2nd Generation Dodge Non-Powertrain

Hi all, So I have always wanted to upgrade my steering to a sold tie rod setup, and to fix the popping/clunking noise my steering wheel makes when turned. I recently came across this page http://www.mark74.com/ram_modifications.htm#crossover%20steering and I would like to hear from guys who have done the 98-99 heavy duty steering upgrade on a 2000-01. Also from anyone who had done the Rock Solid Steering Bushing on the same year truck. It all sounds too good to be true and I'm wondering why these mods aren't more common if they are so great? Only bad thing I've heard about either is that the bushing for the Rock Solid Steering can get tight in cold …

Is there a way to dry these out for good? It's been very damp around here lately, plenty of rain/fog and these have gotten worse. Don't have the funds to replace them at the moment so if there is something I could do with these for the time being to get by for a while.

Sorry for posting yet another thread.Thinking since my shop is in truck, might get the suspension upgraded as this will be our daily driver soon should the engine/valves/head etc check out.Thinking new front Thuren coils (0-2") , and bilstein front and rear shocks.Think the coils are around $300 and the shocks around the same for all four. So $600 and then labour.What kind of difference would that make to a stock ride - I have NO idea. How noticeable ?

Hi guys new here, mopar man I miss seeing you on CF! Im hoping to get a question answered that isn’t getting much traction on CF. I have a 98.5 24v a friend begged me to take off his hands as it’s pretty modified and a lot of poor work done to it. It’s ppumped, has an external voltage regulator wired up and every light on the truck inside and out quickly pulses, WTS light doesn’t come on, gauge cluster works intermittently, fass is wired to an always hot toggle switch, etc... Im swapping out the entire dash for one pulled out of a 99 1500 and I’m hoping to use the 99+ headlight/fog light switch and move the airbag selector up to the 99+ spot. …

My truck is a 2001 Dodge Ram 2500, Cummins Diesel, 4x4.I am having an issue with truck wanting to steer to the right. Replaced all the front end components (Big $$$) and then had the front-end aligned at a local shop. The tech there told me everything was perfect in the front end, however the rear axle is 1/4" front-to-rear out of alignment and that he is not allowed to do anything to the rear axle because its non-adjustable. He asked me if the truck had been in a wreck (no), and if I had done much pulling (yes). I have pulled sevral trailers cross country with this truck.So I drove the truck home, looked at it real good, I can't see anything wrong or broken. Is it possib…

I have spent the past 2 days of my weekend replacing my severly cracked dash and a leaky heater core. In the process I also replaced my ac evap core. My heat had gotten to the point of the only way to regulate it was thru the windows. By that I mean the heat on full blast and opening a window when it got to warm, which was not to often since hy heater was not putting out alot anyway. I installed a new core and the Heater Treater part I heard so much about. The oe part for the blend door was broken and I am glad I had it on hand.I bought a replacement dash from LMC. The color match was spot on. The fit was very good. It was a fairly straight forward replacement. 90% of the…

Put a Pricol 0-30psi fuel gauge in when new and it's been fluctuating, especially in hot/warm weather, and pulling hard. The engine runs perfectly without a miss. I have a FASS installed and it produces 15psi steady. I'm suspecting the "isolator", the thingy that's filled with antifreeze. I'm about ready to remove the isolator and run the line directly to the gauge or just bite the bullet and change to an electric gauge. Do these "isolators" have a reputation for failure? Kind of makes me wonder when the pressure jumps around but I'm relying on the FASS to give steady pressure. Thanks. This is my first post here...

(Not to much showed up in search) Trying to find some towing mirrors that don't wiggle in the wind, stay put and have good field of view. Any recommendations? Looking at Amazon and other places. Hard to figure out what is best looking on-line. If you have aftermarket towing mirrors and happy with them....What type do you have? I've been using the type that slide over existing mirror, works OK, but field of vision is not very good. Going to be putting in new window motors, might as well add towing mirrors at same time. Thanks

Thinking of jumping size on replacement.

I apologize if this has been answered before, but I couldn’t find it, and I have to make a quick descision. I have an opportunity to buy a set of 17” wheels from a 2003. They have 315-70-17 BFG KO2’s on them. I am stock ride height. Any issues with rubbing or handling? I know they will be heavier, and will mess with final drive ratio. As far as fit, is there anything I am missing? Not sure if there were offset differences.

So I'm out on a road trip and last night when I turned my lights on the brights never came on, the bright is illuminated on the dash but no headlights, I have just recently upgraded to the dual sport headlight from DAP, and before I left I also installed the relay wire harness kit from DAP, and they were all working fine for the last week or so. I still got the dim side but no brights. I checked fuses and relays and are still good, I am wondering if it's in the mfs switch on column or light switch on dash, Any ideas what to check, I'm out on a road trip so kind of limited to what I can do.

Odometer Accuracy I had a Search and rescue meeting tonight. On my way home I thought about how accurate my odometer is. Since I had the GPS on the dash and the ScanGauge II. I decided to clear the trip on the odometer, clear the GPS odometer and then clear the ScanGauge II odometer. Also the ScanGauge is set with a 1% offset to correct the speed to correct with the GPS. I know the distance for the test was rather short but it did uncover a odometer error on the stock cluster. The test distance was 4.95 miles exactly on the GPS. The ScanGauge II was showing 4.9 miles and the truck odometer was showing 5.0 miles. I'm going to re-run this test again on a long test on p…

There are times when I drive some pretty long legs, like 1000 miles a day or so. Some of this is in wonderful legs like El Paso to Dallas there there is absolutely nothing out there, (and an awful lot of it! ) and no radio stations.Anyone on the list ever used XM Satellite Radio in the truck? I can always use the stock Dodge radio by plugging a "cassette adapter" in it but the quality is not the best. Would like to find someway to use the direct cable style of connection.So far have found very few options other than yanking the entire radio system out and replacing it and really hate to do this unless I have to. Hope someone has some ideas or experience in this area.Thx,…

Good Morning, I wanted to reach out to you and let you know that this site has been and wonderful help along with getting my 5.9 cummins 24v inline back to its best performance. Today i'm faced with an challenge because my water pump started leaking and i want to change it. But the problems is that I'm have trouble finding out what's an good replacement water pump form my local auto parts store because they dealership wanter $424.00 for an brand new one and i just don't have the funds for that while the local auto parts sell them around $60 bucks after taxes. i know they aren't like the oem ones but this is all i can afford at the moment and it needs to be cha…

I'll make a quick post on this. If you have truck that got the OEM rear sway bar end links still I highly suggest replacing them very soon. I'm learning just because something can last that long doesn't mean its a good idea to leave in that long. I ended up pulling the entire rear sway bar to just replace the end links. I had to stick each end in my table vise and heat them with MAP gas torch nice and hot and beat them out with a 6-pound hammer. You'll find Dodge really screwed up and has the bolt inserted from the wrong direction on the driver side. The fuel tank is in the way. So you end up pulling the mounting bracket which has 2 nuts. Mine was so bad the passenger sid…

Ok gents I need to know what I'm looking at here. Every time I turn my wheel all the way left and left off the brake to start moving slowly I feel a bad vibration. I had a buddy follow along listening and it is coming from the rear end differential... i know my wheel can fly off so I parked it. I recently changed all fluids 75/90 royal purple. I want to know worse case scenario so I know to open her up or not.. I'm looking at getting layed off so I don't want to open a can of worms with my truck up in the air and not be able to move it . I am mechanically inclined but not with diffs.... thnx in advance fellas.

I am doing caliper rebuilding and pad replacement on the front today. Do I need to bleed the rear during this process or is that area isolated from the front?

I just got done installing my high idle switch. I went to try it out, but nothing happened, I waited for about 10 minutes on each setting as I know it's not an instant thing. I don't think it is the switch as I have a scan gauge and it shows the IAT and ECT values change with each twist of the knob and the TPS voltage was also reading 0. I took the truck in 2 weeks ago to have the TSB for the high idle unlocked, they said to bring it back if it didn't work, but is there anything else I should check before I deal with the dealership again?

Here you go gang you all wanted pictures I got them tonight after aiming my PIAAs. The PIAAs are the 530 RF series LED driving lights. http://www.piaa.com/store/p/187-LP530-3-5-LED-Driving-Light-Kit.aspx I'll admit the PIAAs are BRIGHTER than my HID's. For such a small lamp package and two small LEDs it really throws a bright patch of light out there. Here is just the PIAAs. Now the Morimoto HIDs on low beam with the PIAA 530 RF series. Look closely you see the step in the beam in the middle of the road. Nice flat cut off of the beam from the Morimoto HID's. The beam path is actaully very wide it will travel at least 2…

Seems like a logical idea but if your tanks gelled what good would it be? They say the heater surface can exceed 300 degrees F. https://utahbiodieselsupply.com/fuelfilterheater.php