2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

I've been having an issue with the lift pump not doing the prime cycle when the key is turned on. Every other time the key is turned to the "on" position, it will take 5-6 seconds for the lift pump to do it's 2 second prime. Once the truck is actually started, the pump runs fine and acts normal. If I try to start the truck once the key is on, and before the pump has ran, the truck will not start, it just turns over. If I immediately turn the key off after cranking, then the pump will run for 25 seconds, even after a the key is off. I'm running a FASS HPFP, and this issue started about a year after I installed the new system. I've checked conn…

Well new to me at least! Some of you helped me out in my other thread when looking for one. Well I finally pulled the trigger and picked one up! It's a 2002 4x4 QC LB auto. Single owner, garage kept majority of its life, never had a goose neck or 5th wheel (which is harder to find than you'd think up here). Came with a 2in leveling kit and 35's and a hypertech 'tuner' to fix the speedo. Other then that, she's all stock. I crawled under to check for any signs of a 53 and couldn't find anything, so I might have a mexican block, but I'm going to keep checking. I couldn't be happier! I originally wanted a manual, but the wife said, if I'm getting a new truck then sh…

I use my truck to tow my race car and you can imagine I need to spend some nights in a hotel or motel when traveling. It is getting to where thieves are stealing trucks and race rigs like they are going out of style. What is the best way to disable your truck so they can't steal it? I saw a video on Youtube where a guy took a fuel pump fuse, blew it up, then when parking his car would put the blown fuse in place of the good one. Would something like this work on our trucks without throwing a bunch of codes? Any ideas would be helpful.

I have 188,000 on my 2002 VP44. I hear they have a reliability problem that is starting to worry me. My gcw is 18000lb with my 5r. Should i just change it or at least line up a vendor that sells a reliable rebuilt. Any suggestions where to buy one?? Also do the orfices wear out on the injector nozzles that could produce a poor spray pattern? My mileage is going down. Truck is stock with no trick controller ( California). If i do change injectors what would be recommended?

So i replace my old style 3/8 fass system with a new airdog II-4g model due to no lift pump pressure and couldn't get system to prime and get rid of the air. Now even with the new system in, I go a few blocks down the road and my low fuel pressure light turns on and starts stumbling when going to a stop and sounds awful. What the ;lkjasdf;ljasd;lfkja is going on here? Im getting fed up...ive been so frustrated trying to figure this out the past couple months. I love cummins but this one is beating me up. And don't want to risk trying to drive it to a cummins shop. This is the greatest site ever btw.

Hi all, Well I mentioned in my thread about injectors that it was finally time to re seal my vac pump because it had started really leaking. Seems I was wrong about the source of these new, and very sudden large puddles. Its PS fluid, and I can't figure out why, or where its coming from. Heres whats happened lately. Flushed PS fluid a couple months ago. Next, flushed fluid again to replace hydrobooster. At this point I was leaving drips, not puddles, from all the residual PS fluid all over the place from the two flushes. Next, I washed the underside of the truck to make sure I wasn't having major oil leaks. I went about a week seeing only a drip or two and sometimes …

Anyone experience an oil leak after changing out your vp44? it seems to be on the driver side front of the engine but the fan is blowing it everywhere. I've used degreaser and a pressure washer on the motor/underneath and no luck. Seems like mose of it is ontop of the power steering pump but I've also seen a drip behind the harmonic balancer (running along side the motor and dropping there I believe). anyone experience anything similar it's frustrating me a whole bunch

Ok, so I feel like I got burned by a cheap made in tiwan SKF output seal. Synopsis of my issue: 02 4x2 quad cab nv 5600 217,000k Tranny output seal started leaking and I had one bad u joint. All original equipment so I guess it's no surprise. So I figured I'll just do everything, new output shaft seal, all new u-joints and center bearing, change the trans lube & install trans Quad 4x4 filter kit as well as a 1/8" weld bung on the drivers side pto cover for a temp probe. Did all of the above, took for a 3 mile test drive & the output seal failed - popped out. Luckily didn't drive to far so I didn't lose all of the …

Ok LOOKING for some help here . I have a 1999 2500 4X4 5 speed Quad St . Recently I did a cab swap over the winter . While putting the truck together I used the 1998.5 Dash and harness from an SLT . While working on the truck it ran great started up after sitting for a couple of months . While were putting it all back together we came across an issue with the 1998.5 dash . the Headlight switch in a 1998.5 and the 1999 are different and we had no headlights . so we switched everything over and put the 1999 dash back into to the truck . So all the harness is 1999 . We went to start the truck and it started and died ! We thought the pump but after all that wha…

Dead again! Error codes with 3X key method P1693, P0215, P0521 Innova 3100 Code reader shows nothing.... P0215 shows fuel relay, I checked the PDC with a test light and I have power to the pin labeled 87. The relay showed 80 ohms between 87 and 86. P1693 ECM. P0521 oil pressure switch. The engine will not turn over, all the dash lights goes dead when I try to start, there is a very faint wait to start light . Even with a battery charger set to 80 amp jump mode, there is a huge drain somewhere. The grid heater wires are not getting hot either. I checked the other relays and I saw nothing major. Grid heater relay maybe? …

I'm currently in the project of replacing u-joints and bearings on the front axles. How do I get the bearing housing off? (Of course I have already taken the four bolts out.. And the axle nut.) I have taken a solid hammer to it, including a chisel and 5 pound hammer. Any tips or tricks that you guys would recommend? Thanks in advance!

I had a guy call me today that has been having some trouble with his 24v and I wanted to see what the experts here have to say about it. Here is a rundown of what I know about his issues. A few months back he told me he was having a dead pedal issue and the shop the truck was at replaced the apps and it still did it so then they ended replacing the vp44 and lift pump. Now the current problem he has is the lift pump runs when you turn the key on but then once the truck is started it seems the lift pump shuts off and the engine will start stumbling and smoking. I'm almost thinking it could be a problem in the ECM but I really hope for him …

02 3500 dually 6sp NV5600 Rear wheel drive 3.55 ratio dana 80 Are you or do you know of anyone running 3.31 ratio gears in a dana 80? I'm currently running 3.55's and would like to switch to 3.31's so I can run lower rpm's in 5th (1:1) gear while towing. If you have done this I would like to hear about what you think & how your truck is performing while running 3.31's. Thanks!

I experienced code 1688 a while ago and also experienced a dead pedal (completely dead, does nothing). yesterday I replaced the 44 with a new one, got the truck running but the pedal does absolutely nothing. any ideas? thanks, greg

So the next problem to fix! I have been driving the truck down to 1/4 tank, and I'll fill it up. Every so often the gauge will read empty and stay empty for while, and then come up to full. No it stays on empty even after I filled it up all the way, topping off to make sure.. Is there a loose electrical connection?, or is the tank sending unit bad? I looked on the past forums and could not find anything similar,. Thanks.again folks.

So, I was towing my boat back and no issues until I went to put it in reverse. It was acting like it was stuck. After I backed in the boat, I put the brake on, unhooked the boat. Jumped back in and then tried putting it in first, with the brake on... So, soon after getting home that I tried to put it in reverse and no go. the pedal went right to the floor, and it would not go into gear unless the engine was off. Is this a broken clutch fork, stuck throwout bearing.and do I need a new clutch master/salve cylinder? I rebuilt the tranny last year, replaced the clutch 2 years ago, and now have 350,000 miles, with about 70k on the clutch. Thanks for any he…

Hi guys, I would like to know if somebodys would like to get aluminum engine oil pan? Maybe I'm gonna make somes or at least one for my truck to give a try!! I'll try to take pictures when building for buyers if interested.....

Hey guys, Just a quick question here. Can the Edge comp be turned off and left hooked up and not hurt anything? Like when you go through adjusting the sub level and the lights go off before returning to the main level? if you just leave it off is that ok? Just curious because I don't like leaving it on when I take the truck in to get inspected and all....

Hey all, just looking for some ideas here. My truck has one of the cast iron eyelets, the ones on the head that the intake horn bolts screw into, broken off. It hasn't been a big deal because I have an aftermarket horn that uses studs and nuts instead of bolts. So I just have a nut on the other end, inside the intake plenum, with loctite to make sure it doesn't come off and get sucked in. I am about to take the intake horn off again to replace my powesteering pump and reseal my vacuum pump and I was wondering if I would be better off with a lock nut and loctite just as an extra safety to make sure that nut doesn't come off, but I'm not sure if that would be safe eith…

I like nice OEM style buttons to control things, It could be EB or TC lockup or whatever. Or the dodge version I looks like it might be a pretty easy install. Anyone ever been down this road?