2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

Hey guys looks like I fried my trans this weekend coming back from a great camping trip. I’m looking at rebuilding the transmission with the help of a good friend and certified tech. My question is I’m not sure how much power I’m pushing and how much I should build the trans. I do not plan to add any more power to the truck than what I have now. If any maybe 200hp injectors instead of my 125s. I have been looking at the ATS master overhaul kit or a suncoast category 2 kit. Anybody have info on either of these kits or know of a better kit?

Hey there guys new to the site seeking some help. So truck runs and drives but will randomly die or stumble and pick back up it has a brand new air dog lift pump in it and the VP44 is a year old when it does sometimes shuts off or resets the radio, bad ECM? This is on a 98.5

Has anyone cryo'd their input shaft? I'm sure this is a cheaper alternative to billet but someone mentioned it and I'm curious.

Just curious, but what would happen if one were to bypass the ECM and install a switch to turn on the fuel pump? Mine works fine, but I was always curious about it.

So this has been an on going issue for quite some time and have hit a road block, under heavy engine load ONLY with tuner turned up it will spit/sputter best way I can explain it is it sounds like I'm bouncing rev limiter, within the last 8k miles I put on a fass pump new vp44 and a revmax trans ( trans was slipping and thought that was the problem spitting and sputtering at 2700 rpms) now she spits and sputters at all different times based on current speed engine load tps and level of tune. I've checked fuel pressure 17 at idle /14 at WOT /, less than .075v of ac noise in alt. Have a p1693 in the pcm that stays after cleared and p1475 witch has not come back yet. tps se…

What could be a possible cause of a long crank when the motor is hot? Starts great when cold Fuel pressure constant 17 psi Cranks great Thanks in advance I won't have internet access till first of the week

Hi guys So I think its time for some new injectors, truck has a pretty decent knock than sounds like all the injector knock videos on you tube. The stock ones have 253000 miles on them so I'm sure the pop pressure is pretty low. From my reading on here it sounds like maybe 100-150k mile per set give or take. So my question is. With a mostly stock truck would you guys recommend RV 275s or the DAP 7V.008 50 HP set or something completely different. Some day I would like to add some HP but nothing too crazy for the time being anyway. They are pretty similar in cost so looking for advise/experiences for other users. 98.5 Standard Cab with lots o…

would happen to know of an accurate parts house part# for the front out put shaft seal for the NP 241 DLD ? 2002 model year. mine started puking this morning on my drive into work, and most local parts house dont have a clue, and i can not locate an accurate cross reference.

Hey there, I have a 2000 Cummins that I've been building for about 7months. I put a new cab on it and dash. The dash is a 98. I've got everything hooked up but when I turn the key to start it, I'm not getting any dummy lights, check engine lights, or even an odometer. The backlights work and all the guages seem to twitch/reset. Anyone have any info on what could cause this? Dead/low batteries? Grounds? Thanks guys.

So I thought I would pose a question today, since this is something I’ve been dealing with all day. What exactly does the offset key do in regards to timing? I’ve searched the inter webs and I can’t find anything more than a generic, “It works with timing the pump”, or “The key has to be calibrated to each pump”. What does it do? Is there a hidden ignition pickup or sensor in the gear cover that reads the key? Reason I’m asking is because my key is crushed (My F-up). I think at some point between 1998.5-2002, Dodge took either the crank or cam sensor out of the truck when built. I have an 01, and it only has one of those sensors. I’m wondering if the key is irrelevant on …

What are these rubber grommets that came with the new Fel-Pro gasket for the tappet cover? Existing bolts only have a sealing washer?

So do you have to align the rear main housing?? I have a seal and speedy sleeve for the rear main, so I will install after housing is on. I also have the seal/sleeve install tool. The housing will have new gasket and I'll also add some loctite 515 on that and torque to ___??? I will also be doing pil pan gasket. I assume it's better to install housing first with out Goop on the bottom, then remove oil pan and do gasket etc there... Please advise!! Sorry need to get this done pretty quick and want getting any quick responses on my build thread.

Hey does anyone know what the little t style valve is below the vp44 pump? 01 24 valve auto...it’s just a little brass t style

Good morning all, First time on this forum... I get a P1291 OBD readout from my '99 Cummins 24V. Where can I find out what that readout means ??!

I finally got started on this in earnest today. Did a little on it Monday pm. Then today after the morning mist died away and I got the doctors appointment out of the way the fun began. Itwent pretty well. Not one ceased bolt. They all came out nicely. Made this far today. My helper. The offending leak. The oil is from some bad pouring out of the gallon jug. Now a couple questions. Those metal strips between the pairs bolts at the front and rear of the exhaust manifold, are they necessary to reinstall? I thought they were under the bolt heads until I destroyed them all and realized they were over the bolts. They appear to keep…

I just replaced the injection pump, the fass lift pump is working good, the pump is getting plenty of fuel. But I cant get it to run, it will start with ether but wont stay running. I have primed the pump and bled the filter housing getting the air out. Please help If you can

So when I was checking my transmission the other day for anymore leaks I left the truck running. As I could hear a knock as my head got near the bottom of the truck I could hear a knock. Not like a rod knock not really sure what it was. I could hear it on the driver and passenger side. Couldn't hear anything up top. Is this normal? I have never paid attention or been under one while it was running.

I got a leak at the transmission line coming off the transmission line right at the fitting. I am assuming it has a oring at the fitting. Can I replace just the oring or the fitting? Is thier a c clip holding it on like on some smaller cars? Or does it just unscrew and the whole line come off? Is this part of the cooler or what is this thing?

Anybody here have any tricks to getting the VP44 out of the back of the case? Trying to get the pushrod cover gasket replaced. I have removed everything including the nut and lock washer on the end of the pump shaft and 4 nuts on the pump. TDC is set but that o ring is being a mother! I don’t really want to beat on it to get it out, and prying does little but separate it just a hair on the lower driver side (Only place I can get some leverage). Truck has almost 300k on the Odo, but the pump has been replaced at least once. That O ring in there is really on there good. Any ideas?

These ford seals may or may not work with sertain valve springs, be sure to measure all Id/od before committing. So I'm in process of figuring out why some of my seals are tore/smashed. Finding out that new style seals 03 and up may work on our 2nd gen. They are held in place by spring and can't come up from too much boost etc. I've spoken with https://ussealparts.com and they have both styles at great prices, although top hat style is listed for 03 and newer. The difference I believe is in ID where it slides over guide, sounds like top hat is slightly bigger but that should not affect the sealing capabilities as valve still same diameter. I ordered both style…