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2nd Generation Dodge Non-Powertrain
Discussion of the 1994 to 2002 2nd Generation Dodge Ram Trucks with 5.9L Cummins Turbo Diesel non-power train. This includes interior, air conditioning, heating, lighting, body, suspension, brakes, stereos, etc.
2,734 topics in this forum
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My rear brakes are real touchy and been that way for a while. The Hydro boost started leaking so replaced and everything was good for 2 days and now back to locking up right rear. I ordered a divider valve today just because it was cheap enough to throw at it. No codes or anything so what do you think?
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I put marine grease in my grease gun to grease a clients water wheel bearings. Is it contaminated now so that I need to clean out my grease gun before using my regular BJ and tie rod grease? Any answers related to chicken grease will be disregarded . Thanks in advance
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Back to this topic again. I put plow prep coils/extra capacity coils on my truck a while back, thinking I was going to put a ranch hand bumper on and $1200 for a bumper just isn't in the budget anytime soon. Plow prep coils are just too stiff and too tall, I'm either putting my stock coils back on or putting some new coils from NAPA or Rock Auto on. Has anyone replaced their coils with new stock height coils? I'm trying to achieve a smoother ride. Truck is mostly a weekend warrior and not loaded heavy. NAPA has some for single cabs and extended cabs and I'm thinking of getting the single cabs for the reduced spring rate. I'm also running Ranch monotubes shock…
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Ok gents I need to know what I'm looking at here. Every time I turn my wheel all the way left and left off the brake to start moving slowly I feel a bad vibration. I had a buddy follow along listening and it is coming from the rear end differential... i know my wheel can fly off so I parked it. I recently changed all fluids 75/90 royal purple. I want to know worse case scenario so I know to open her up or not.. I'm looking at getting layed off so I don't want to open a can of worms with my truck up in the air and not be able to move it . I am mechanically inclined but not with diffs.... thnx in advance fellas.
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Ok, so I've been pondering this for a minute and thought I'd toss it out here. My truck (2001 3500) has steel wheels with 7 hand holes in each wheel. I know the common practice is to offset the valve stems 180° from each other. On my wheels if I do this the inner stem is hiding behind the steel in between holes of the outer wheel and very difficult to get to. I looked in the owners manual and it really didn't say much at all about this. If the tires are balanced separately before mounting to the axle would it really matter where the valve stwms are oriented? ( assuming the 180° offset is for balance purposes) I'd like to be able to easily ge…
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Hello. I found some 2018 Ram 2500 Bilstein shocks here locally, for cheap, will these bolt up to my 2001 2500 long bed 4x4 truck, with little modifications? The rears is what I’m after, but if fronts fit as well, then bonus.
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Isnt there a precision , non road crown , spec sheet for better tire wear, for a 2nd gen, '99 4x4 HD , stock hieght / no lift or other mods.... I have one piece HD tie rod I know Ive seen a better, more precise caster set up specs sheet than the "within spec" road slope spec sheet
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so I usually never let my fuel gauge get below 1/4 tank and during my last drive I did just ever so slightly. When I took a sharp turn into the gas station my fuel gauge dropped right to 0 and stayed. I immediately shut the truck off and then bumped the starter to listen for the fass to run, which it did. So I let it run but it came up normally but the needle then vibrates quickly as it climbs to 17-18 psi. If I let it sit for a few seconds it settles out no problem. Now everytime i get slightly above a 1/4 tank it starts to fluctuate between 18 down to 7-8 whenever I stop or make a turn. Side note, this is an autometer 0-15psi…
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Hello I am having two problems with my truck my pcm went bad so I put a external regulator and that fixed my problem for almost a year now I having problem it will charge hard till I shut it off and won't charge till next day and second problem is power steering and brakes stopped working I replaced steering pump but I have no brakes still spongey and help would be appreciated
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I ordered a Curt 56071 but upon install, found my truck doesnt have any plugs. Ive put these in the bed of other dodge trucks in the past and its a simple plug and play. Did some trucks not come with plugs? My truck came with trailer tow group and has the 7 way plug under the bumper but it looks like a universal style plug. I guess the po may have changed it out for some reason. Should I try to find a factory unit from a wrecking yard and then splice a plug into my harness? I really hate wiring and being color blind has never helped.
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Hey guys/gals, I just replaced my track bar with a Synergy 3rd Gen Upgrade track bar. I noticed my sway bar links are leaning over to the left, I'm assuming that's because the front axle isn't centered. This bar is adjustable and to my understanding the axle is centered via this feature. My question is this, how would I know when the axle is centered? Do I simply "eye' it? Also, is the track bar the only method used to center the front axle? Thanks in advance.
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Ok here's my first try at a glimpse of what about fifty dollars can do for an older truck hopefully the pictures post
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Well I am missing a bolt on my gearbox I found out yesterday when I noticed doing the power steering flush on my truck that the damn gear box was coming off the frame slightly. I found that this is the bolt I need but all of the local hardware store and even Fastenal doesn't carry this bolt. Does anyone have one of these laying around or at least know where I can get one besides the dealership?
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I know this has been discussed at length, and believe me, I've been through (I think) all the threads on this on multiple sites and just can't seem to get a bead on exactly what's going on with the non-factory-foglight trucks' wiring. I'm in the middle of a pretty extensive interior rehab and figured it's time to finally dive in. I have a 2001 (manual trans, I saw one guy claim that matters?) without factory fogs. I've picked up factory housings/brackets, bumper inserts, and a fog light headlight switch. I do have the harness down by the front bumper. I pulled the headlight switch today, and it looks like the harness runs to the dash too. It also looks like it…
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ok i did this thead the way it said to do it. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/3311-The-moment-you-ve-all-been-waiting-for-quot-SPORT-QUAD-HEADLIGHT-CONVERSION-quot i got the driver side done and went to test it on my 99 ram 1500 4x4. i was told on another fourm the 1500 and 2500 lighting conversion was the same. anyway i ran into a small problem. the harness works ok. only small problem is the dimming switch is backwards. when the blue high beem indacator is on the dash its on low beem. and when the high beem indactor is off its on high beem. can someone tell me what i did wrong and how i can fix it?
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None technical post here so be warned... Anyone got any aftermarket 16" wheels they like and can recommend with some pics? I'm not looking for anything too flashy and my stock rims are just fine. Just thinking of dressing my truck up a little. Think my truck has too much chrome at the moment.
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Has anyone replaced the seat cushion in their truck? Mine is pretty wore out, but I hate to spend the $125 just to realize that I don't have the right skills or tools to replace it. https://www.genosgarage.com/product/dodge-ram-replacement-driver-seat-cushion-gg-sc9801/new-products
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Walking through autozone I spotted these it sh!t I can drill a hole and bolt em on I say yo myself Did it last night just yanked 11k 60 miles and ohh my so much more precise and stable cornering steering even straight line driving. Only problem is I think I blew my head gasket. Pepsi has me set on timing 4 pulled a few grades making 30psi. ****. Lol I'm kidding, SW5 t4 d5 feels good Dont know why I didnt think of this sooner. Also sorry that these wont bolt on anyone else's truck. They are a few inches to short but are working great. Truck feels new well newer. Wonders around so much less. Autozone had…
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Hello everyone, want to wish everyone a happy Thanksgiving especially to MoparMan, IBMobile and W-T for adding so much education to this site. Special mention to Dripley who always provides Chicken. Sorry , I know the rules...... couldn't help it. Anyhow about the overloads, what is the best way to get the overloads back inaction as I have Air Bags on the truck that does not let the overloads help and the air bags sometimes bounce the truck side to side like crazy. I'm thinking bump stop extensions , but don't see how they would last holding on for dear life with just one bolt holding each one. Thanks for any thoughts
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So a while back I discovered my heater core was leaking and probably plugged since the heat output last winter was not the best. I ordered and received the new heater core and evap core from rock Auto, figured I'd replace both since I would have the box out already. I plan on replacing both, cleaning everything up and checking all the foam gaskets and whatnot while in there as well. Thought about the "heater treater" part but I was not having the issue that it repairs. Wanted to replace the dash cover as well but it's not in the budget at the moment so it will have to wait. Is there anything else I will need to consider while I have it all apart?…
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