2nd Generation Dodge Non-Powertrain

I have most of the makings for a gauge to check if EB is adjusted where it's supposed to be. The gauge, then to a grease line then to "something" that won't melt then into testing hole in EB A metal tube or hose of some sorts to fitting on eb. Thinking about using short brake line or water supply line. Just need something that won't melt. Any ideas? And anybody know if brake line fittings are NPT thread? Is household plumbing NPT?

I’m finally getting around to installing a Derale 15870 I’ve had in the garage for a while. I’m not stressing the trans as is, and honestly I’ve noticed temps staying lower (or more consistent) with just the addition of the Mag Hytec deep pan, so I’m a believer. Couple of questions to run by the group. 1.) I’m considering routing the hot oil to the remote cooler first, then to the factory cooler up front. My logic being that’ll mean less hot air being dumped over the intercooler, radiator, and engine. Would the heat transfer mitigation be enough to justify doing it that way and are there any plumbing considerations that would make this a bad idea? 2.) In an effort to redu…

I did the cooling system flush on my 98 24valve. I was going to do this on my sons 2006 Jeep Wrangler. Shouldn't it work on the jeep just like my truck? Thanks

I looked at it briefly but is it possible to remove just the center console? Or even move it enough to mount a stereo amp under it? I want to secure my amp to the floor under the console, would be easiest to remove it if possible. Thanks.

I replaced the clock spring about 3 weeks ago to fix the airbag light and cruise issue I was having. While reinstalling the airbag I pinched the horn wire and didn't notice till I was driving home and got the horn to blow when turning left! Got home and repaired it with a butt splice connector and all seemed well for about 5 hours then the horn lit off solidly blowing for all it was worth. Went out started the truck moved the wheel and all was well until about 10pm then it did it again! Removed the horn relay and nothing since. My question in all of this is: Do I need to replace the clock spring or could this be a horn pad issue like…

Good morning guys, Recently my "check guages" light has been coming on and the dash DC Volt meter would spike all the way over to the high side. When I stop the vehicle to check the voltage with my VOM the error goes away. What do you guys think this probably might be?

So no matter what position I put my control knob in (face/feet/ defrost) air will blow out at my feet plus whatever else I put it on. I checked today and everything seems to be working as it should. Any tips or where to look first? Thanks y'all!

Does anybody else have a problem keeping their main doors closed on their truck while driving? When ever I hit a few bumpy patches of road or hop on the freeway my door doesn’t seem to latch all the way and wiggles creating a very noisy and annoying sound in the cab. Especially when driving long distances when I put my hand o the door I can feel it shaking back and forth I’ve replaced weather stripping on both sides of the truck and they still do it. Anybody else have this issue or an idea how to fix it?

Sunday morning I had high hopes of changing my front shocks. Driver's side went well, but two of the passenger side shock tower retainer studs snapped off. In lieu of spending $30-40 to replace this part, I came up with a "repair" plan that hopefully may help someone in the future that doesn't have a week to dream this up and build it. Also, I read nothing but bad things about the MOOG version of this device - for some folks the studs immediately snapped, for others the studs spun in the retainer. I'm not yet done with this, so this is a post in progress. Basically I have thus far cut the hex off some grade 10.9, 10-1.5x25mm flange bolts and plan to either silve…

This kinda stated in a different thread but I thought I would post what I've done here instead of hijacking. There was a discussion about rust proofing and weather protection including the use of undercoating, fluid film and the old fashioned used oil concoction to combat rust and corrosion. Since I've been off work for a bit due to a knee problem I have been getting antsy and needed to get outside and tinker with something so I decided to try the used oil truck that was mentioned by @Mopar1973Man in another thread. I have plenty of used motor oil here on the farm (approx 35 gallons of it) so I mixed some with diesel to thin it out enough to be sprayed throu…

So I'm finally getting around to the pump that's been leaking a while now, (much more time on my hands) but I'm faced with a bunch of options to choose from. I dont want buy a cheap remanufactured just to keep replacing the pump, but are the "new" ones any more reliable? Napa brand Part #381058n 240 dollars for pump and resivor, no idea what the real brand is Comes without resivor, 35 dollars cheaper Advanced Auto Part # 96-8002 300 dollars for Cardone brand, cant find a lot of reviews on this either, manager said they started carrying it in the fall. Anyone use this? A bit more expensive. Borgeson (the problem…

Hi, I am installing these Running Lights. Harness is 18 Gauge wire and has a 2A line fuse. The length of this universal harness far exceeds my needs for a neat install. The pamphlet cautions: “Do not modify the lamp harness or the switch harness in any way.” First inclination is to reach for side cutters, heat shrink, and tailor but wondering what others have done. Do I coil the excess or trim and are there any issues with doing so? Thanks

Many of us run larger tires on our trucks. The speedometer is calibrated to be accurate with the OEM tires. Many tire manufactures list the exact dimensions, weight, and revolutions per mile. It would be helpful/of interest if the correction math for distance, speed, and altered gear ratio were available. This would be helpful in figuring exact miles per gallon. Any of you mathematical folks interested in providing a step by step lesson?

there is what appears to be a 90* vacuum or some other fitting in the backside of the drivers side front fender. My windshield washer doesn't work maybe this is why, but my 4x4 doesn't engage either, maybe this is why. Thank you!!

I've been fighting an intermittent no bus/ no gauges issue for a while now. I narrowed it down to the cluster because sometimes a hard bump would cause them to go away and a soft bump with my hand would bring them back. While waiting for the ATF to stop dripping so I could change the cooler return line I finally pulled the cluster. The slides that hold the plugs in the dash appeared to have relaxed over time allowing a considerable amount of play. After a Yankneck Ed dielectric grease treatment I put some toothpick shims behind the plugs to tighten them up much like a builder would shim a window. I'm not implying that @JAG1 would ever use a shim but some guys do . Put it…

So I have a 97 12 Valve, and my coolant temp gauge has been fluctuating bad. Idling it’ll sit at 180-190 and then when you get on the throttle it shoots to 230+ and let off the throttle it goes back to 180-190. I’ve replaced the thermostat, thinking maybe it’s the coolant temp sensor? How often do those go bad? Thinking about just running a new gauge to get a more accurate reading and by passing the factory wiring. If I was to do so could I install the probe into the sensor hole on the back of the block?? Or could I use the plug on the top of the thermostat housing??

Has anyone built an on board air compressor type of a deal on their trucks? Im looking for ideas... One of the guys @ work has a bagged Toyota & he suggested some of those compressors. It looks like that might be an option..... It seems to me that there might be a belt driven option for the Cummins motor for other uses....... I could not find anything that might be a good solution. Bob

LED Lighting Parts List LED marker light LED Taillight Heavy duty LED flasher As for installing it just simple change of parts. The flasher is found in your driver side of the dash. If the flasher been there a while then it might be difficult to remove. Just take your time and work the flasher it will come out. Pull the stock flasher out and plug in the new flasher. As for the taillights you need a T25 screwdriver. There are 2 screws holding each taillight in place. The outside edge is a set of pins into the body. Need to be firm but careful and pull the light straight out. Top bulbs are your tail lights simply…

Hey fellas, about to replace the hub/bearing assembly in my '01 2500 2wd. I thought I've read that the new axle nut going on should be 185 ft-lbs. But I've read another source that it should actually be 280 ft-lbs. It said 185 is for 1500s and 280 is for 2500/3500s. Is this correct? Or just internet folklore? I just borrowed a loaner 30-250 ft-lbs torque wrench from AutoZone. If it's indeed 280, I'll need to find another source for a higher capacity torque wrench.

Finally found a local source for the other alternator diode. I picked up one diode for now. Once I see a number of people wanting them I'll place an order for larger amount of them.