2nd Generation Dodge Non-Powertrain

My hood light, lights up sometimes so I'm thinking contact dirty, But out of curiosity is it a mercury switch... because it lights up (most of the time) when hood gets to certain level.

So recently my dad decided he wanted an LED light strip on his dodge 1500 so he bought 2 of them. One for him and one for me for installing his. I got them both installed and have to say I like them. I am always concerned about other drivers not seeing me and rear ending me (it's happened before) so what the heck right. The LED strips he bought are 60" and have 3 rows of lights, red for tails, yellow sequential for turns and white for reverse lights. They're pretty bright in all stages. I'll attach a few pics to show you. The first one is the tails but in daylight, they're much brighter at night. The second is the reverse lights, very bright plus t…

I'm thinking about getting this air compressor and plumb it in to my rear bumper for an aux tank, http://www.amazon.com/Viair-45040-450C-Air-Compressor/dp/B000FQ78VI Anyone else done this and maybe a good place to put it in? I'm thinking under bed where spear tire used to be, or under hood but not much room there. I think it would be nice to have for air bags and if pulling trailer you can always fix a flat and air it up. I know I could buy a cheap one that plugs in cigarette lighter but I would rather go this way.

Hey guys, I'm looking for some recommendations on what ball joints U joints and wheel bearings I should get. It's for a 2001 Dodge Ram 2500 4x4 Cummins. It has the drum brakes in the rear so I'm assuming it's the 2 wheel ABS for the wheel bearings. Just looking for something good that's not going to fail in 5k miles. And the ball joints I don't care if they're greasable or not. I've been hearing Moog has gone downhill and pretty much avoid them for the balljoints and if i'm not mistaken i've seen mopar1973man recommend duralast but I was looking them up and it appears they are manufactured by Federal mogul as well, so kinda thrown off on what brands I shoul…

It's getting cold and I'm wondering if my heated mirrors are working before it gets icy. I noticed the heated emblem on the mirror itself and was wondering if that is supposed to light up too when on? Most likely going to put some tow mirrors on, but want to check before diving into that project. thanks

My brakes just started acting up, the pedal gets hard and can barely stop. I have vacuum brakes and not hydroboost. I pulled the large vacuum line out of the booster to inspect it and when I did you could hear it suck air. This was after the truck had been sitting for 15 minutes or so which means I don't have a vacuum leak. I have no fluid leaks anywhere and the master cylinder is still full. Only thing I can think of is the booster just took a dump.

I have a 2001 dually currently leveled with a block and on 315/75/16's all the way around.. It leaves something to be desired from a drivers standpoint to say the least.. I am contemplating whether to go to a 285/75/16 or maybe even down to a 265/75/16. I like the way the truck looks leveled but have heard it could require some extra attention to keep it leveled and have everything be "RIGHT." She has 335k miles on her and it is time to go through the whole suspension. will likely start with the front end and I am hoping to gain some knowledge here on what stuff is a MUST replace (and what parts), what is a "I would do it if I am in that far" and what should be check…

I do not recall having this sort of thing come up when I had the OEM fuel cap. But recently, being in Yakima for work, I had to get myself some locking caps for truck and trailer. Yesterday, I pulled the trailer home and occasionally I could hear a noise along the lines of a plastic or rubber moving as I was driving. It was odd. Heck at one point, I thought it was the cab of the truck flexing.. haha.So, I make it to the fuel station to refill. I was darn near next to the red line on E. I unlock the fuel cap and twist it off. Tank had a crazy amount of vacuum on it. I looked under the truck and fuel tank was sucked in quit a bit. Filling the tank up to full, I could hear t…

What size tires would y’all get? I have 17 inch stock wheels. I would like to have lower rpms if I can and I would like to get better fuel mileage. Suggestions?

Well with the weather and day light times slowly moving towards towards warmer and longer, I'm getting together a list of things (mainly common preventative maintenance stuff) thing I'd like to get done. I have some questions regarding each so help me out! 1. Brakes: I'm pretty sure the PO got them done (probably just pads) just before I bought it but I'd like to redo the rotors and pads. Anything special here I should be looking at brand wise or pad material? Geno's sells hawk pads, are they any good? 2. Ball Joints: I've read through @Me78569 thread on his quest to find some, so were the spicer ones from Dennys able to get the job done? …

My drivers side seat heater has never worked, I get the flash indicating a break in the circuit somewhere. I try to keep everything factory so I started working on fixing it yesterday. I couldn’t remember why I hadn’t done it sooner. Well I’m a jackass…now I remember why I never tackled this project. Long story, I’ve ordered a new bottom seat cover. Does anyone know of an aftermarket heat pad that will work with the factory module? Any suggestions on salvaging the oem pad or should I just suck it up and install an aftermarket pad with a new aftermarket switch?

It's been cold at night here lately so I've been plugging in the block heater. This last week it was quite a bit colder (single digits) and the truck has become significantly harder to start. I tested the extension cord (plugged in a drill) and it's fine. What sort of resistance should I look for on the heater? Does it just have a hard time keeping up when it gets that cold or could it have failed? Before, the valve cover would be noticeably warm when the heater was plugged in, now it's not.

So - I have a 10 ton bottle jack and some oversized jackstands.Problem is when I jack up the truck on teh drivers side - due to limited space between tire and front diff .... I cant get bottle jack AND jackstand in there together easily ........its a bit of a drama each time.So what do you guys do and how ??Was thinking of buying a proper jack and jacking teh drivers side up directly by the bottom of the front diff .......lets here/see pics

I ordered a Curt 56071 but upon install, found my truck doesnt have any plugs. Ive put these in the bed of other dodge trucks in the past and its a simple plug and play. Did some trucks not come with plugs? My truck came with trailer tow group and has the 7 way plug under the bumper but it looks like a universal style plug. I guess the po may have changed it out for some reason. Should I try to find a factory unit from a wrecking yard and then splice a plug into my harness? I really hate wiring and being color blind has never helped.

I think what I thought was an oil leak may be at least partly ps fluid. Truck parked nose down on my sloped driveway has a nice clean puddle under it, not black like normal. Looks like ps fluid.. where to start digging?..

Hey all. So was cruising down a dirt road here at about 30-40 and gave her some fuel and tires broke loose a bit. With that, I got a bouncing vibration in the rear end and I’m assuming it was axle wrap. Is this normal since I have higher HP than stock with no trac bars? It does the same if I break lose on pavement too. I’m trying to figure out if it’s just the added HP or if something is worn and needs replacing.

Dont know if this is a prone area for cracks but mine has hairline cracks on both sides where the frame curves at the front of the fuel tank.

Not 1 picture of this project. Removed the 2 1/2" front lift, installed a set of 3" drop shackles in the rear. Replaced shocks, steering box, pump, upper & lower control arm bushings, sway bar bushings, track bar bushings, end links, bottom steering shaft bushing, plus installed the 4th gen steering components & brush painted every thing with black tremclad rust paint. Ball joints were new about 20,000 km's ago. Now I know I will be able to keep this thing out of the ditch with the Quad installed, well maybe.

I have been having an issue that's come down to being a major pain in my ***. My truck began to have a slight miss in the pedal, rough idle and would die at times. So I ran some codes and Saw 0216. My mechanic said a miss in the pedal is probably the vp44 taking a dump. About 2 weeks later the truck died! All signs pointed to vp44 so we changed it out. Mind we didn't diagnose, just assumed that it died and wouldn't restart that was it. After changing vp44, 3 days later it acted up again. We check fuel pressures, and pressure tested the pump and checked for air. we found a voltage issue, a battery was shot, replaced it. Decided maybe it was the vp44, claimed warranty and …

Hi all, I'm getting ready to replace my heater core based on Mopar's article on the site. It looks really straight forward other than this step: Discharge the freon from the Air Conditioning System I understand I'm going to have to recharge the AC system after replacing my heater core. What is the process of discharging the freon prior to removal?