2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

I did something incredibly stupid... I attempted to disassemble my grid heater, like the actual unit itself. Upon doing so, I discovered that there is special washers used to keep it sealed. Note to self: do not disassemble grid heater unit itself. Now I need a new one. Unless I'm missing something, there's no way to un do what I've done. With that being said, does anyone have a nice used grid heater they would be willing to sell? Thank you.

So I have 2 nv4500's and the plan was to run both of them into the ground & get the cryogenically treated ones. But for the same cost I could get a g56? But Idk anything about the swap. Any chance y'all have a thorough write up? / what might I I need to do it? Edit found info but I think I'll just wait. Just exploring options my u bad can delete this thread.

This morning my truck wouldn’t shift into 4th gear without letting off the throttle, actually got worse as the truck got warmer. Then, it almost stalled at a red light, and I realized it hadn’t downshifted to 1st. Checked the trans oil (less than 3,000 miles) and it’s good and dark red, but smells burnt. Wanted to get a good list from the forum of things to check before I send it to a shop. This is 3 weeks post WT mod, which IMHO has been the single best mod I’ve done to the truck. No codes. I’m going to reset the TIMBO apps.

So everytime i think I’ve got this thing figured out this crap happens. Truck is cutting off randomly. It will fire back up after it sits for 5-10 minutes and it might cut off again or might run fine. I just had the ECM rebuilt 150 miles ago but the cutting off was part of the issue. They told me the APPS circuit and the Lift Pump circuit was fried. Now i have all these trouble codes. Tell me what your thoughts are? Truck is an 01 HO 3500 6 Speed with an AirDog165. No tuners on it. P0327 turbo boat sensor circuit low P0122 Low APPS Circuit voltage input to low P0118 Engine Coolant Temp circuit high input P0113 Intake Air Temp Sensor…

So I've been slowly redoing all my interior on my truck, and I've almost got everything fixed, except the driver side rear door. It has a new cable, and Ive cleaned and greased the ever loving hell out of the mechanisms, but the inside handle still won't open without help from the outside handle. It just literally needs maybe a 1/16th more of movement on the inside handle. The outside handle will open flawlessly (two fingers to open it). I have looked inside and saw the rods have threads on them, but idk how to adjust it, or if I even can? Does anyone know how to do this?

Does anybody know the part number or correct size for the seal/gasket that sits on the valve cover around the oil filler hole. Took my oil cap off earlier and the gasket disintegrated.

So my new truck has been having a problem particularly when cold. When shifting from 1st to 2nd it would shift up and down quickly a couple times and then continue through the gears normally. I had a tps code at one point and talked to a local transmission shop and they mentioned it could be the throttle position sensor. I hooked up the shops scan tool and noticed the old sensor would only read to 87% not 100% when throttle was all the way down. I bought a new tps and replaced it along with the apps learn. It worked at first kind of but only got to 91%. I took it for a drive. It did not solve my hunting issue so I looked down at the scanner and now the tps was readin…

So I have a 2000 dodge ram 2500 24 valve as far as I know has 345k miles on it. Runs pretty good I guess but the mileage is concerning. I wanted to do some mods maybe get 350 400 hp but the mileage concerns me. I did the oil fill cap blow by test and it doesn't move a mm. The engine does need multiple oil leaks fixed but other wise seems OK despite some recent electrical issues. Should I consider giving it a rebuild or atleast rolling some new bearings in it before squeezing some mo powa out of it? Or should I just send it and figure it out later. I am willing to spend some money but am definitely on a budget.

It was a cold morning at the campground, 24°F, so before starting the truck's engine I flipped the switch to cancel the grid heater bypass and let them do their thing. After the grid heaters cycled the engine was started just fine with all the gauges coming alive. Once the oil reached safe operating pressure I flipped the switch which turns on the onboard air compressor for the exhaust brake. It was now time to get the show on the road and shift to drive; what the, "check engine" light is on. I pull out my handy dandy code reader an get this: P0753 Transmission 3-4 Shift Solenoid / Transmission Relay Circuits P1765 Transmission 12-Volt Sup…

I have the preface this post with: great community here with an insane wealth of knowledge and skill. This forum has been a time and money saver numerous times. All contributors are much appreciated. I encountered an interesting problem on the way home from work today. I had very little “guts” at highway speeds. I normally set cruise control around 70 and have plenty of power to accelerate up to 80+ without hesitation. Today I basically had to floor it and it felt like someone sapped the power right out of her. When I got home I poked around the engine bay a bit. Made sure I had good vacuum connections. Nothing out of the ordinary. I took her…

Hey everyone about two weeks ago I purchased a 2000 ram 2500 5.9 with a 47re. It had a stumble at idle but never left me stranded in the two weeks driving it. I was reading about possible alternator noise causing problems so I replaced it with a remanned alternator. The new alternator went up in smoke had a short in it somewhere is my best guess. So I switched the old alternator back into the truck since it was still charging atleast. I got started driving maybe a mile or so and my alternator gauge needle went to the bottom and the cluster said check gauges. I pulled over for a sec to check the plug on the alternator. Got back in started moving and the gauges d…

Hello all, Im looking for a little help,i recently acquired my truck a few months ago and its my first diesel so i dont know a lot about them but ive learned quite a bit reading the forums. I want to upgrade my turbo and injectors. What would be a good combination to achieve 400-450hp goal? Whats a good brand that that is decently priced? I will be installing a 4 inch exhaust at the same time. I tow a dump trailer either loaded with firewood or scrap metal at least a couple times a month. Truck is a 2001 6 speed manual . Whats been done to the truck so far as far as mods go is in my signature.

Lift Pump Bypass for VP44 Trucks? The Modification – This subject matter might be a bit controversial, but I believe I have found a good solution regarding driving a VP44 equipped truck when a lift pump has failed while on the road. After I did an experiment for checking fuel return volume from the VP44 fuel injection pump on my truck, I realized that I came upon what I believe to be a simple solution to one of the biggest fears for VP44 truck owners - a lift pump failure while on a road trip. For the experiment I routed a fuel line with a one-way check valve around the lift pump so fuel would still flow when the lift pump was non-operational (simulating an …

So I recently got back into messing with my truck, and I've been messing with quad. Starting logging what my truck was doing with "hot" tunes, noticed I wasn't building boost beyond 18psi. It would build up to 18, then drop to 14-15psi. I suspected boost leak, so I made a janky boost leak tester (which failed epically), and found a tiny leak on the right side boot going into the inter-cooler. My former diesel professor suggested I use a smoke machine to check for leaks, which I did, and didn't find anything. I went ahead and ordered a cheap set of silicone boots for my truck anyway. I reused my old t-clamps, and although they were a huge pita to put on, I got…

I have 4.10's in the red 99, plan to get another one but with 3.54's. I plan to convert to SRW, it's an nv4500, I was curious how big of a tire I could run to make the 4.10s= 3.54. I'll probably be on 20x10 or 20x12

If the crankcase vent was clogged or had a partial blockage would/could it cause higher oil pressure?

If its not one thing its another. With the help of you guys finally got the obvious issues resolved with my white beast. Now however about a week ago the truck started producing a new quite loud sound when I let up on the accelerator. Hard to reproduce in letters but sort of a "whirrr" or "rurrr" noise that starts the moment I take my foot off of the fuel pedal and continues until the rpms drop. The harder I am accelerating when I release the pedal, the louder it is. I do not hear it when I am accelerating but at that time the exhaust noise may be covering up the sound. I don't notice any driving issues (truck seems to be running normally) and no check engine light,…

( 2000 Ram 1 tn 4wd diesel auto, 340000 miles) Now that I got my fuel pressure issue solved, my brakes have decided to act up. They have been "spongy" and not strong stoppers for about 200 miles. I was going to wait till I got home to address the problem. Now however the Brake and ABS dash lights have come on permanently when driving. I also do not hear the semi loud "boom" I always heard in the past when turning the key on. I am aware of the sensor on the rear differential, but is this the kind of symptom that a failed sensor would cause? Also is there not a 6 pin brake switch somewhere that occasionally fails. Any help or thoughts would be appreciated. Booster, master …

Hey all, First time posting on the forum, but have used it in the past to fix some of my other trucks issues, some great information on here. I’ve got a problem with my 1998.5, 2500, 4x4, nv4500, 263k miles. Truck is stock with no aftermarket performance mods, and it is unfortunately a 53 block. I bought the truck recently as a back up for my 1997 7.3 as it just ticked over 500k miles and is gonna need a rebuild soon. Three weeks after I bought the truck it began giving me hard starts only after it reached operating temp. I falsely diagnosed this as a fried vp44 pump, given the fact that it still had a factory style lift pump, so I put a r…

My brother-in-law moved his 2003 2500 4wd NV5600 truck yesterday. While he was moving it, I noticed a ticking sound coming from under the hood. Upon investigation we found the whole clutch fan assembly laying in the bottom of the radiator shroud. Not what I expected. The unit had unscrewed itself from the threaded pulley hub. The interesting part is that there is hardly any damage. The large clutch fan nut shows witness marks where the outside of the crank pulley was rubbing and two fan blades show similar wear from rubbing on the crank pulley hub. The fan blades never contacted the radiator or anything else (including the fan clutch thermal switch and wiring harness), wh…