2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

Hi all, I have what I believe is a 47re trans. question, so I'm a new owner of this truck and I'm admitting I'm more than a little nieve when it comes to transmissions. Anyhow, the truck seems to run pretty good and has a "built" trans. as in shift kit, beefed up torque conv. etc.. The prior owner said you have to kinda power brake it when it's cold or it dies when shifted into gear, said it had something to do with stall or? Well sure enough every time it sits overnight I have to go through the same ritual and then the rest of the day it does fine, idles fine, @750ish? Runs great,shifts great I've tried letting it sit and warm up for quite a while, but no, same thing lik…

Not having trouble, just happened to take a closer look at the VP44 today and noticed that it looks like it may have been replaced. I say this because I know how aluminum will oxidize over time (truck is an '01) and this looks way better than I would expect for an almost 20 year old piece of aluminum to look. The fittings attached to the pump look fairly new also. Just wanted some other opinions so please see the 2 pics I took. It actually looks better in person.

so I just purchased a 2000 dodge ram 2500 with the 24v cummins in it. When I start the truck it blows smoke or steam on the windshield and fogs it up. What could be causing it?

Ok. I did the ground wire mod for my landlord Cummins Truck. He had a bad alternator (Bosch) which was crossing the 60mV line with AC noise. After the the mod it dropped to 10 to 12mV AC. Typically it does make a huge improvement. Next day it pops the breaker. I assumed the diodes are bad enough to blow the breaker from shorting diode. Changed to a brand NEW Denso alternator. Drove the truck to my house and the alternator was hot and pop the 150A breaker again. At this point its my breaker from my truck in place and it popped again which my truck has never popped the breaker. Found out a sticking grid heater relay could pr…

So I know it's been asked but I can't find the answer to satisfy my question. I got a quadzilla with the trans temp gauge in the port in the passenger side of the trans. It's starting to warm up here finally. 74 degrees and I was in the drive thru waiting on my wife's food. Well the temp kept climbing to about 157. I know I was sitting still and the temp came back down when I got to moving. But I don't remember it being that high last year. Maybe I just can't recall right or I am just being paranoid. However any help or calming words would be awesome! Lol. Bout 20 mins of driving and the temp is starting to show going down the road. Max is about 130-140 ish going down t…

I have a 2002 dodge ram 3500 rear axle shaft bolts keep breaking loose. Replaced bolts, added loctie and problem persists. notices bolts come loose quicker when truck has a load. Any recommendations on how to fix issue?

Hello all im inquiring to figure out the differences in dash harness's. I have a p56045364ai in my truck. Its a larmine quad cab 2002 24v 6 speed. The brake controller burnt up internally and shorted a whole mess of wires apparently according to the previous owner. So i pulled the whole dash apart to replace this thing. I have a harness i thought would work but it doesnt. I can however rob it of the circuts i need such as the brake circut that runs up to the heater control and wherever else. Sounds like a great time doesnt it. So that being said i did some searching and found a harness that appears to be identical. The part numer on it is p56045364AG the last letter is di…

I did some trading today and got a hx35 with a pacbrake exhaust flange and cylinder. Said it was from a 96 3500 with 120k. Can't feel any shaft play at all and spins free. Theres no spot on the compressor housing for a boost elbow. The butterfly is stuck and i haven't tested the cylinder yet, its vacuum. If i can get this thing freed up what all will i have to do to put it on the truck? I think i found the right install manual but haven't had time to really get into it.

My 01 just dies when I put it in gear...starts in park fine and idles great in park and neutral but as soon as I put it in any gear it dies...any ideas? Torque converter? Maybe a sensor?

Did a throttle chop as check gauges light came on voltage reading zero. Got to job site checked cables fuses restart truck and voltage reading well under 14 but not tripping check gauges light. Alternator has 334665 miles on it. Anything else to check before I replace it. If I do replace it should I keep it to have rebuilt. Or turn in as a core. I'm in Star idaho closest place to me is NAPA . Thanks guys.

Back in December my p/s fluid would foam over and while on the brakes the truck made a whining noise. I drained and refilled the fluid until it was much clearer and I haven’t had that problem since. My hope was it either was contaminated and or burnt out. Now I’m noticing a sort of soft brake pedal, if I push long and hard enough the pedal will just about hit the floor and when released it will return to normal position. I’m wondering if my hydroboost is bad or possible vac pump issue. Any help/suggestions is much appreciated. Looks like I’ll have a couple weeks of distancing from society and hopefully get this truck resolved. Thanks again.

Has anyone used or installed a DPS S300 Turbonator with the electronic control on a 2001 or 2002 Cummins? Just wondering if they are any good -- looks like an interesting concept : Electronic control VNT (exhaust brake built in).

OK gear heads! Same post different title, sorry for that but honestly I'd thought I'd get more than one response, (thanks by the way!) I understand if people have other things on their minds lately but I'm going to try again. Here's the deal, I just purchased this truck a few weeks ago, first dodge Ever, it has a "built" auto trans and the prior owner told me you need to hold the brakes and step up the idle when putting into gear first start of the day or it will stall the engine, said it's been like that ever since trans build. I liked the truck well enough to overlook so now I have to deal with. Once I go through the ritual and unfreeze or get trans fluid going…

Hi pleas help I have a 99 24 valve the tranny dose not go into over drive or lock up the converter I believe it will cruise at 50 to 45 mph at 2500 rpm which I don't like the od light on the shifter dose not work I checked the bulb which is good but there are many wiring gremlins in this truck anything is appreciated

Hey Guys, So my old group 27 batteries finally took a dump. I left the radio on in my truck for about 2 hours while I was loading up scrap, and it was enough that after starting the truck the batteries were just beyond this. Anyways, I did some quick looking and decided to upgrade to the famed Group31's. And the results are nothing less then amazing. So not only did the truck start up super fast, but even with the grids banging away the battery voltage went from 14.0 to 12.8V with the grids going off, and you don't even hear the change in the engine or the whine of the alternator, unlike with my old group27's Anyways here is how you do …

Help please! I’ve tried it all have no clue any more! 99 24 valve, starts fine, runs, rpm gauge not working, won’t go pass 1000-1500 rpm, guessing on that because no rpm. things I’ve done no stock lift pump has air dog new apps new crankcase sensor new cam sensor new fuel filters new(refurbish) ECM what happened Was driving and just wouldn’t go pass 1000 rpm, no tach, replace crankcase sensor, didn’t fix it, unplugged it, plugged it back in and it fixed it, worked for couple days, then same thing happened, went and got another sensor, replaced it, didn’t work, check the wires to the sensor to the ECM all good, and voltage…

Any ideas why the truck would run like this after replacing vac and power pumps? Video attached https://imgur.com/a/woPoAfy

I set out to change the pre lift pump filter today. Ordered a wix part# 33270 from Amazon. When I went to change it I found a mess from whom ever installed the FASS ddrp. They cut the original hard plastic line and slipped a loose fitting rubber line over it and installed the included filter. It had to have been sucking air in. Question is, could I just go get some of the correct size rubber line (for fuel of course) and go from the quick connect fitting on the ddrp to when the plastic line turns into the aluminum hard line and install my filter in this rubber line? Truck is down now so I need to get it fixed. See pics below. Just dodged…

As the title says I've got the alternator diode issue and while it's off I'd like to make a new wire from alternator to fuse box. The rubber loom is rotten and falling off causing it to short against spots. I'm not sure where I can find these exact lugs. Fitment in the alternator is pretty tight.

Hey guys, it’s been a while since posting but I have been checking in. Life is really getting in my way. I hope everyone is well. Now on to my issue. For the past few weeks my load (from OBDlink) at idle in gear has been very high. It’s higher now than when I’ve had my AC on previously. When at idle and in park it bounces between 0% and 4%. It’s when I put it in gear that it jumps up to above 15% (typically 18%-20%). I’ve also notice that my fuel rate has jumped to levels higher than when my AC was on (somewhere between 0.7 and 0.9 gal/hr). When I do have my AC on the load is well above 20% (around 24% +/-). Previously, with my AC on my max fuel rate …