2nd Generation Dodge Non-Powertrain
Discussion of the 1994 to 2002 2nd Generation Dodge Ram Trucks with 5.9L Cummins Turbo Diesel non-power train. This includes interior, air conditioning, heating, lighting, body, suspension, brakes, stereos, etc.
2,734 topics in this forum
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Well headed to the tire store today to get my trailer tire fixed and I come up on a lady at her mailbox on the left side of the road. Just as I get there she makes a hard left turn and came right across the road in front of me. I almost missed her by sliding up her drive way. No major damaged though and every one is unhurt. Her bumper caught my tire and ripped open. Got a little fender damage and my new taillight is broken. Anyway, my tires are about shot. I was waiting to buy some new ones when i got home, but now I have to do something. I have got my spare, it is the oe and almost new. How bad is it to run on new tire and 3 old ones. I have heard running differant diame…
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- 19 replies
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Well, my first day after selling one of the family businesses is dealing with a floor board leak on the passenger side. We just had a rain here in Oregon. (Imagine that!) and the carpet is drenched. It is not antifreeze, haven't been using the a/c either. I pulled the carpet up and don't see any visible places that the water is coming from. My best guess is that the tire rotation is slinging the water into wherever it is leaking from. I pulled the kick panel and don't see anything there either. Any one have any suggestions?
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- 15 replies
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Yep I put a Rat trap on top of my control center/ fuse box under the hood and caught one damn rat so far thats been pissing and shitting on my engine
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- 21 replies
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Took my pickup into the local mom and pop shop for a once over and see if they could diagnose my loose steering. Their verdict was ball joints are shot. Trucks has 135k mi and no telling if they’ve ever been changed. After doing some reading it sounds like dodges have a spec for allowable up and down play. You can see how much these move from the wear mark. Does this look out of spec?
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Evening Gals and Gents, Having Issues with my Scangauge. It doesn't report load(LOD) correctly. It's showing 0 LOD at idle. This results in 0.0 GPH at idle. I have contacted Scangauge and am currently emailing with them to hopefully find the problem. For those of you with a Scangauge what do you show for GPH and LOD at idle? How is LOAD calculated? I can even see 0 LOD when TPS is greater than 0. I found this out while coasting downhill in neutral and slowly pressing throtle down. I do have codes stored: 0622, 0743, 1595, 1765 I believe most of those codes were related to the Mystery Switch Lockup control Other Known Proble…
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- 16 replies
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So I was on my way to work this morning, went to stop for a red light, traffic in front of me when the brake pedal suddenly went to the floor! I knew I blew a brake line at that point. Had to dive into a gas station parking Lot at 30mph to avoid hitting anyone! Downshifting, thankfully I have a manual Trans! Got her stopped and checked things out best I could. The line that goes into the rubber flex at the right front wheel was soaked. There's the problem. I'll get under it in a bit to see if it was the flex line or the hard line but either way scared the crap out of me. Day off work now to tend to it. Ugh.
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- 36 replies
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- 5 followers
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My truck is a 2002 2500 HO NON sport truck. For Christmas my wife bought me some of the projector lights (also called angel eye headlights). Before installing the lights I bought the heavy duty wire harness from LMC truck. The one with the relays and pulls its power from the battery. I have installed this harness already. This headlight kit converts the single bulb 9004 to an H1/9005 setup (like the sport model). To make the system work properly, the instructions say to swap the high beam and ground pins in the headlight harness plug. My question is, there are 3 wires in the harness but, which wires I need to swap to make this lights perform properly. Also.. what is the t…
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I found a small wire loom hanging from the truck which and one time was up under the hood. I dont know what it goes to but i traced the loom back to a connector in the drivers front wheel well between the inner fender liner and the fender at the front of the door. It is the single red wire coming out of the loom. On the way home my tranny temp gauge went nutty. Should not have anything to do with the above since it is not factory. I got home shut the engine off. Restarted a couple minutes and it was working fine. Coincidence ??
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Is there a way to shut the alarm off until I figure out why it continually is going off? I think I have a door lock issue and it goes off EVERY time I open the door. would be nice if it were just on a fuse, though I could see that being very pointless once a thief figures out where that fuse is
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- 11 replies
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I have a issue while turning, feels like the truck is possibly in 4 wheel drive, and it’s definetely in the front end. From what I have read it could possibly be front axle u joints. Since these are not terribly expensive what brand is suggested? Rock auto has quite a few brands.
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- 21 replies
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I'm curious to know of the 4 wheel ABS system can be retrofitted onto a truck with a 2 Wheel ABS system. Anyone know if it's possible?
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Just like the title said... I finally changed out my factory brake pads for the first time in 9 years and 187K miles. Now I hooked up with Relentless's Dad in New Meadows, ID and had him turn the rotors for me which he did a awesome job on. I had ordered all my parts from RockAuto.com and got front and rear axle brake pads, full seal kit for front and rear calipers and got new slide pin boots for a total of $103.49 with shipping. Old front pads Old Rear Pads
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My power steering has been crap the last few weeks. Turns great to the left, but not worth a damn to the right! :mad We just replaced the power steering pump, and tried to flush or bleed the lines, and it does the same thing as before we replaced the pump. Any suggestions?
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Hi guys my brakes are finally on their way out. I would like to re-do them with high quality parts. I am having issues with caliper pistons not returning so i am looking at replacing all four calipers, pads and disks. Does anyone have recomendations on brands or products?
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- 23 replies
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I am looking at having front and rear Eaton TruTrac's installed in the wife's and my truck. Getting really fed up with getting stuck/tire spine on damp grass and poor off road manners especially in mud & steep forestry roads. I am trying to figure out an easy way to determine what spline axles are in each of the axles. Both trucks I am pretty sure I have 3.54 gears in both trucks. Any comments, opinions, suggestions, and recommendations welcome.
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- 26 replies
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- 2 followers
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2 things happening right now, could they be related? When I turn the truck on, the ac only blows through the defrost vents, if I turn the ac off and back on it blows through whichever vent I select. Also, abs light and brake light are on. No codes. ABS module was sent off to Atlanta and rebuilt a few years ago. New front brake lines 500 miles ago. GN horse trailer currently hitched up, I unplugged the trailer connector and still getting abs/brake light. 4x4 works. Any ideas on a good place to start. edit*- took the truck/trailer down the driveway with the connector unplugged and that cleared the abs light. Ac issue still present.
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- 4 replies
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Anyone have a connection to get EMF ball joints for an 01 4wd 2500 ? Or feed back good? Bad?
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- 8 replies
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I am attempting to hook up the pillar pod guage lights to my headlight switch, on the adjustable bright-dimer side. Is there a wright up on this procedure that would show which light switch leg is for the dimmer?
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I was looking around online and ran across an obvious goof. I found this pair of tail lights for $18.71 +tax for a total of $20.03. couldn't believe it so I snatched them up. I noticed today the price changes to $53.99 on the same site so I think someone screwed up. Lol I got lucky I guess. They are smoke lens though so I may have to get some LED bulbs to brighten them up.
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- 27 replies
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I have a switch box from a police car that I want to install for various things in the future. I'm not sure where the best place to pull power from would be. I have it down to either the positive side of the battery (driver's side) or the power lead that feeds the fuse box under the hood. Which would be better? I know either one of those places would not be keyed power so I would have to be sure all accessories are off when I shut her down. The switch box I have is rated for quite a bit. Switch 1 is routed through a 40a automotive breaker, switches 2-6 are protected by 20a blade type fuses in the rear of the box. Any help or ideas are appreciated. Thanks.
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