2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

I will be installing my edge comp tonight and then next week it is time to go Elk Hunting. I've pulled my trailer plenty of times with my truck but this will be the first time with the comp installed. Is there any wisdom that you all have learned that you would like to pass along. I have read through the literature that came with the comp, but what setting do you prefer? I am not looking for smoke and squealing tires, but I would like the power when towing an mileage when not towing. any advice would be great. Thanks,

Hey Can someone give me a basic overview of how a TC works and what 'TC lockup' means ? any links or basic 101 info ? I need a 'Diesel Guides for Dummies' thx

Ok guys and gals this is my first post here and i feel like im out of options. I know mopar man is the man so figured i would try here. I have spent over $4800 on this one problem and the Dodge dealer or local shops cannot figure out the problem. The truck has been like this for 3 years and im about to just part it out LOL. Here is the problem. The truck starts and runs fine when u first fire it up. It idles like it is supposed to until it gets to operating temps. Once it gets to normal temp it starts to "miss" at idle unless i keep the RPM at 1500 or higher. Once it misses the check engine light comes on and puts truck in limp mode. I can pull over, clear the codes with …

So I haven't driven my my pickup in a month and a half and it was gelled up when I parked it but I put a bunch of treatment in it before I parked it and ran it for a bit and then parked it... Yesterday I put a new fuel filter in bumped the key to cycle lift pump to fill the fuel filter housing... When I did this I heard the lift pump running but no fuel was being pumped it was about 20 degrees yesterday.... The pump is only like 2 years old...has anyone had the pump run but not move fuel before or do you think it might just be gel in the lines

So 2 days ago, I disconnected my grid heaters after testing ac noise. Which was .034 after using them all winter. Now the wait to start comes on like normal, I turn truck over it's barely stars and then dies.so I turn it over again, get it to idle, and its puffying out white and blue smoke like a train from exhaust. Temperature was 36 at 7am when I started it. I disconnected grid heaters at battery like it was suggested so as to not throw codes. I feel like I should just reconnect the grids back up, i haven't replaced a alternator yet since i have had the truck for 6years. When i use them truck fires up first crank with just a haze of blue …

So last week my clutch went out and so I bought a new clutch for the truck (Southbend Single Disk Feramic clutch if anyone is wondering) and I threw everything onto the truck up until reinstallilng the transmission itself. Just got done packing the throwout bearing and input shaft (high temp wheel bearing grease) and I realized the clutch is in the truck and everything already and I don't want to take it out again to get greases in the splines since I was told there needs to be grease in the splines of the input shaft and to use the clutch to spread it in the splines and I assume get some in the splines of the clutch as well. Make sense? I hope it does because my question…

I am going to be doing a lot of driving after I get out of training this next year... and I am thinking of ways to reduce my fuel costs other than buying a small car. I was looking at these systems, or building my own. http://mycngguy.com/product-category/diesel-bi-fuel-systems

So this morning I started the truck and drove to class and everything was normal. Get out of class 2hrs later and go to start the truck and as soon as I do I know something isn’t right. Truck had a miss and. Is smoking white haze pretty bad. Whole engine is shaking and engine is missing sounds like. No knocking or anything like that. Injectors are only a year old. What would cause it to just go bad while sitting for a couple hours? Had the truck towed to my apt and am going to swap in my stock injectors once I get time (currently pouring cold rain) and hopefully that fixes the issue

I have an '01 with a vanaaken chip on it, was on truck when I bought it in '05. It has a Fass DDRP lift pump(second one in three years)that is a year old. Just put new ball and spring in pump.Has always had good pressure until recently. My question is does anyone know if this chip has had problems like developing a glitch that could cause problems with lift pump? CPC CAN-bus pump controller part#CPC isb215-235 ser#16050 card#D-500 are off of the box Can't find anything on them or about them,ant help would be greatly appreciated.

Hello everyone I am debating if I should junk my nv6500 and get a 5 speed nv4500HD. Can this be done on a 99 2500 4x4? Has anyone done or heard of this being done?

I would like recommendations for some upgrades. Now that I have my quadzilla and the exhaust fell apart yesterday, I would like to upgrade everything from the tailpipe to and including the turbo. Plans include pulling the occasional 10k pound trailer (rare) and my daily driver. I do NOT want a loud exhaust at idle or old-man cruising. Budget for turbo and exhaust is in the $1500 range, though less is better! 409SS exhaust preferred due to lots of salty roads where I live. Currently have HY35. Stock injectors, am certainly interested in some upgrades nozzles in the future - like around Christmas time.

I have a lift pump issue I am chasing. Now before you tell me Raptor is junk, get a FASS I switched to my spare pump today and still the same symptoms so I'm ruling the pump out for now. Most of the time when cold I'll key on, hear the 1sec pump run and away we go as normal. Pump always holds 18 psi once it's running. When the truck is warmed up and I shut it off for a few mins. and go to restart, most of the time I hear a clunk, clunk, clunk from the LP. After that sometimes it will run and sometimes not. I usually bump the starter until it does run and then start. Once running it never shuts off and hold good pressure. What makes it hard to diagnose is that it does not …

The other day I smelled a strong smell of diesel fuel and I pulled the truck over. When I looked underneath the truck there were over a dozen driplets dripping off the driver's side frame rail. The frame rail was completely wet. Diesel was also dripping off the transfer case skid plate. I recently installed a Fuel Boss fuel system on my truck. My first thought was maybe one of the new rubber hoses chafed on something, even though I was extremely careful on installation. I determined the leak was between the tank and the frame rail. After several drips of diesel fuel on my face, trying to peek in the gap between the frame and the tank. Since I was on a road trip an…

Hey guys, new on this forum, came across it at dodge cummins forum. I have an 01 with 5" exhaust, air intake, 150 injectors, edge juice with hot unlock, and an Airdog 165 on its way. This truck came with an inline pump plus it still has factory one hooked up, ran about 23 lbs pressure. Few weeks ago, the inline pump went and disabled the factory pump too. I drove the truck for about 2.5 miles with 0 fuel pressure to get home, where I disconnected the aux pump and got factory one running. Truck ran fine then with 15 lbs as long as you kept the foot out of her. Couple days ago, truck started stalling when you would go from forward to reverse, then got worse and would stall …

Anybody know how many hours are charged for compression test. I am thinking if it to high might buy my own gauge and do it my self, course I have no idea what one even looks like.

Does anybody know the voltage when starting .When I turn the switch to on I m picking up 12 volts for 2 seconds & then it drops to 8 volts? Then when I turn the switch to start & let go I get 12 volts for 25 seconds then voltage drops to 8 volts? Why does it drop to 8 you would think it should drop to 0 volts.These test are done at the transfer pump connector.

Upfront: I apologize for the length but I am exhausted. I am nearly convinced my 99 is too old for parts support, or I’m the ONLY one to experience a FAILED 98.5-2002 ECM. I have dedicated days and nights searching the Internet for a REBUILDER with phone follow-ups. The Internet is abound with enticing websites, pictures of pristine Integrated Circuit Boards, immaculate state-of-art facilities, complete with "experts" in uniform lab coats, headgear, and nitrate gloves peering into high powered microscopes - methodically examining/testing every component to exacting standards. Each facility promises the "perfect", “tested under all conditions”, "sleep well a…

Well I notice after changing my oil 2 weeks go that I had not had to add any which is unusual since I have a leaky rear main seal. Today I check the oil and sure enough now I have more oil. Took the valve cover off and ran engine. Sure enough there is fuel sitting around no 2 and when shut it off and look back there is nothing there. What ever is there has gone back down the between the injector and the bore and I think I see air bubbles around no 3.. So I restarted the engine and sure enough there is air bubbles and fuel around no 3 and 4. The best I can see no 1, 5, and 6 are fine. I stuck a q tip at the bore of all of them and came back with oil on 1,5,6 and fuel aroun…

It was time to fix some of my minor boost leaks and whistling sounds coming from the old manifold gaskets. So since Lindy wasn't busy and the gasket where their at work why not? So I got a nice dry spot to work inside and all the tools I could ever want. So I will tell you that you want to remove all the injector lines. The fuel filter has to come off (if you still have the stock fuel filter). APPS sensor has to be removed and the intake horn and grid heater of course. Take a nice sharp puddy knife and start scrapping off the old gasket. It will be baked on so take your time. Then once cleaned up I put a very fine layer of black silicone on both sides o…

what's the best way to drain the tranny oil,if I pull the pan I only get 3 to 4 litres.