2nd Generation Dodge Non-Powertrain

I had to rebuild the hydro-boost on my rig for a leaking seal. Found a YouTube page with very good instructions for the repair. They did recommend replacing the brake light switch also as it was a one time use only item. If you didn't replace it your brake lights would stay on all the time. Seems like it loses it's setting once the brake peddle is disengaged. Got a new switch and the install was fairly simple. Took the old unit apart to see if I could "reset" it. I was expecting a small circuit board of some kind but it was totally mechanical. Not sure I'm seeing what could be out of whack just by removing and replacing the switch on to the same peddle & rig. It'…

Well I have finally have the PDC and harness installed in the truck .If you remember the old PDC burnt up at Joint connection 2.I was checking for dead shorts with the pos connected to the battery and using my test light on the neg post of the battery and on the disconnected neg cable.the test light lit so i know there is a short and started to pull fuses.When I pulled the 50amp battery fuse the light dimmed and the next fuse was no change.Pulled the 20amp engine control 2 fuse the light dimmed more. Pulled all the rest of the fuses and the light stayed on but was dim.I am at a loss as to whats going on and am looking for advice. Thanks Dale

Hi All, I have an 02 2500 6sp diesel truck that has a bad AC compressor that I plan on replacing. I decided to buy the kit from rock auto that contains the compressor, condenser, orifice tube, accumulator, and some seals. I figured since the truck has the original components and the kit was not bad in price, I would just install the new kit. This is the first time I am replacing items like and I want to make sure I do this properly and don't screw things up. Not willing to pay the prices to have others install these components. I have been doing my research and I think I have everything I need, but I have a few questions I was hoping you guys co…

Alright, so sometimes driving down the road, I will experience the truck drifting to one side or the other. It does not matter how fast or whether or not I'm accelerating, crusing or braking. I dunno if this is from loose steering tolerances or something else going on?I've had an alignment within the year and grease my components every oil change. Any ideas?

My driver's side ABS sensor is bad and I'm going to replace it next week but, I seem to remember Michael saying you need to replace both front sensors at the same time or the ECM won't recognize it. Replace just the broken one or both?...they're $50 a piece.

I've always been a little worried about using other air filters besides the Fleetguard filters made for the factory air box.....Especially after reading some of the stories of people posting how a lot of the performance air filters were bad & would shorten the life of the engine.....I had a K&N in for just a short time & I noticed there was an increase in power, but went back to the Fleetguard after hearing that the K&N didn't provide good air filtration.....After seeing the writeup here on Mopar1973Man's website for the BHAF I was thinking about installing one of these.....I was just wondering how good the air filtration is compared to the stock filters? …

I am looking at buying a 2002 Ram 2500 HO 6 Speed with 235,000 miles asking 7,500. It seems to have been reasonably well maintained the owner has allot of service receipts. Here's a few pictures of the truck body is really nice (all redone last year new fenders ,doors, bedside and complete repaint...) but the underside worry's me...just want some opinions. Here's a few pics Thanks !

The truck I bought 10 months ago had a lot of frame, cab corner/rocker, front fender rust. The rear fender just starting to blister in the wheel well and the cab floor boards are solid with some light surface rust some spots. That being said I could deal with these rust issues but... Copied this thread over from Cumminsforum.com since can not upload photos... https://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/auto-body/2482091-1999-ram-2500-rusted-out-cab.html I also have another rust out location which totally caught me off guard! I have a broken dash, a leaking heater core and water leak around rear window so removed a…

Well I think it's time to replace my front axle knuckle ball joints 😞 Hopefully someone can shine a light on which ones held up or not. Local napa has some in stock, napa premium, lifetime, whatever that means? who makes them? They're pretty proud of them for $100 apiece although I'm sure there's more expensive ones but that's about as much as I want to pay. I know Spicer is a good brand, been looking for the #708047 upper and lower kit but I'm having trouble finding any in stock or discontinued. Thanks for any help!

On a stock height, stock tire size 3500 dually do I really need to worry about upgrading to 4th gen parts? or will good aftermarket stock parts hold up another 300k miles?

Recharged the ac last week got everything up and running fine. On the way home the air went from 40* to 80*. Made a pit stop got back in fired her up and she worked for about an hour or so then back to 80*. Upon further inspection I see that the clutch is turning very slowly and a little jerky like the clutch is fried. What can I check to see if thats the case or just maybe the pressure switch.

I'm thinking of rattle canning the lower part of my truck on my bed to prevent rust and spruce it up. Should I strip it to bare metal or just scuff really well? 2 coats of primer? 2-3 base and then clear? Behind the rear wheels the body is down to primer so I was thinking of just stripping it down, see photos. Duplicolor has color match paint, I was thinking of going that route. I've never done body work on a vehicle so any input would be great. I know it won't be tip top shape, but I still want it to look nice and any input would be appreciated. Thanks, John

Has anyone removed the crappy plastics that surround the factory front bumper and left it that way? if so can you post up some pics, i would like to see what one looks like before i take the plunge and remove mine. thanks.

Wondering if anyone has gone through this issue before or any suspension gurus out there? I've been in the process of getting this front end tightened up and pretty much have it were I want, now without all the wandering and whatnot I'm noticing out on the highway while under throttle it's pulling to the left. Pretty much new front end other than control arm bushings & ball joints which have no apparent need for replacement, although they could be original as far as I know. I've replaced rear spring shackle bushings awhile back because of a uneasy fishtail feeling I got last summer while towing and noticed they were pretty worn/cracked. I'm still not co…

I've always pondered why the AC dryer/accumulator hanging on the firewall is so close to the exhaust. Logic tells me that this wouldn't be a great design when you're asking the condenser to cool the freon down so it can return into the evaporator...only to have it pass right next to a 800-900* exhaust along its way. Seems kinda counter productive... Anyways, I had some extra heat insulation material for protecting things from direct heat and thought, why not wrap it around the dryer/accumulator to better protect it from the hot exhaust. Is there something I'm missing? Would this be a problem I'm unaware of? Would this even help? I've heard of people wra…

Hey guys, I just replaced my front suspension coils with a 2" level kit including shocks with Thuren Fabrication brand parts, and I also replaced the stock track-bar with a Synergy adjustable. Everything was installed per manufacturer's recommendations. My truck still makes a noise when I hit a bump and it's annoying. I have 35x12.50R20LT tires, though I doubt thats what's making or causing the noise. I'm not sure if its the ball joints or not. But in you guys experience, what all components would contribute to a hard ride and a "knock" like sound when hitting a bump in the road. I have the same issue on the rear, but those shocks haven't been changed a…

To start with ive always hated the silver rockers, and this past winter pinch weld in the drivers door started to rust. I had planned on getting the rust stoped and having the rockers line x color matched to the red. ive got a quote of $1400. At that price line x is out of the question I've convinced my self that i would like the black rockers better than silver with rust spot in drivers door lol So has any one used any of the DIY bed-liners? How have they held up? what is your opinion on red trucks with black rockers?

The truck I bought has a 6" lift. I think the front is ok, but the rear has huge blocks instead of springs. I don't like it. Any recommendations? Links to the right springs would be appreciated. Thanks!

I pulled my dash to get the old cover off, drop pieces on the floor they shatter like glass,want to order an new one, this looks like a nightmare, dash is down ( not fully detached) but there is several screws that looks like hold down the cover way up under the backside by vents,etc Is this the nightmare I envision?

Ever since you mentioned the lower pressures you run in the front axles I decided to tweak with mine a bit and adjust a few things like sector adjustment on the steering gear box now. This is the best the truck has ran from steering now. It very stable and tracks well now with no sawing action now. So I wanted to say "Thank You" to Wild & Free because my truck is very enjoyable to drive now and doesn’t require all those crazy mods like steering box brace or 3rd gen track bar. All factory front end parts!