2nd Generation Dodge Non-Powertrain

I have a 5sp with a pedal That I have to push almost all the way to the floor and it engages low also. It did this before and after a clutch install. Do I need a new clutch slave cylinder?

Hey guys, I'm in a bit of a financial spot and have some death wobble. My traction bar has play at both ends when checking it out however, my issue is that the track bar in there is moog. I didn't put this in there so I'm guessing the previous owner did however, I want to replace it with a Dodge off road track bar but don't have the cash. I was wondering where I could get a stock/oem track bar so that maybe I could use Luke's link later on if I need to to get by. I'm currently in the middle of restoring mine as I drive her daily to school. Unfortunately money is going to be tight for a hot minute while finishing up some very long term school goals so I can teach

Hey all, planning to rebuild my pump since I believe it works fine and would like to save money on having a shop replace it (whether its a whole new part or paying labor for the rebuild). Should I get a vacuum tester to see if my pump should just be outright replaces? I have no issues with my brakes and whatnot. Only possible vacuum related issue is my front diff not engaging but I plan to install a posi-lok in the future. Cruise control has been working fine again with no surging (fingers crossed) which is the only actual vacuum problem I may have. I don't think that is due to the pump malfunctioning though. Biggest question is are there any write ups on how …

Posted this in the article comments earlier, but figured I’d get more opinions by starting a new thread. Doing the W-T mod this week, wanted to check in one final time and see if there were any new updates or changes to the mod I should know. I am putting in a new Nations 180 amp alternator too. Any suggestions on best place to mount the 200amp fuse holder for the b+ wire? Did Mike/W-T’s biblical like Paul vs Barnabus disagreement about the parallel cables ever get settled? I don’t want to run 4 giant cables across my radiator, but I really really don’t want a fire, or toasted alternator. Mike still says no need for parallel cables as long as grounds are …

Alright guys I wanna see pics of everyones truck! Post em up boys! I’ll start... Here’s the truck I almost bought before my truck. 91 12 valve 5 speed with 236k on the clock.

Hey all, been quite a while since I been on, had alot going on. Stepped out of the Military-may go back in?, moved into a new house, jobs, kids etc you know. Had the truck LITERALLY completely torn apart: re-sealed engine minus head, completely rebuilt the NV5600 and transfercase, new clutch - which is making some very strange noises, sound deadened the whole cab, re-sealed the hvac box top to bottom, new heater core, evaporator, drier, headliner, wheels and tires; I mean the works! Ill have to maybe make a post with all the pictures? I don't know how to add that many pics though. If youd like to see it all give me a shout and how to do it and ill throw it up. …

Hey all, so I am in dire need of new assemblies and lights. I'm going for usability and not looks or anything necessarily (If I can get something that works great and adds a cool look as well then sure but not necessary at all!). I have LED's in there now that are not stock and they seem to plug in to the original wiring. Will post a pic later from my phone and see what yall think and if I'll have to rewire things .

Replaced the seal on my truck while the driveline was being rebuilt, was pretty meticulous about prepping the surface and using rtv to try and seal everything. Got the driveline back installed and took it for a drive and is leaking worse than before. I used an impact to remove and re install the pinion nut and used a new nut. I’m wondering if maybe I got the wrong seal? Through my reading I think there is a flanged and non flanged yoke, and I thought mine was non flanged. Also wondering the removal process for the breather tube as thinking that could be part of the problem. Thanks Also I used a speed sleeve on the yoke to repair the pinion sleeve and this is the se…

I had to rebuild the hydro-boost on my rig for a leaking seal. Found a YouTube page with very good instructions for the repair. They did recommend replacing the brake light switch also as it was a one time use only item. If you didn't replace it your brake lights would stay on all the time. Seems like it loses it's setting once the brake peddle is disengaged. Got a new switch and the install was fairly simple. Took the old unit apart to see if I could "reset" it. I was expecting a small circuit board of some kind but it was totally mechanical. Not sure I'm seeing what could be out of whack just by removing and replacing the switch on to the same peddle & rig. It'…

Well I think it's time to replace my front axle knuckle ball joints 😞 Hopefully someone can shine a light on which ones held up or not. Local napa has some in stock, napa premium, lifetime, whatever that means? who makes them? They're pretty proud of them for $100 apiece although I'm sure there's more expensive ones but that's about as much as I want to pay. I know Spicer is a good brand, been looking for the #708047 upper and lower kit but I'm having trouble finding any in stock or discontinued. Thanks for any help!

So, I replaced the track bar today. Not a bad job really. But once done I went for a ride and now the steering wheel is turned to the left. The center isn't up and down now but about half way between level and up and down. I've read that one can fix this by adjusting the drag link that runs from the pitman arm down? Or is this a total alignment issue? I'd rather just fix it here if possible. I don't know why this would have moved anything provided the specs of both old and new bars were the same. (Which obviously isn't the case). The bar I removed was a moog problem solver. Keep in mind the truck has a bit less than 160k on it. So I assume this would be the 3r…

Hey folks I got a low voltage code and replaced the TPS APPS with spring etc from Napa. I did not adjust it, tonight I got some cutting out on the highway. I've saw the description for diagnostic on alternator, ECM, etc. My question is should I worry about needing to drive 200 miles tomorrow hauling a light trailer? I have my four year old with me and want to make sure it will likely be annoying not catastrophic. We stopped and I pulled the battery cables and turned the key, reset apps and got no more cutting out the last hour of our drive tonight. Thanks

I have a new junkyard dash core and I got a new dash top from Geno's. I know they recommend painting the top but is it really necessary? I currently have a black plastic cover and like the way it contrasts with the grey I already have. I need to repaint the core and glove box door due to some fading but was gonna stick with the grey on those parts. Has anyone left there Geno's dash top as-is?

For better or for worse, I just got done installing these. With a bent-tip grease gun tool they are super easy to grease, so I now have no excuse for not doing so. I'm not sure what to think about them. I'm more likely to clean them off and grease them, but if/when the ball or spring wear out they'll be more likely to let in water/salt/grit than a normal zerk. A Google search for that part number and you can get them pretty cheap.

So yesterday I'm underneath the truck checking lower control arms and notice the hydroboost is leaking so onto R/A and no seal kits just unit for a "I don't think so price". Onto ebag and here in the UK there are maybe 20 listed with the 3 seals all saying "exact copy" and "3 weeks delivery" and seller in London...... yeah right.... doesn't take a rocket scientist to figure out where they all are from. On ebag.com thinking I'm bound to find a seal kit made either here or the USA or anywhere other than ...... Found one ebag listing proudly saying made in the USA but he doesn't ship outside of the USA....... haven't these people heard of the GSP ebag runs, …

I attempted to get an answer from Timken and National using one of those “GFYS” Contact Links forms companies hide behind. Still waiting…could be a non-work day for Beijing employee tasked with providing a response. I was taught Bearings and Races come as a set and are not to be mixed. Also, new bearings of unlike brands are not to be mixed, as tolerances and metal may not be the same between companies. All my purchases until now consisted of a box containing a Bearing and it’s Race. Has this changed? AZ sold me 2 National 15101 Bearings. I asked where it’s Races were and was told they are sold separately and then offered 2 Timken 15245 Races. …

Was checking front end before making an appointment for alignment and noticed LF wheel has play with hands at 12 and 6 O’clock but NOT at 3 and 9 O’clock. I really have to put some effort into it to feel it, but it’s there. Wheel spins both direction with no noise/grinding (All the bad stuff.) nor do I hear anything at Highway Speeds (If that is possible with a Diesel.) I was hoping it was a Ball Joint, but I see no issues. Any advice? Thanks Leaky.

Didnt know where to put this but... Bought some stuff over a week ago from CPP Diesel, expected a tracking number same day or worst case next day, didn't show out of stock, ordered by noon. Couple of days go by, nothing, tried calling- they shut off their phones, emailed a couple of times mid week and was told I'll get a tracking number when it's processed nothing more. Second email they said they'll request tracking? Tried calling again just cause and nothing. Reached out again today via email for a refund and someone to contact me, with a very stern attitude via email or cell phone if possible and still nothing... All my previous orders have not been l…

I replaced the clock spring about 3 weeks ago to fix the airbag light and cruise issue I was having. While reinstalling the airbag I pinched the horn wire and didn't notice till I was driving home and got the horn to blow when turning left! Got home and repaired it with a butt splice connector and all seemed well for about 5 hours then the horn lit off solidly blowing for all it was worth. Went out started the truck moved the wheel and all was well until about 10pm then it did it again! Removed the horn relay and nothing since. My question in all of this is: Do I need to replace the clock spring or could this be a horn pad issue like…

I finally bit the bullet and ordered panels for the front doors on my 3500, sick of watching it rust away, company on ebay.com ships to the UK using Ebays GSP, $289 for left and right inner and outer panels, just shy of $440 to my door. I've got a mountain of work to do on it to put it back on the road and some of it not of interest here as it's a 5.9 V8 but here's the list anyway Intake manifold gasket, I have the kit just never got around to doing it Front door repairs both sides Dent in right front fender Bumpers front and rear, may make a pair New battery Passenger side rear door won't open, (this one is the one here thats not used) …