2nd Generation Dodge Non-Powertrain

So my truck runs empty 99% of the time and I would really like to eliminate the "rake" in its stance. When I got the truck it had spacers in the front springs and 35's which as everyone here knows took its toll on the front end components. So I have read that as long as the front spacers are 2" or less that it doesn't have too drastic of effect on front end geometry so hopefully less wear on the track bar etc. But I am contemplating just a shorter block in the rear and maybe adding bags for when I do have a load. I would love to hear everyone's thoughts and ideas on this. I wouldn't mind the rear end being lower for easier loading, etc.

The truck I bought 10 months ago had a lot of frame, cab corner/rocker, front fender rust. The rear fender just starting to blister in the wheel well and the cab floor boards are solid with some light surface rust some spots. That being said I could deal with these rust issues but... Copied this thread over from Cumminsforum.com since can not upload photos... https://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/auto-body/2482091-1999-ram-2500-rusted-out-cab.html I also have another rust out location which totally caught me off guard! I have a broken dash, a leaking heater core and water leak around rear window so removed a…

Alright guys I need a little help here. So my new to me 2001 3500 QCLB has had fairly week power steering since I bought it a few weeks ago. After reading up on some forums I decided to take out the factory power steering screen and clean it up. Everything went well until I was bleeding the system after. I had the front end off the ground with the truck off and was turning lock to lock to push air out of the lines. After about 15 times turning the wheel back and forth I decided to start the truck. As I was turning lock to lock with the truck running (front end still off the ground) I lost all my power steering. When I hit the left lock one of the times I heard a "pop" or …

I polished the stock headlight lenses when i first got the truck. That helped some but the headlights still sucked. I added some led cube fog lights from Amazon and aimed them low and angled out. This really helped with night driving by lighting up the side of the road. I made sure they wouldn't blind oncoming traffic and haven't had anyone flash me. Last week i got some Hella 100/80 watt bulbs and wired up relays. This completely changed visibility at night. Before i NEEDED the leds at night. Now i can barely tell if they are on or off. Haven't had anyone flash me yet but only driven it 10 times going to work. Before anyone tells me how much better the Morimoto upgrade i…

1996 Dodge Ram Sport headlight on the passenger side is bright and the headlight on the driver side is dim and makes no difference with high beams on, does that mean that the light bulb is burnt-out on the passenger side because I put a new bulb in where the dim light is on driver side and there was no change.

I'm not really a fan of seeing a big tip on exhaust or seeing the exhaust pipe at all. So.. a few weeks ago I cut the last few feet of the exhaust for an axle dump. What I didn't realize was how much louder it would be and how much drone and vibration would come as a result. I had a hanger/support installed but its a couple/few feet up from the end. So over the axle.. there's no support. I don't mind it being a little louder but the drone and vibration is driving me nutz <--- no pun intended. Do you think another hanger near the end would help alleviate this.. or no?

98 2500 CTD QC Latch that holds the quad door window closed separated from the window glass. Latch seems intact, but has anyone tried to reattach latch to glass? It looks like they used epoxy or somethin at the factory. Any help, ideas appreciated. Thanks, Dave.

Thinking I want to get rid of my plastic bed liner which has rubbed paint, etc and get a set of cap rails and either do a diy or some other type of bed liner. Anybody purchased cap rails recently and have an opinion of them? What cap rails are on your truck and if you can post a pic how far do they wrap over (thinking about covering rubbed paint). Also any opinions on DIY spary in bed liners?

Hello, My 1999 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins 24 valve 250xxx has an interesting issue. I have done quite a bit to the front end to try and figure out this issue. Replaced the steering gear box with a redhead unit. Steering gear box brace. Track bar upgrade to bushing with heim joint. Power steering lines when I did the steering gear box. Borg Warner steering shaft upgrade. That delron piece on the steering unit engine side this one http://rocksolidramtrucksteering.com/index.php/about-the-fix/ . Rebuilt the vacuum pump. Replaced the hydroboost a few years ago. Calipers like 2 or 3 times now. Pulled the rear proportioning valve off as it was rusted heavily and I blew t…

Just bought a mid injector tune, how do I go about downloading this and putting it in my tru k? Can I just do that on my iPhone ? It just gives me this coding message https://m.imgur.com/a/tF5Ad5k

I have a 01 dodge cummins 4wd, it has synergy steering, BD track bar, EMF ball joints and Redhead steering box. I recently had it aligned and I'm still getting tire noise and wear(getting choppy) and the truck still wonders back and forth. I'll attach my alignment specs the shop set everything to. I need some help with what is correct? Because I went from the Y style to the T style steering and I think it not correct now.

LED Lighting Parts List LED marker light LED Taillight Heavy duty LED flasher As for installing it just simple change of parts. The flasher is found in your driver side of the dash. If the flasher been there a while then it might be difficult to remove. Just take your time and work the flasher it will come out. Pull the stock flasher out and plug in the new flasher. The replacement flasher can is slightly larger for the 12V dash. It will barely fit. Make sure to get the electronic flasher can. As for the taillights you need a T25 screwdriver. There are 2 screws holding each taillight in place. The outside edge …

Back in the winter i changed heater core and evaporator core and i put some insulation around the evaporator to keep air from passing and i think the insulation has the box in a bind or something. The heat is on all the time if u turn the fan on and it fills hot if u stick your hand up to the vents with it off, I was wondering where the vacuum for the flap for ac and if u could see if it will move by hand?

I've been fighting an intermittent no bus/ no gauges issue for a while now. I narrowed it down to the cluster because sometimes a hard bump would cause them to go away and a soft bump with my hand would bring them back. While waiting for the ATF to stop dripping so I could change the cooler return line I finally pulled the cluster. The slides that hold the plugs in the dash appeared to have relaxed over time allowing a considerable amount of play. After a Yankneck Ed dielectric grease treatment I put some toothpick shims behind the plugs to tighten them up much like a builder would shim a window. I'm not implying that @JAG1 would ever use a shim but some guys do . Put it…

I have the stock wheels on my 96 Ram 2500and one is slightly bent. I found some yesterday that are off a 2000 Ram 2500 will they fit my 96? Thanks, Bob

00 dodge 2500 24 valve 5.9 4x4 never had to use ac went to use it was inop so I figured I would replace the liquid line and accumulator and charge system so I did and no cod air checked the blend door it is working noticed the line I replaced gets cold and system seems to be operating but no cold air in the cab any help would be appreciated thank you in advance

Drove the truck over 100miles today, hasn’t done any kind of distance in awhile. After about 30 miles, started to feel gravelly pedals, both brake and clutch felt weird, when pressed felt gravelly under my feet. Braking seemed a little weak too and power steering more intermittent than normal. At about mile 40 had to brake hard compared to normal braking and the truck pulled left... not sure where to start my chase, any thoughts?

I put my visors down to hold my windshield shade.... My pass side the vanity mirror is loose and messy gooey black glue foam rubber gunk holding the mirror in the visor melted and was falling out..... nasty stuff .... cleans off the upholstery with rubbing alcohol luckily Pulled the visor off and tried to vacuum the dissolving gooey stuff..... Might have to just break the mirror glass to get all the messy goo out of there. Anyone else had this happen

I notice I seem to be missing the 2 bolts that connect my transfer case to the rubber bumper/frame cross member. There are 2 Nuts welded on to the rubber bumper bracket. Any help figuring out the size of these bolts so I could just get something at the hardware store? Thanks (PS, starting new threads for this kind of questions is fine? just put in correct area i figure?)

A friend passed me on freeway the other day and called to say my trucks dog tracking. Said passenger front was sticking out 6"more than drivers side. I've never thought I got track bar adjusted perfect so I pulled it in. I'm getting 1/2" off is all. To the passenger side. I just moved it 1/2" to drivers side. A few years ago I got in and accident that ripped the axle off the leaf springs. Wondering if I didnt get the rear axle back to straight. I dunno Reset steering now tighten track bar. Possible that crown in the rd pulls front axle to right I was in the slow lane. Control arm bushings are poly but no way track bar allows it …