2nd Generation Dodge Non-Powertrain

Has Any one use these? https://www.amazon.com/Connectors-Sopoby-Waterproof-Automotive-Electrical/dp/B01FI6IKG6/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1515103297&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=wire+splice+12+gauge+butt+connectors&psc=1 Ive seen the crimp kind that you can heat shrink seal after you crimp. .

My right hip is giving me trouble and it is painful to lift my leg up to enter the vehicle. Can someone recommend a set of cab steps that will hold up to heavy weight and attach in a way that's not going to pull away from the vehicle. Don't really want nerf bars.

Since I got the dodge in the garage for it’s annual tune up I thought I would tackle the front drivers seat project. I was in desperate need of a new cushion and cover. I found a place on eBay that had the factory original copy of the covers, along with the new foam. I wish I could post links but my computer is having issues with that. The place is called autochampoftexas, Therr prices were comparable and when you place your order they have you send in your vin # and trim code # to make sure you get the right pattern and color, anyway it matched my original perfect. The old and disgusting And the new

OK. Just went to one of our venders...Rock Auto. They sell the Moog Problem solver Track Bar for $81.79. Cant even do the rebuild kits for that. "Moog track bars are forged from premium materials for strength. They are equipped with powdered-metal gusher bearings that provide a smooth, durable wear surface that extends service life. Moog gusher bearings have grease grooves that allow grease to flow through the bearing to the stud. They also are equipped with Moog's patented pressed-in cover plate, which eliminates excessive play and allows for tighter tolerances". Seems like for this price you could replace it every year or two and be money ahead. am I missin…

On my previous thread, I listed various issues I was having with my steering system. Fast forward, now I have replaced all my components on the system. New ball joints, warrantied out the steering linkages. Replaced the steering box, not a red head though. I even have a steering box brace on order to just give it that much more help in ensuring it'll stay together longer. The last thing I have to tackle is my control arms. I started yesterday with the lower. Took one off and it was a BEAR! The caster cam bolt was seized and had to use a sawzall to cut it out. Then the hunt for replacements started. Sure wish I would have just ordered s…

I came across Treadwright Tires yesterday and was wondering if anyone else is using them and what they think of them or if anyone has used retread tires before and what they think. The prices are fantastic and looking at the Wardens and Guard Dogs. Couldn't find any bad reviews on them when I looked them up.

I've been looking around for some time for some additional lighting. Anyone install aftermarkets in their Sport model. I;m not sure of the mounting. Looked at a non sport model, one that was on a lift, looks like there was a mounting place for a factory bracket. Any ideas?Thanks, Dave

Once or twice per week my alarm will go off when unlocking. Thought it might be the key fob, changed batteries, used only the key to unlock, but it still triggered the alarm every once in a while. Hitting lock will shut it off, then I can unlock it without it going off again. Anyone else have this issue? Truck batteries are good too. Is there a way to disable the factory alarm? I'm sure my neighbors love the wake up call, although I'm not sure how much louder the horn is than the actual truck, ha! Thanks.

First off since my passenger light got smashed I ordered new housings(see pic) and hated the halogen bulbs they were crap. Decided to upgraded to LED Conversion (see pic). Just looked at a couple old posts saying the LED lights in the housings are super bright and are a issue for oncoming drivers. If this is true I dont mind taking a loss of the 130 bucks if I cant send these back for lights that's are safer for other drivers and still bright enough for me. Also will be replacing brakes and rotors soon what brand or brakes and rotors are everyone running. I tow alot and need good brakes. Looking for suggestions on all thanks.

Just finished installing my custom built auxiliary fuel tank in the bed of my truck. I didn't like the cost or the size's of most of the units I've seen. Wanted something that would fit under the rails and not take up too much bed space. A buddy of mine own a fab shop and makes some tanks for some Bio guys. What we came up with was a aluminum tank made form .100" sheet. Measures 48"W x 17"H x 12"L. capacity is a reasonable 41 gal. Got the rollover valve from Jegs, and picked up an aluminum vented filler neck and cap assembly from an aircraft supply house I found on-line. We installed two internal baffle plates to control fuel slosh. we also welded on an external tray and…

Has anyone here ever put a rhino lining type product on their truck? I’m considering selling my rig and it’s got a lot of rock chips in the lower portion of the doors that I’d like to cover up without painting the truck. Iv seen a few pics of guys that have done it. I would line up to the first crease in the body just below the trim piece. Here’s a few brands Iv heard of. Rhino Line, Line X, Herculiner, Duraliner, Gardit, Reflex, Etc.

2001 24v cummins. I started having this problem a couple weeks ago. I've changed both speed sensors. I've pulled rear diff cover and checked tone ring. I had batteries checked and had one bad one so I changed them both. I've checked ac voltage from alternator. does anyone have any ideas on what to check? 20191011_162736_1.mp4

As my signature says I have a 1998.5 24v Cummins. I want to list the build sheet and mark what I already have done. I would like you thoughts on hp/tq numbers I could possibly see and Different brands or routes to go with different parts of the truck. Also would like opinions on my taste for the appearance of the truck. = Purchased/On Truck = Tab is Open On Computer But Haven't Pressed Checkout. Mainly a Funds Problem haha Build Sheet: 1998.5 Cummins 5-Speed 13" Valair Single Disc 500/100 Clutch Kit w/ 1 3/8" Upgrade Input Shaft ATS 3-Piece Manifold BorgWarner SXE 62/68/70 Turbo HX40 Downpipe 5" Straight pipe…

http://www.genosgarage.com/CAB-FRESH-INTERIOR-AIR-FILTER-KIT-94-02/productinfo/CFF-DG-0610K/ Anyone have one? I'm thinking this will be a great asset for my truck. Say goodbye to clogged cores!

1998 Dodge Ram 3500 2WD 5 speed manual with the 12v cummins ( not cummings ) 149k miles regular cab 8ft PTO heil dump body with the L tool boxes behind the cab Drives well tires are maybe 10k miles old or so new exhaust clutch is strong brakes are good just got a little of a valve cover leak on the exhaust side and the oil pressure switch is gone bad it keeps going up and down and trips the check gages light horn dont work either but thats should not be a big deal to fix Doors are not rusted as well as the rocket panels it even still got the paint on it, under body is cleaner than 100's I seen before only thing rusted is the metal mounts on the bottom of th…

Anybody running these?

I have an 02 cummins 4x4. Pulled the codes and had p1698 p1689 p0237. Replaced the vp44 and still had the codes. Cleared the codes out took the truck for a drive and hooked the scanner back to the truck and it will not read codes so I done the key trick and am getting p1694 p1693 p1687 and p0237. Truck starts up fine and drives but it has no power has the CEL ABS and BRAKE light on the dash. Got to looking under the hood and seen that the previous owner had a wire on the harness to the pcm tapped and grounded. Took that wire off and nothing changed. I don't know what to do next!

Hey guys help me out here i need a lot of advise... where to start.... as the post says I inherited grandpa's cabin truck... 1995 cummins two tone beautiful truck full loaded except leather... 92700 km... don't know what that is in mile but she's low... 50k maybe? anyhow you get the point... problems... truck was in one accident front axle replaced... at dealer... the truck has been parked in a heated garage for 5 years without being started... i looked at it last week and the transfer case was leaking fluid and same with the diesel tank???? Not sure why but the housing for the diesel tank had dampness on it but i honestly couldn't tell if it was diesel... …

So I degreased the motor, and my mechanic friend stole my truck truck while I was out of town and replaced the hemorrageing tappet cover gasket. He pointed out that I have a crack in my exhaust manifold, and showed it to me. That bumps up that repair to the top of the list. So I priced one at Orieley's and it's not too bad ($250ish). Are exhaust manifolds all the same, or should I stay away from the chain store part? Any thing to watch out for, other than cracking bolts, etc?

Well got up this morning to park the trailer and the E Brake is frozen and will not release... I got it to roll but brakes make a ungawdly sqeaking noise backing up. So I got the truck in the shop and I'm going to rip into the rear axle and see whats going on..