2nd Generation Dodge Non-Powertrain

Gotta toss out a big "Thank You!" to @dieselautopower... Headlights sold by DAP. http://dieselautopower.com/standard-to-sport-edition-headlight-conversion-9402spchl/ Very nice looking headlights. Clear lens and looks very nice on the truck and doesn't look like a euro-truck or something stolen from a UFO. I've still got to adjust the aim of the lights tonight. I guess there is something else to add to my Garage list. https://mopar1973man.com/garage/modification/267-sport-headlight-conversion/

I found a nice 1998 dodge ram 2500 with a 12v. The guys said---------- I have for sale a very rare 1998 dodge 2500 Cummins diesel. These trucks where only made for 4 months in 98 with the older style Mechanical 12valve engine with the good P7100 injection pump. It also came from factory with the newer 24valve interior and a a full quad Cab, with all 4 doors opening. All the 12valve trucks from 94-98 that where quad cab, had only the two front doors open and the back doors where solid non opening doors. This is also what makes the truck super rare cause is it near impossible to find a 12valve with a full 4 door quad cab. Aside from a little history on the truck here are t…

Starting to make a list for my new to me 1999 3500 extra cab 4x4, and one at the top of the list is the steering. There is a half a steering wheel turn worth of slop to the left, and hardly any to the right. Do you think the gear box needs replacing?

So I've started to notice that in the morning my truck has hard a little harder time starting. By harder time I mean, just cranks a little longer then it typically would. We haven't had to cold of mornings (high 30's low 40's) but it used to be 1 second or less and it'd fire up. This morning it was 3-4 seconds and then she fired up. I did just change some things with the Smarty so the battery was on for a little longer then normal before actually cranking but this isn't the first time it's happened. My driveway is at an incline so engine bay is slightly higher then the tank. So I'm wondering... Could it be batteries? Before starts my needle is juuuuust above t…

If I don't put on many miles a year... How often should I change fluids (Brakes, radiator, etc) Most articles I see recommend changing based on mileage not time. Thanks

This question is not for me but I am not far from having my pads changed. Someone I know is thinking of putting Ceramic pads on his truck. I used to think a middle of the road set of disc pads always worked great, not the cheapest or the most expensive, At times when things were tight the cheapest. Do ceramic work better or last longer?

I have found a 1997 quad cab (4door) 1500 like my 02 2nd gen 2500. Will those doors fit my truck? I need a passenger front and rear. Rust is too bad to keep it going.

The leather on the front seat bottoms is starting to go bad and needs to be redone. Over the years I've heard about and seen some of the work out of upholstery shops in Tijuana for a third to half what it would cost here in the States . Tijuana is about 55 minutes south of me and my son goes down there from time to time so getting the seat bottoms there is no problem. Does anyone have any recommendations or experience with a shop there?

After a full charge, disconnected, and standing over night at about 55 deg., what should a battery hold it's voltage at? How low is too low?

Going to change diff fluid this weekend. I'm thinking about getting on of those fancy diff covers. I don't mind the price but only if upgrade is worth it. Anybody know what normal temps are with a OEM diff cover compared to the aftermarket alum covers with "cooling" fins? My Dana 70 is usually towing a 8k to 9k trailer most of the time. Even with the fancy type I would still pull cover when changing fluid, just to get a visual of the insides. And I would still use "dino" oil. In your opinion is the fancy type are worth it?

I got creative. I figured out a spot for my LG G4 cell phone. This happens to be a multifunction device being it's my MP3 player, cellphone, and my Quadzilla display. I've been laying it on my console most of the time. I got tried of that, dog laying across it, sliding off on the floor, trying to answer the phone, etc. Being the phone is jacked into the stereo I can listen to my MP3's through the stereo and if a call comes I can answer the phone call and its completely hands free (still legal). So I found a piece of scrap aluminum sign and start cutting, bending, notching, etc... This is what I came up with... It sits right in my ashtray. …

So I'm pretty sure my block heater is on it's last leg. Been noticing it a lot lately. Just wondering what temp your engines heats up to before you start it. Mine the last couple days has been high of 86 scan guage said at 20 degrees out. Also does anyone know the torque for that block heater plug. Thanks

I just got done installing my high idle switch. I went to try it out, but nothing happened, I waited for about 10 minutes on each setting as I know it's not an instant thing. I don't think it is the switch as I have a scan gauge and it shows the IAT and ECT values change with each twist of the knob and the TPS voltage was also reading 0. I took the truck in 2 weeks ago to have the TSB for the high idle unlocked, they said to bring it back if it didn't work, but is there anything else I should check before I deal with the dealership again?

Wanting some opinions here on the rusty door problem our rams have. I'm about to drop $1000 on Omni plus paint to put a new paint job on my truck. I have a great body man who is helping me do it right. I'm doing all the grunt work. So my question is what would you do to repair knowing you are trying to put a quality paint job on.

I've noticed on my 1999 24v that the WTS light takes a while to come on. All other lights have come on and off before the WTS light comes on. And there is no cranking the truck without that light coming on. My 12v is not that way.

I ordered the Daniel Stern rik-ram kit, and am trying to install it today, but I'm now too confused after reading so meany threads on so many forums. Question no. 1. The DS upgraded wiring schematic shows a general one with truck with only 1 battery. Shouldn't I use both batteries? My Rik-ram kit came with a bag o parts. 3 relays not 4 like other homemade kits. 2. Is my truck a ground switching system or not? (I pull the knob out to turn my lights on). If yes/no, do I still follow that schematic? 3. Do you know/have any pictures of a built harness that I can follow? I would really appreciate a "Chinese Blueprint". Pictures go a long way for this guy... any help would be g…

So I'm on my 2nd full tank of diesel in my new to me 1999 3500 24v. Each with a bottle of Diesel Kleen (40 gal treatment quantity) and I must say the Diesel Kleen really seems to have quieted the clackety clack down. At $8-$10 per bottle I don't think I will be doing that at every fill up for much longer, but will continue sporadically. I'm certain the previous owner NEVER ran any sort of additive or "helper" fluids so I'm trying to do what I can to get her back in to shape. I am subscribing to what I've read, that 2 cycle oil with TCW3 added to the fuel will help to keep things lubricated, including the lift pump and will hopefully extend the life of it. It makes…

Rust! Yeah, this winter I've not been able to keep up on washing the truck as much as I wanted to. I knew I had a few paint chips in the tailgate from the old canopy. So I'm doing some fix-up work to keep the R word under control. Need to pick up a can of gloss black paint tomorrow when the hardware store is open. The black of the tailgate liner plastic will blend right in with the extended black paint line. You can see I had it paint once with flat black but that is porous.

So this problem has slowly been getting worse, Little run down, beginning of all this. so every time ya go to turn, it makes a squeaking noise, left or right doesn't matter. As time went on, it got a little worse, then when you started turning left, ( still makes the squeaking noise) the steering wheel would tight up, not alot but enough to notice in the wheel and got really annoying, it wouldnt tighten up turning right, normal as could be. Well now it's getting bad, if you go to turn left, it'll pop out of drive into neutral, go to turn right it, it wants to pop out of drive and has, also the gear indicator has been funky, When you go to put into park, the in…

I'm planning to put a 5", turbo back, muffled pipe with a 6" tip on my stock 3500 qc 4x4. I've read the Donalson muffler is the way to go so I'll probably go that route. I'm not looking for loud just like the deep diesel sound. I haven't decided if I will buy a prefab bolt on, or take it to a local muffler shop. I definitely do not want droning or obnoxious loud. Do I need to do anything else or is this a good set up?