, so i changed it out. Truck was hard to start, then would run, but would die if i put it in gear. Did this acouple of times, then bucked and saw big cloud of grey smoke come out of tail pipe. Now truck is in what seems to be limp mode( iknow these older trucks dont have them) but truck will not go over 2000 rpm. Theres no more smoke at all, just has no power ,Thought maybe i had air in the fuel lines so ive tried first with the lift pump valve , and then cracked the injector lines, still nothing has changed. Totally stumped.

Any advice - just thinking of doing it - just from what I have read.My head was replaced 1 yr back and decked and also a new gaskett.

Hello folks, I browsed search bars and had some questions. I see there are some pre built tunes for different combos. I am going to be installing 362/475 compounds and a set of 150hp injectors, I see the different injector set ups but nothing to plentiful for a compound set up? Any direction or input would be great!

First, my question. I have her all torn down to the point where I just have to remove the timing cover. Fingers crossed no grooves on crank. 222K on the clock. I bought a cummins seal at the dealer. Says cummins on the part. Question..... which way is OUT? Logic tells me this side should face INWARD towards the crank: And this side OUTWARD facing away from the crank: Reasoning, the second picture has a rotational marker. when facing you it is clockwise. when facing the front of the truck, the crank turns clockwise. Why am I asking? bc the plastic alignment piece is conical (cone sha…

Hey Everyone, Currently in the market to lift my truck to get a little more clearance and also to put larger wheels on. I went to my local store and they’re pushing a rough country 3” lift, which replaces 4 control arms and the other option I was interested in was the skyjacker 2.5” lift with only 2 control arms being replaced. I’ve heard negative things about rough country, but I can’t find any substantial evidence online besides them being on the cheaper side of lifts. Does anyone have any experiences? Additionally, with this lift I will add a dual steering stabilizer and a steering gearbox brace to try to correct for a drift at 70m…