2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

I set up a FASS pump last year and used the power for my original transfer pump to energize my new relay for the FASS,so the truck died on me yesterday the transfer pump quit,I switch the fuel system relay,engine control fuses no luck still didn't have power,I got it going again by running a wire on a switch straight from the battery to energize my FASS relay and it works fine for now as long as I don't forget to turn it on or off,in the service manual it shows a 10 amp fuse run/start just can't find it could that be the cause?

So this is what is going on 2001 banks exhaust, hi ram,Quadzilla xzt, RV 275 injectors brand new Bosch, fass 95 big line,. Had code1693 never found out what it was it was getting a little slow to start sometime had dead pedal sometimes and stalled sometimes. Replaced vp44 industrial injection so. Starts great but seems to idle a little rough little. Today I had dead pedal. Oh and 1693 code is gone now fuel pressure is always 17,18. Seems a little down on power would it still run if I jumped a tooth on the new vp?

I'm helping do work at a friends Trans shop. Im getting "practice" pulling CTD 4x4 transmissions Took me from about 2 + hours to get it out. My first time on one of these Second gear band was either broken or completely worn out. I'll find out this morning what else is wrong with it The owner had those locking front hub spindle kit installed, Yukon IIRC, and it had a red head steering box, steering brace, and new one piece tie rod installed

A little while ago my exhaust brake (BD remote mount) started to work intermittently. It seems that when I first turn my truck on, if I flip the switch at idle it works normally, but after driving around for half hour or so, at an idle the exhaust brake will only engage sometimes. It also seems like if I'm driving and coming to a stop the exhaust brake will engage, then as the RPMs get close to an idle, it will cut out. If I down shift and the RPS go up again, it will engage again, then cut out as I get close to an idle. It didn't do this before. I can hear the switch under the dash click as it tells the brake to go off or on, so I know its not the physical workings …

My 47RE wont shift if my Quadzilla tuner is on anything other than the stock setting at WOT from a dead stop. If I let off just a bit it will shift. I know its not slipping, almost feels like torque management de-rating the engine till i let off. Any help is appreciated.

The truck is pitching a fit now. Was driving in stop and go traffic on the freeway last weekend. The temp started to rise a lot, then suddenly pegged. The CEL was on and then the check gauges light came on. Had noticed a bit of bucking and surging and the revs started to go high one time. Finally cleared traffic and then could not go over 1,500 rpm in any gear. Read the code after getting home, this is what was listed: P0606 PCM processor fault P0238 Turbo boost sensor a ckt high input P0123 Throttle position sensor signal voltage too high P0118 Engine coolant temp sensor high P0113 IAT sensor 1 Ckt temp high P0216 Injector pump t…

Alright guys how many of you know how to float your gears in your 5 or 6 speed cummins? Recently I tried it for the first time and it’s surprisingly easy to do no grinding and no resistance when shifting. I also tried it in my Jeep Wrangler with lil trouble. I’ve found quite a few older posts regarding the syncros suffering from floating gears but is that only because people aren’t doing it right? The reason being is that my stock clutch is slipping. And I’m trying to buy as much time as possible. Any advice or personal experience would be greatly appreciated!!!

Crusing at 1800 rpm, the tach needle is bouncing/ jumping up to 2000 rpm. And when this happens the truck seems to be bucking and jerking slightly. Any ideas??

I have a 1998 3500 4X4 dually 24 valve fresh rebuild (3k miles) Industrial injection Hot Rod 44, Hamilton springs, 120 BD sticks, Air dog 150, Quadzilla , 5" exh. , Packbrake, DNE2 OD, NV4500, SB DD clutch, S&B intake & filter. Just installed Custom Airwerks turbo close to Silver Bullet in specs. Loaded trailer went from Boise to Portland and back and towed great. Only issue I had was too much black smoke for my liking at low end. by the time i got back the smoke was getting worse. Went through my injectors but no change ( easy to make all traffic vanish in my rear view mirror with pretty light to medium throttle . Decided that maybe turbo seals were leaking as ad…

Mods that I have that benefit my 2nd gen... Gauges Fuel pressure with led light Egt Trans Fuel system half inch, air dog set at 19 psi Deep dish trans pan For the future... Latest mod to wiring (Not sure of name) Trans rebuilt (this summer?) Going to check/fix killer dowel pin Pull out dent mom in law gave me. Towing mirrors What are your bulletproof mods?

Time for another question!Where is my fuel shut off solenoid located on my 2002 24 valve?Thanks Ahead

I've been learning a ton of information thanks to this forum. Here's where I'm at. Loss of power much more frequently as of last few days. Originally key trick gave me P1693 and p2016. I've had this truck about 7 months now. Replaced lift pump with a fass ddrp soon after I got it as a precaution due to advice by a friend about lift pump failures. Hadn't even checked for codes at that point. Since then I wish I would have upgraded a bit more and relocated it. Still in stock location as of now. Anyhow I had started to notice a brief bit of white smoke on startup and truck has no power at times. Always starts right away. I have checked fuel pressure and have 17 psi idle and …

I have a quick question. I use a header gasket and red RVT on my Dodge wedge 540 to seal the exhaust manifold to header. SO,when I change this old turbo out to my new one should I just replace the old metal gasket with a new one or should I use any RTV to seal it with a gasket? I am leaning not to use the silicone because of the turbo, but guessing?? Thanks, Steve

Anyone here rebuilt there hx35? I guess I’m going to attempt it myself tomorrow. Any tips or suggestions? Hope I don’t mess anything up. I plan to check for boost leaks before I rebuild it. Anyone have a diy tester they have built?

I just installed some DFI 7x.011’s and a 62/68/12 to go with my Quad v2.0. Now, any tps input below ~7 results in a stumble of sorts. Like driving about 20mph in 2nd gear (auto) it’ll surge on and off. TPS and canbus are not fluctuating at this time. Also, has a Timbo apps in it. Im wondering if it’s a result of the large injectors not popping correctly with the low tps input. Anything over about 7 tps and she runs like a dream. No codes. Any ideas?

Hey guys/gals. I have been having this issue that comes and goes, mostly under very low throttle or idling. The RPM’s will barley move up maybe 200 rpms very briefly. My fuel pressure stays steady at 17 PSI. The below video is what I am speaking of. As you can see, and this is the first time this has happened, the check engine light came on. My dad has a scanner I can plug in to read the code, however any ideas at what might be the possible issue. Thanks. [video] I also just noticed my temp gauge surges as well and then drops to zero after watching the video.

Hello, I replaced my steering box and pump last night (Both bought through NAPA reman since I’m broke and get a discount through work) and hooked everything up as it was before. I then had the front tires off the ground and turned the tires back and forth about 20 times. Then started the truck and did the same thing. Everything felt smooth so I put the truck on the ground and turned the steering wheel and everything seemed fine. I went to back out the driveway and as soon as I hit my brakes I lost everything. So I muscled the truck around the block and back into the driveway. (Its 2am by this point) So this morning I jacked up the truck and proceeded to do the same thing …

What is the best way to delete the grid heater and do the wiring to not get any codes? I live in northern CA so I don't need them and I have a big stereo system so I want to eliminate the extra draw on the alternator and battery's. thanks

so this might be a bit long , please bear with me . working of a 2001.5 quadcab 4x4 diesel 2500 automatic ( single piece rear drive shaft ) less than 150,000km I'm getting vibration around 80km +/- 10-15 km ( starts around 70km , goes away over 100 km ) it feels like a drive shaft or bad u joint . ( but drive shafts are good ) started off with swapping the rims and tires over to another balanced set ( both sets of wheels where clean , no mud , and weights where in place ) .... vibration still there went through the rear diff and rear drive shaft , all good , replaced rear brake pads and joints in drive shaft ( joints where still good )..... vibr…

Glad to have found this forum....Ok, here's the deal. This truck was last tagged in 2011. It was drove/cranked periodically for very short periods while sitting 99.9% of the time. I got it tagged and inspected, filled up with fuel. I've put about 350 miles on her trying to see if Lucas fuel treatment might resolve some issues....as I am new to owning a Diesel, in general. I've done a lot of googling though, LOL. All right, here's what's up. It busts off and cranks fine, every time....but it lopes very hard and spews white/blueish smoke....very strong diesel smell until it warms up a bit. Once warmed or ran, it cranks fine. Second issue...Usually after …