2nd Generation Dodge Reliability / Performance

Just posting because I wasted a BUNCH of time trying to build a DIY big line/relocation kit and couldn't do it for much less than Vulcan... so I'm basically venting.I have a new DDRP that I just installed a month or so ago and I've been wanting to relocate it closer to the tank and upgrade to 3/8" lines from tank to VP. I get about 17psi at idle and around 12-13psi at WOT with a new FF but I still want to move it so the pump will last longer etc.I saw the Vulcan Pusher Kit for about $120 + the DDRP bracket $12 + Shipping $15 = $147 and thought there was no way it was worth it.Long story, but after searching all over and finding the parts at different hydraulic and automo…

So while my truck is in the body shop i'm sitting back thinking of the things I want to fix or replace on it during this overhaul i'm doing on it. For the past 2 years i've had a psi gauge taped fast to the steering column with electical tape and if i'm dumping this kind of money into a body job, shouldn't I be able to spend some money and get some gauges? There lies the problem ,right now i'm running a Quadzilla XZT module and only gauge I have is fuel psi. I've been wondering if I should go with a 3 pillar set up of fuel, egt and boost, or should I ditch the XZT and buy an Adrenaline with pulse and get the gauges that way. I know, more money then the pillar set up, but…

Rpm is 2200-2500 shes been smoking more than normal. Smarty is on 9 3 3 3. Used to only haze over 1800 when really on it. Sac 100s are probably tired over 100k. Would they still smoke at higher rpm. I haven't pressure checked anything It makes nearly 40psi. Putting around rarely over 20. Egts never over 1200 around town egts are 400-600 cruising about 750ish. For some reason I suspect a boost leak. Just thinking out loud as I've been noticing a noticable amount of smoke that isnt normal . With about 10k behind it I was pushing black like a freight train getting into traffic on the freeway rpm was aroun…

What are my options on reprogramming my speedometer? I know Smarty s03 and drbiii but what else will do it? The cheaper the better.

Hey gang - sharing info Someone PLEASE make one of these and put it on their truck and if it runs well make me one !!!!! Theoretically this is a $50 fab job and could be awesome for EGT and spoolup ..... theoretically http://www.pusherintakes.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=24vs2gCA common - who's putting their handup

While I'm waiting for FASS to return a call I figured I'd ask here as well. I changed my fuel filter last Thursday and ever since, my FASS 150 is all over the place for pressure. I noticed this morning that every time the grid heater cycled the fuel pressure would build to 15psi, then drop back down to 12-12.5psi. Running down the road it continues to bounce between 12.5 to 15 some times it will spike at 18psi, then drop back to 12.5. Driving style doesn't seem to effect it either, Sunday driver to hot rod it doesn't drop below 12psi. Before I changed the filter it ran a constant 12.5psi and would jump to 15psi at start up then drop to 12.5. I bought a new water separator…

As you may or may not know.. I traded my comp box for a smarty. I am happy with how the smarty works for daily driving but miss the get up and go of the comp. So.. I'm thinking about picking up another comp box and trying a stack. What do I need to know? I know about running the smarty on even numbers. What would be decent settings to run both together? Is it hard on things?

Hey guys. I got a 1999 24v 3500 with 5 speed w\ dual clutch. I have the banks power pack tlc. 4in. Exhaust, intake, turbo housing, banks Otto mind, gauges, bhaf, banks brake, etc. All have been installed since 2000. I would like to have selectable power levels. I like the edge comp module. Can I stack the edge with the Otto mind? I'm open to all suggestions. I'm also gonna upgrade the lift pump too. Looking at the fass adjustable lift pump . Do u guys think I should upgrade the lift pump first before I stack chips? Thanks in advance for all ur info.

Is this enough wear to cause a no start. Getting just a click. With starter and jumping passed relay. I think these are larrybs contacts about 8 years on them. Thinking ill put this back together and chase voltage cable issues. Both batteries new two weeks ago. I havent done cables ever so I guess it might be time for terminals and cable's ill build them Was hoping to just have worn contacts but I dont think thats causing my problem. Had a slow cranking issue paired with a fuel leak for awhile and kinda letting it go cause I don't drive it much lately Starter is factory starter from 02

it is interesting to note that the FSM says to replace the whole starter, instead of servicing the wear parts. it worked with no problem...then one day....*click*click* i wondered if you could push start a diesel, but realized that i couldn't get that truck up to speed to even try:lmao: i will mention that while i was waiting for $ and shipping to my door, i took the contact that was the most wore, and made the hole for the stud longer to allow the contact to be closer to the plunger. worked no problems until i got the contacts(6 months later, i know im a procrastinator) (1) Disconnect and isolate negative cables of both batteries. (2) Raise and support vehicle…

I'm looking at steering box braces... one more expense trying to tighten up the steering on my truck. It seems all of them replace the nut under the pitman arm with an extension which engages a bearing... a high quality ball bearing. Most units bridge frame rail to frame rail, claiming to stiffen the chasis by so doing. One product mounts entirely to the driver's side & claims that the frame naturally flexes & the bridge designs can put undesireable pressure on the steering box internal components... they also do extreem off-roading which I don't. There are differences in designs & also thickness of materials... Thoughts? First hand experiences…

So I've been looking for the last 2 days and wasn't sure where to ask these questions so I made a new thread. I can't figure out how to update my sig, and was also wondering if anyone is running an s362 on 50hp sticks with quadzilla adr v2? I just have a few questions I can't figure out.

Hey guys my local pulling association just made some new rules for a stock diesel pulling class, it says you can only use a turbo that came stock on your make model and year truck. So what I am wondering is what is the best turbo I can put on my truck? Also do you think it is possible that a hybrid 35/40 would be able to be picked up by a instpector and or maybe would not help me. Thanks:thumbup2:

So, across the road from me and maybe 300 feet back, they are installing a new natural gas pipe line. It's 24" and ~1200 psi. BIG. Anyway, that means welders and trucks. With Delta just having coming through, it has taken over 3 days for the pasture to return to its normal not swamp state. I was looking out of my garage when I hear a V8 through flowmasters revving up, I turn to see a 2000ish Chevy z71 pull out on the road and then what sounds like a he caught the gate and is dragging it. He stops after about 40 feet. Goes into reverse, stops goes forward and then comes screeching to a halt. Then he floors it and I hear what sounds like a drawer of…

Another simple enhancement that don't cost a bunch of money is straight pipe the exhaust. Beware in some states it is illegal to be without a muffler. Now in some states a turbo is considered a muffling device. Some people think it just to loud. I will admit that without the muffler in place is it louder. I've been told that my truck can be heard up to a mile away. Now besides the noise and legal stuff. The bonus to straight piping the exhaust is that the engine can breathe easier. It will reduce the pyrometer temperature, increase horsepower and torque, and increase your fuel milage. Basically all you need to do is measure how long the full muffler assembly is and get …

I have code 0336. Can somebody tell me what it is? I picked it up with the Scangauge, it didn't show with the key trick. A search here didn't produce anything. Thanks

I have gone down in tire size from 35 inch tires to now a 265/70R17 on third gen steelie rims. Even though my final ratio is closer now it seems like I still can't break over 19mpg tank average. My average overall with 35 inch tires was around 18-18.5 and now it seems like my average has gone up just a little to 18.7-18.9. I've been playing around with the timing still on the quad but no matter what timing I'm at it seems like it really doesn't make a difference. I'm at 1870 rpms @ 65mph and that's the speed I drive at most of the time. The only thing I can think of is my rotating mass. The 35's were on 17 inch alluminum rims and these other tires are on the steel ones. I…

OK, I have all the bits together to install my 2nd hand Juice w Attitude. First step in the instructions is to disconnect the batteries (remove both neg terminals). I'm a bit spooked to do that - am I going to wipe out programs in my ECM/PCM? Will I have to reprogram the throttle position sensor? Will my auto trans start to do flaky things after I reconnect the batteries? Or will it be like most other vehicles, no big deal, no worries.Sorry for the stupid question, just want to be prepared. Thanks for your patience.Joe in St Louis

Hello again all, Howdy folks been awhile since i logged in but just got back from our first trip to our favorite campsite on the lake. This was the first time going to this site with this camper (This site is the farthest and has the most hill's and curve's). So i'll put the info up on my setup: Truck: 2001 Dodge 3500 ex.cab LB Dually 4x4 5.9 HO Cummins 24valve 6 speed 3:54 gear's Upgrade's: Motor wise BHAF, Aftermarket intake horn, Fass 150gph Fuel pump, Bank's Big head wastegate, of course EGT, Fuel pressure, Boost gauge's. Tranny wise South Bend 3250 Dual disk clutch, South Bend Upgraded Slave/Master cly. Hitch: Reese fifth Wheel Rail's with Ree…

The wife is letting me spend some money on the truck, so here's what I need. 1. I just rolled over 250k miles, I know the head gaskets have a tendency to let go around now. I was thinking of doing it pre-emptively and tossing in some head studs. Is that wise or should I just wait for it to fail on it's own. What brand of head gasket should I use, I have access to Fel-Pro and Mahle at work or I can go to the local Cummins shop. I would have the head checked and worked over while it's off as well. 2. I know I need injectors, I'm probably still on the original ones. I have noticed my MPG's have dropped a bit in the last year and I am clouding …