2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

Is the 4500 5 speed a good pick for the switch ?

Must be the year of head gaskets, because mines leaking as well, but im trying to hold off a little longer so I can be without the truck for a time. But I'm not sure if I'm leaking from another spot in the front as well? There is a plug that is underneath the thermostat housing that seems to be wet, even after driving a while. I know it's leaking above it, but that evaporates during the drive, while from the plug down, it doesn't. I can't tell if there is coolant leaking from the waterpump as well. I wipe it clean, start the truck, and I can see coolant coming up around between the pump and block, but that could be trapped coolant that is coming up betwee…

Hello, I’ve got a 2001 3/4 ton 4wd auto quad cab diesel. About a week ago I changed the lower and upper dash, heater core and clock spring. My problems are the following items are not powering up. Cruise control light will not come on, no lights in dash or cluster, (all gauges in instrument cluster work, odometer and trip meter work) ODB connector no power, dome lights not working (though they could’ve been out before the dash change). I’ve checked fuses for continuity in the fuse box in the dash. I haven’t checked to see if they have power. I’ve gone over all of the connections that i disturbed during the dash replacement. The three connections on the b…

“CRUISE” Indicator light in dash is defective. Manual indicates it’s a PC74 Bulb. However, if I’m going in to replace 1, I’d like to swap all to LED, if that’s possible, since all my other lights are LED. I thought I’d read discussion on doing this, but searches revealed nothing. Thanks

Everything you wanted to know about the VP44 Injection Pump but were afraid to ask. I don't know if these guys do rebuilds or what but he knows his way around the pump:

Catching up maintenance so I a fluid change in the tranny is in order. I had notice some slop in the shifter so I ordered a new button for the knob on end of the tower. Got the thing apart abd the stayed in the tranny which seemed a bit odd to me but maybe it is that worn. Looking at knob its football shaped for lack of better term. The one on the right is the one I took off beside the spare I have. This might show it better. The button had some wear but not much. It still snapped on the spare where it just falls on and off of the one out of the tranny. My little pea brain always told my self that the button would go …

Relative of my son in law wanted to try Pennzoil's new Platinum Series oil in an '03(?) Dodge Cummins. Apparently they make a Diesel rated oil, Pennzoil Platinum Euro, and others made from Natural Gas. Long story short they picked up the wrong oil, Pennzoil Ultra Platinum, which isn't CF rated and wanted to know if he should dump it immediately or run with it for a while. A well used '03 diesel engine makes plenty of blowby by now and there's no way a gasser oil will handle the soot. I'm thinking a short turn around time, 2500 miles or so, probably won't kill the engine. Also guessing the oil will turn black real quick which might be an indicator that it's time t…

Need some help. I’m The second owner of the truck, 175,000 miles. All originally stock, only modifications is an air dog lift pump and a heater grid delete. When I disconnected the batteries to do the lift pump install a few months ago, I did an APPS reset using the throttle pedal. When I start and idle the truck over the past week, I can smell what seems like unburnt diesel from the exhaust pipe. After a few minutes driving down the road and at a stoplight, before the engine is it operating temperature, I can still smell the rich diesel, and inside the cab my eyes start to burn. No codes are being thrown, no check light is on. I was pulling my boat yesterday, 6…

A few times now since I got my oil leak stopped, I have tried to normally start my truck and got absolutely NOTHING. Before I turn the key to the start position everything appears normal. Dash lights, key in ignition bell, etc. all work. The moment I try to start the truck, ( after checking that the "wait to start icon" is off) , I hear a "click" and everything turns off - no dash lights, no starter, nothing! It is like I have no battery installed. Thinking that my massive oil leak may have caused an electrical connection problem, I cleaned all terminals and reattached all battery and starter cables, and checked battery voltage, and checked fuses. All seemed in …

For those of you who have been following my frustrations with a massive oil leak from my 2000 4wd, 1 tn, auto, flatbed Ram, you will be happy to know that I finally got the problem solved. As the problem and its solution are, I believe, somewhat unique, I thought that I should post my experiences here on the Forum for all of you to get a chuckle. My problem developed a couple of months ago as when returning from a cross country trip the truck started losing massive amounts of oil. The entire under carriage of the Ram and even the car trailer I was towing was covered in oil. I was using about a gallon of oil every 100 miles. Anyway I pulled into a diesel shop in…

Replaced my injectors with DAP 7 X 0.009 VCO's. Old OEM injectors were down to 3300 PSI pop at best with 242k miles on them!! Couldn't get the truck to start after that, had a big puddle of fuel under from bleeding! Installed a DAP VP 44 with NEW electronics and 5 key bumps and 3 long cranks later it started and ran the remaining air out of the system like it should have!! Original VP couldn't pop 305 Bar on the new sticks. It was really tired after 242k miles (assuming it was the original) I am not the 1st nor the 3rd owner of this truck I am sure. Plan is to now do an APPS reset and the W-T mod this weekend if time allows. S…

Performed the WT mod this weekend and a few things I have noticed already. 1. The WTS light pops instantly, use to miss about 2 out of 10 key turns! 2. Shifts better 3. for some reason the truck runs quieter- lotta turbo whine now The bolt I had to use was a 6X1.0 M, Copper terminal ends and soldered after crimp

Comments on various Dodge/Cummins web-pages were all over the place when the subject of differential oils comes up. Anything from 75w-90 to 80w-140 were suggested for the Dana 80 regardless of Dodge's recommendations. Then I found this study which looks like it was at least sponsored by if not conducted by Amsoil: http://www.syntheticwarehouse.com/brochures/g2457_gearlube_study.pdf If you scroll down on the chart to page 19 you'll see who the winner was (spoiler alert...it's Amsoil). I've always stuck to an 80w-90 except when we were full time RV'ing. Looking at that chart I'm wondering if a 75w-90 full synthetic wouldn't work just as well if not better. Anyone?

My Stewart Warner pillar gauge and I-Quad aren't reading boost the same. When I'm on the throttle, the pillar gauge says 35+ and Quad says 5-6. At cruise, mech says 4-5, Quad says 0 No doubt the mechanical gauge is right and Quad is wrong. I hardly use the Quad gauge on my phone so I don't know how long there's been a difference. No codes. Map sensor is clean - no soot. Is the Quad reading directly from the MAP sensor or thru the ECM? Can a MAP sensor be sick and not throw a code?

No codes are present. My problem is when trying to accelerate, anything over around 10% throttle and it cuts out and loses all power like I put it in neutral. Barely got to 40 mph on my way home. Hopefully not a transmission issue. I had a tire blow going down the highway at about 75 last night and not sure if I knocked something loose or what. Had a p1698 code a couple weeks ago with no symptoms and cleared the code without it coming back. The problem doesn’t seem as bad once the engine or maybe transmission gets up to temp. Any help is very appreciated.

Goes in high just fine. Use it in and out in alaska a bunch. Hardly ever use 4 low now for several years . I know to back up neutral etc it just will not go in and and sometimes makes a just awful noise So what is the problem??

Experienced a dead pedal for the first time heading up the Blue Mountains last month on a trip to Seattle. Didn't recur again for a day, but occurred periodically on the return trip home. Seems to be under light load - last freeze frame shows 8.2%. No CEL, but found the DTC P0216 when I plugged in the scanner today, no other codes. I have 2 questions: First, I'm trying to follow the article (P0216 Fuel Injection Pump Timing Failure) and properly diagnose the problem. Where is "See FUEL INJECTION PUMP TIMING in ON-VEHICLE ADJUSTMENTS - RAM PICKUP - DIESEL article." located? I can't find it anywhere here. Second question: Does it matter? From what I'm re…

New starter contacts. batteries less than a year old. Had load tested. Jumped all cables. Cross over and grounds with jumper cables. To check wires. Any suggestions? Maybe have starter bench tested

I am assuming it's the solenoid and/or transducer. The tans shifts fine from first to second. Sometimes it doesn't like to shift to third until a higher rpm or I lift the throttle to coax it to shift. Sometimes it doesn't like to lock up as well. My AC ripple is 0.02 volts which I believe is acceptable (but could be wrong). Does the solenoid and transducer control all shifting? Thank in advance for your help. D

Hello, Curious if anyone has done this FASS 150 upgrade, and if so, your results/comments please. Thanks