2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

Good morning been fighting with my truck for sometime it’s all manual no electric locks, windows, cruise etc. ive had the truck a few years now don’t drive often but when I get ready to it’s a flip of a coin on my gauges I’ve tested the cluster it’s good I went through grounds a while back while Also changing cam sensor and checking others. Problem was gone for six months but once again has returned I’ve searched forums for a while and can’t seem to find anyone with these issues seems like I remember a code 1698 haven’t got to check alternator yet but it’s on the list any other ideas or suggestions?

Are they both controlled by the pcm? What about the pwr mirrors?

I'm having fuel pressure issues on the 1999 24v. The pressure drops and you have to readjust the Raptor lift pump to correct it. When I bought this truck the VP44 went out in the first 2 weeks. I removed the electric lift pump from the tank but never removed the check valve that is on the suction line side about 3/4s of the way down the module. I watched a YouTube video explaining that when you eliminate the lift pump in the tank you need to make modifications. The check valve is part of it and should be removed. Has anyone else ran into this or has had fuel pressure dropping and it has to be adjusted back up again? Any opinions on a G&R sump for the bottom of the tan…

Not sure where this post is supposed to go, but I can't seem to get a transmission temp reading from my quad. It only says 100°. I have attached a photo of how I have it installed. Wafer, ring terminal, washer, lock washer, and nut right? I don't think u can really mess it up but what am I missing? I need a new wafer now because I broke mine... Any help is appreciated.

I have been using walmarts 2 cycle in the mix and apparently they no longer carry it or they are doing a good job of hiding it , is there a good substitute ?

Drove it home last night. Wouldn't start this morning. Has a P0126 code. Has fuel pressure out of the fuel filter. I am assuming a dead VP44. Who sells a good quality pump?

Just wondering if anybody has had any dealings with Flagship one for ecm or pcm replacement. Is their lifetime warranty any good. Dale

203,000 miles how does she look?

First off I'm new here but hope I can contribute in some fashion as well, 2ndly I hope everyone had a very merry Christmas. Now the truck then the issue. 1998 24v 3500 4x4 manual transmission. Mods are air box, full exhaust, hot rod vp44, air dog 2 165, edge juice CS w attitude, and the wiring harness mods listed on here. Ok now my problem.... driving the truck one day and it shuttered out of the blue didnt think anything of it and kept on going. A few days later it does it again and the tack dies, doesnt come back and I notice the levels on the edge dont work anymore and the truck is running bone stock. No codes or check eng during this time. Picked up wife t…

Just picked up the truck from a buddy, it’s a 1999 Dodge Ram 2500 24v Cummins. Sold it to me for a good deal with one problem code p0336 no tach, causing a lack of power. He told me he replaced the sensor with many different brands, and got them ecm tested and the tach worked on bench. The oreillys brand sensor works the best, works for 3 seconds and tach dies. He called a mopar friend of his and he told him to get a cummins brand crank and cam sensor. I got a cummins crankshaft sensor and tach didn’t move. Recorded live data from my code scanner and my OBD2 is able to read my RPMs, but nothing on the dash. I’m stumped F56A5B3A-DC90-4989-9821-EF45AA449DC0.MP4

been having several issues for awhile now. truck sometimes will not start after being driven, then shut off for a short time. so I lean towards an air leak in the fuel system. secondly, the tach will drop to zero while idling or driving, with significant loss of power and shifting issues. lastly, im on my third throttle position sensor(first actual MOPAR one tho). when accelerating and it finally shifts into overdrive, if you're not getting on the highway and getting on it, and just kind of cruising at 45-55, rpm's start jumping around quite a bit. I was resigned to diagnose all these issues individualy until a friend who is way more familiar with diesels than I am sugges…

Afternoon guys. As some may know I’ve had some issues with how well my truck has been running lately. It has been idling a bit choppy and an occasional miss nothing crazy but noticeable. we work on a few 24 valves at work and if never figured out why they run better than my truck does. I have been blaming it on low pop pressures with my fairly new DAP 75hp injectors but I’m thinking otherwise since a discussion with felllow employees at the shop. They mentioned that 8 out of 10 Fass fuel systems they have seen are actually making more air in the fuel system than they are separating. They are pumping far more fuel than the truck ever uses and returning it to the tank at a …

Folks it seems like as soon as I fix one thing another one breaks! I am having 4x4 issues with my truck. When shifted into 4-high or 4-low the 4x4 light comes on on the dash but the front axle is not engaged. The transfer case obviously shifts into 4-low so I pretty much have a 2-low scenario. I started checking vacuum lines but my HVAC and cruise work fine. The 2 lines that come up from near the transmission are what confuses me. One of them ties into the main vacuum line on the cowl. The other has a 90 on it but is not connected to anything, and I can't seem to find what it would look to. According to the vacuum diagra…

Well this may be more of a general question. Will the driveshaft and rear wheels turn if my truck is up on jack stands? Just finished installing the BD solenoid upgrades in my 01 2500 47re and Im not getting any movement from the driveshaft in any of the gears. Doing a lot of work on the truck which is why its up on the jack stands.

I currently have a valve body that was "Professionally" rebuilt with a TransGo SK TFOD-Diesel shift kit. I had a single disk converter at the time. I understand that the shift kit has different procedures to follow whether you have a single or triple. I think this has to do with the size of hole drilled for the lockup circuit. Is there anything else? I'm swapping in a Goerend 17SS triple disk converter, and a billet input shaft. If I leave the valve body alone, what can I expect? Am I in danger of damaging something? Is lockup going to be violent, or will it be manageable? If I need to rectify this, what am I looking at? New separator plate? Pluggi…

Hey guys havent posted in... Years. My high idle mod is tripping a p0500 code for speed sensor. Happens when I go to any setting, mpg 3 cyl, etc. On a side not the green led has stopped working as well. Any ideas on what I should do? Thanks.

OK all, those of you that are running the V2 tuning with the iQuad let’s see your phone/tablet setups!!! I am looking into buying a new one because my Samsung galaxy tab E has started to fail and the screen is separating from the tablet. Not sure if I want to upgrade to a different tablet or replace this one?!!

so i got something in my drivetrain kinda hooking up making a poping sound in 2high, It only dose it in reverse with the wheel cranked to the right.(in 2hi) i don’t feel it or hear it with the wheel cranked to the left. I also can’t make it pop going fed in either direction (in 2hi) In 4high I can make it pop going forward with the wheel either way, like barely half to 3/4 turn not even cranked. if i kept wheel straight in sounds fine but turning the wheel either way it was binding up hard. I was on dry pavement so i know it 4high this is somewhat normal. I am more concerned about the 2hi noise. I cant find any play in any axel joint or u joint…

When i start my truck it has no throttle response (dead Pedal), I let it idle for about 5 to 10 minutes, turn off truck and restart throttle response returns and it runs great. I have replaced the Throttle position sensor and still has same issue. I have tried to check for AC noise but don't have the right tester, i have removed the 140 alternator fuse and it still has same issue, next stepp is to remove alternator and have it tested. Any other option would be greatly appreciated. Thank you

When you fellows replace u-joints, do you have a preferred brand and series? And most importantly, on the front axles do you use greasable joints? I believe the Spicer SPL55-4X has the zerk, but how hard would access be? For my rear driveshaft am leaning toward Spicer 5-1410-1X, the greasable model. Do you all change the center bearing at the same time? Mine seems to be in good shape. All [good] advice would be appreciated!