2nd Generation Dodge 12 Valve Powertrain

Does the head end of fuel injector line have some type of Teflon grommet or is a metal to metal contact. Could I clean up the cross over tubes and replace the o-rings and re-use them. I cleaned up cross over tube for #1 cylinder. It is pitted.

Getting the money together to finally get the manual trans for the project. I know a NV4500 is a pretty easy swap out as it was stock, and I've been in contacts with high-impact.net for the parts. I know the NV5600 entails a bit more of a challenge (a poster had a link to a thread of someone else's swap) so that CAN be done. But I was wondering if anyone has grafted a G56 to a 12 valve 6bt?

I went to the dodge dealer and he said that atf +4 had to be used in my nv4500. He said it superceded the old oil and when he typed in the part number it kept coming back to the atf +4 so I'm wondering if I can use it.

My fuel heater is leaking and I'm wondering if anyone is running without it in cold weather; like a few weeks ago it was -20F and with the wind chill was -40F.

Are they both controlled by the pcm? What about the power mirrors? Please delete wrong section Please delete

Anyone try to get a hold of them lately? I called and left 2 messages over the last two days and also emailed? Is there a better phone number? Please delete wrong section

Well as many of you know if started a new job about a month ago that has a bunch of green techs that think diesel tune-ups are difficult to do. The boss is more than pleased with my expertise and experience. Yesterday I was asked to diagnose a bad oil leak on a hostler which turned out to be a tappet cover. What I found odd is when I lifted the cab to find a 6BT with a VP44. I had to snap a picture to share. It is a 2002 model year.

I have a 12 valve and I have a manifold and turbo from a 2005 would it make any difference if I were to put the 05 gear on the 97.

So, I got my first quote back for rebuild....erf...gut punch...Anyone have a recommendation in Minnesota for a rebuild? The first one back from the local Cummins rebuild is $12k+....or is that about right? Budgets need to know... Sorry in advance if this has already been discussed and I could not find it in a search.

Thinking about getting another Dodge Diesel for towing and have found a great looking 97 12 valve Duelly long bed. Only 166,000 miles on it. I want to go through it, pull the bed off and build a flatbed for it to haul my quads and possibly tow my travel trailer. I currently have a 2000 5 speed that is great but thinking of adding another one to my stable. I’m just wondering what the weak link, Achilles heal is on them, like the lift pump is on the 98.5 to 02 models. How are they to build for torque and power for towing?

95 5.9 , My #9, 10 amp engine fuse on the inside of cab fuse box is blowing. Tach and spedo, were not showing, so I traced it to here. Any ideas as to what could be causing this overload? Any help is greatly appreciated. Found an article on intake manifold heater problems. Seems I need to check resistance here. http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/troubleshooting/Maniford_htr.htm

Looking for transmission cooling soft line kit for my 1996 dodge ram Cummins 12v truck, has 4x4, 47re transmission. Hard lines keep rubbing and cracking. Need help please.

Jumped in the rig (1996 2500, A/T, 2wd) and the truck had a really lazy slow crank like the batteries were dead. Batteries tested "good", new fuel filter, new lift pump. Truck just slowly cranks unless you push the throttle a fraction of an inch. Puff of black smoke and presto, she's running. Idles smoothly, runs solid in town and on highway. Anyone else have the same issue? I've read that these p-pumps were designed to be started at open throttle, but I never used to have to do this. Truck is stock, no mods. Thanks for the time.

I'm going to install a drain plug in the transmission pan of my truck. I'm going to use the drain plug for my temp gauge also. Where in the pan is the best place to put it so it doesn't interfere with anything. Bob

Picked this up the other night. Cracked timing case, no fuel or air, but was only $250 with 167k on it. Now to find the project vehicle! It’s currently between a 70’s F350, a 07 Super Duty, or a 70’s D600 farm truck. Thoughts?

The truck is basically stock, except I have installed a Heath wastegate controller (spring type). Truck has 270K on it. I finally installed fuel and boost pressure gauges in my 96. When cold fuel pressure is 30 pounds at idle, 38 pounds at 2000 rpm's. At operating temp idle pressure is 22, at 2000 rpm's 32 - 34. Is this with in specs? My boost running down the road with my my car trailer on hauling a ton is 6 - 8 pounds. Maximum boost that I can get is 28 pounds. Again is this good or could it be better? Bob

I just did the did tappet cover on my 95 12v 3500. Got it all back together and timed right (I think). Anyways the trucks smokes white when you give it throttle and acts like it has a rev limiter and doesn’t have much power. Is my timing out but close enough to run? or could it be my fuel filter? Tia need all the help I can get thanks!

Hello folks! My '95 2500 shows ~42 psi (factory guage) at start up in warm weather. Drops to abt 35 at warm idle. Stays abt 40 at hwy speed. Just changed oil with 15/40 Rotella and 1 qt Lucas Oil Stabilizer with Mopar filter.I My brother's 96 shows about 70 at idle and I am wondering if mine should be higher, or just an indicator issue. Found out my pressure switch/sender is on L side. I thought it was behind the oil filter. (Stupid eh) Obviously a mechanical guage would eliminate pressure questionability. Probably add one soon! But what should it be?

Hey everyone, So where do I start.. So about 30,000 miles ago I had a transmission built for my truck since my last one imploded. This transmission has never "felt right." The problem I'm having is as you probably guessed it 5th gear loss. What keeps happening is I keep losing the countershaft retainer (snap ring.) This is a 1999 dodge and I do that the thicker version of this snap ring. I have replaced this 4 times now. Which is getting expensive due to gear oil prices. I have had just about enough of this failure. Has anyone found a reason why this happens? What I have checked is 5th gear nut tightness, splines and just the usual over look of everything there.…

Trucks a 1998 dodge ram 3500 12v 47re so here is my issue the truck starts off in 3rd gear i can shift to 2nd manually but not 1st if I go to neutral then 1st it will go into first and the truck will only shift to overdrive and lockup sometimes but when it does it wont downshift unless I go to neutral then drive or down to 2nd my speedometer doesn't work sometimes it just bounces around or it floats up and down there are 4 codes that are coming up on the code reader i have attached a photo of the codes I just need help on what to buy to fix my problem im also including a photo of some kind of resistor on the pcm that the previous owner installed and some kind of overdrive…