2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

I didn't know how to add to @smokeythedodge thread he has already made so here we go. Please move where needed if required. I figured I could post some helpful part numbers/info along for those looking to replace a (2002) Dana 80 pinion seal and/or pinion yoke. Sometimes obtaining part numbers can be annoying and just plain difficult. I replaced my seal due it starting to leak more as than it had. Started leaking then stopped for awhile and now just started again so I bit the bullet and dove in for repairs. I have a *flanged yoke* aside from @smokeythedodge non-flanged yoke in his thread. I have attached pictures of parts/part numbers and in…

02 3500 qc 6 speed dana 80.The factory detail sheet for my truck says my dana 80 is 3.55. In 5th gear truck maxes out at the tach redline just above 70 mph. I havent yet tried max top speed in 6th gear.Question for you guys running a 6 speed with 4.11's. What is your top speed in 5th gear? I'm actually curious if previous owners may have swapped in 4.11 gears on my axle. I've never driven both ratios side by side so I'm curious to know the actual difference.Or how about anyone running a confirmed 3.55? Tops speed in 5th?For one thing it's amazing to me that I can putz around town doing 35mph in 5th gear no problem without lugging/shuddering.Thanks

Little story here just in case anyone is wondering if they should buy anything from DAP. I bought a set of injectors last spring because my copper washers were leaking compression back into the fuel tank and I figured at 180k with the injectors out I might as well throw in a new set. For 400 bucks I didn't have much to loose. Immediately I could tell the motor was much quieter and it had a ton more power. (Oh still getting 21+ mpg too) Within the last month or two I have developed a slight miss in the #3 injector which is progressively getting worse. I pulled it apart and found the pintle wasn't moving up and down easily even after cleaning thoroughly. I called Jacob and …

EVERY $5.00 SPENT ON ANY GEAR BELOW WILL GET YOU ENTERED INTO A GIVEAWAY FOR ONE (1) OF THE FOLLOWING ITEMS: 1. 6.7L Nozzles up to 300% with free install, balance, and flowsheet 2. DAP Screaming Eagle SX-E Turbo up to 72mm with turbine housing 3. Dodge 5.9L Cummins DAP Reman 50hp or 100hp Injectors 4. Quadzilla Adrenaline for iPhone or Android, Valve Springs, and Up to 7x.014 injectors 5. 3k/4k or 5k Governor spring kit, Delivery Valves, AFC Kit, Valve Springs and Retainers, and up to 5x.018 Injectors Save up to 20% off DAP Products! Overstock Clearance List over …

It’s time to replace the VP44 on my 01 HO 6 speed. I’ve been doing a lot of research on different pumps and suppliers. I’m taking the advice of Mopar Man and have decided to go with a DAP remanded pump. my question is are the “Hot Rod” pumps worth the extra coin? I will be upgrading my injections to 7x.010’s from DAP at the same time. I do not have any tuners on the truck.

So I've bought a set of sac 7x.011 dap nozzles 7 months ago, had them sent to local injector shop, right off the bat they said they look cheaper(they are by a bit), and the spray angle is wider. Dap claims there 225 hp injectors. They seem to not be much better than the 120s from ii I had on before, maybe got a little more power, a nasty haze at idle and white cruising. On top of that comes out more white ish black than just black on take off. That being said I'm interested in the weston 6x.013s and wanted to see how good they are and if they are as dirty. Let me know what ya think. Thanks

I have recently been offered a set of 125 Hp DAP Performance Injectors at a good price. I have a 2000, 3500, 4wd, auto Ram with 330K miles. I am looking to get a bit more power when towing and generally replace the likely, worn out/tired original stock injectors. I know they are not Bosch, but some people have given these good marks. Does anyone here have any experience with DAP Performance Injectors, 125 Hp or other, and would these injectors be appropriate for what I am trying to accomplish with my rig. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Sorry, I forgot to mention that the injectors I am considering are DAP 125HP Performance Injectors 8x0.009 VCO- VP8X9VCO125

Hello all im inquiring to figure out the differences in dash harness's. I have a p56045364ai in my truck. Its a larmine quad cab 2002 24v 6 speed. The brake controller burnt up internally and shorted a whole mess of wires apparently according to the previous owner. So i pulled the whole dash apart to replace this thing. I have a harness i thought would work but it doesnt. I can however rob it of the circuts i need such as the brake circut that runs up to the heater control and wherever else. Sounds like a great time doesnt it. So that being said i did some searching and found a harness that appears to be identical. The part numer on it is p56045364AG the last letter is di…

“CRUISE” Indicator light in dash is defective. Manual indicates it’s a PC74 Bulb. However, if I’m going in to replace 1, I’d like to swap all to LED, if that’s possible, since all my other lights are LED. I thought I’d read discussion on doing this, but searches revealed nothing. Thanks

hi i have a 2000 dodge ram 3500 24v cummins. just recently all the dash lights and gauges power up on there own, like the ignition was turned on but the key was in the off position. i could tilt the steering wheel back and fourth this would make the powed turn off. i started the engine and it would not turn off until i tilted the steering wheel. the truck has higher miles so i replaced the ignition switch hoping that was the issue, but the issue came back tonight. also when you shut the passenger side door kinda hard it would make the dash and gauges power on. i figured i would run it by you and see what you thought. thanks in advance

this data was taken a little while ago...the out door temp was ~24f. the truck was already warm and i drove approx 5.25miles...the section in yellow that says "in 4th" or what ever was pedal to the floor...i also notice that the map starts at ~14.7. tell me what you think. highway 24f.xls

so i'm looking for the data link for cummins insite. i think dodges before 2005 have a 3 pin deutsch connector somewhere in the front of the engine according to cummins quickserve website but it doesnt specify exactly where. the pins 02, 12, and 42 coming off the ecm are supposed to be the wires i need but i dont see them coming out of the wire loom anywhere. any ideas?

When I'm at about a half tank of fuel my fuel tank lines or Raptor lift pump hoots at me. I hear it more when running uphill or slosh the tank on rough grades. When this sound occurs I can watch my fuel pressure drop suddenly too.I think it is the DS sloshing around and loosing its seal and suck air. Not sure about this but it stops when the tank is full.I was thinking about a billet tank sump so the L/P is somewhat gravity fed. However, DOT has a rule that a tank sump is illegal incase of a fires in a wreck.Anyone know about this? I understand my insurance could decline coverage if they found out.

If everything surrounding the DDRP is stock, is it limiting the DDRP/fuel pressure? Would it be beneficial to increase fuel line size? And what other benefit that would also be beneficial when I upgrade from the DDRP to either a more powerful mechanical or electric pump should I do?

Saturday had a little trouble getting the truck to start. Checked for codes with my handy dandy DRB3 and sure enough crank position sensor showed up . Ordered 1 and it will be in tommorow afternoon at the local dealer. Figured I was okay to run some errands with it today...not so much. Quit all together at a local muffler shop...grrrr. Figured might as well get it floated home, no problem. Home in the yard I do a bit of diagnosis and think it strange that I have 1 lb fuel pressure. So I use a piece of harness and jump the pump direct...no sound. Pull the pump and find the wires burnt right off at the pump. Must have chafed or something but I dont know why. Nothi…

I may have a problem with my lp or fpg not sure. Yesterday I started my Cummins and noticed that the dash buzzer and wait to start light did not come on. The truck had been sitting for eight days without starting. After starting I noticed the fp fluctuated between 28 and 20 several times while at idle. Once driving it fluctuated between 18 and 24. The only thing I have done was changed the fuel filter when I serviced the truck about fifty miles ago. I installed a Donaldson ff. I believe I read that the Donaldson ff was 10 micro. I cant figure this deal out. Anyone had this problem before?

My airdog 100 bit the big one yesterday, I had blown a fuse last week( 20 amp )and sicne then had to put 30'S to keep it going. Well 30's wont keep it going anymore. I belive it is something in elec. motor like bearing or something along those lines. Anyway I got to thinking, I shimmed the spring about 5 months ago to get more fuel pressure on the gauge 17 lbs. Could I be overworking my little 100, I have the 150 draw straw in tank. Well I ordered a 150 pump today, I just cant be down that long untill I get it back. Just thinking out loud, what do yall think?Oh and I was told today that the new pumps come with quick connects instead of the push on connects.

Dead as a doornail. Wifee took it to the dump last. Haven't needed in in 3-4 weeks. Went out to move it, I stuck the key in it & the wait to start didn't come on... nothing. Looked up & the dome lights were out too. We've been down to 15 several days / nights. Surely the batteries have frozen & are junk. I slapped a 6A charger on it, biggest I have... maybe I can heat them up enough to jump start after a few days. I didn't see anything left on... there's not much to leave on. I'll have to look for the paperwork... have a pair of DieHards in it. They should still be in warentee. Dog crap...

l had dead 2 month old batteries in my 2001. Read through threads on dead batterieshere and found info on IOD fuse #12 in junction box.The shop manual said to disconnect both batteries, connect a amp meter between the ground terminal and ground wire - keeping it connected and wait for 3 minutes then check the fuses and relays. The only drain l had was threw the IOD fuse #12 in the junction box I had a 246 mamp drain threw it. Shop manual said should be less than 30. Used shop manual wiring diagram to narrow it down to lights common to that fuse. It was the glove box light. Disconnected it and the amp draw dropped to 1.64 mamps. :)

I learned a valuable lesson this pat week and thought I'd share it in case there are others who don't know this. While I was hunting last week I noticed that my truck was slow to start. It sounded like dead battery. It got worse to the point where I had to have it jumped. It then got so bad that even jumping it with another diesel (two known good batteries) wouldn't turn it over any faster. After calling Mike from Arizona where I live, and also talking to a couple other guys, I was directed toward the starter and the starter cable. I removed the starter and went to an O'Rielly's to have it tested. On their machine it tested good. So, I went back to camp (50+ miles…