New guy here, first time diesel owner.   Somebody traded in a 02 2500  6spd 4x4 at work with 163k.  It was going to be wholesaled so I got a pretty good deal on it.  I've been reading everything I can trying to familiarize myself with the truck, but I do have some questions.  

It appears to be completely stock with the exception of a boost gauge that was mounted in one of those pillar pods.  I didn't care for the location of it, so I removed it and currently have no boost gauge.  Since the truck had no boost gauge from the factory and my plans, at least for the foreseeable future is to keep it stock, is it okay to not have a boost gauge.  I'm not heavy footed and have no plans to haul or pull much more than some dirt in the bed or a small  camper.

2 stoke oil.  I've read numerous things on how these trucks benefit from adding 2stoke (1oz to 1 gal of fuel?).  How critical is that ratio?  I filled up yesterday (35 gal tank) and added 1 qt of 2stroke (not quite 1oz to 1 gal).  I added the oil first and then fueled up so it would mix well.

This is one of those really ignorant questions, as I don't know of any other way.  But I'll ask anyway.  On future fill ups, will adding the 2stroke after filling with fuel be okay?  So I'll know how much oil to add.  Will it mix good on it's own?

Idle.  Where should these trucks idle?  Mine was about 850 rpm but within about 20 miles of adding the 2stroke it jumped up to 950-1000 rpm.  That okay?

Temp.  So far the temp gauge stays just a little below the 190* mark.  I guess around 180-185*.  I couldn't find it, but I think I remember reading somewhere that these trucks run best with the temp no less than 200 or 205 (can't quite remember).  Should I replace the tstat with something higher?  If so, any particular brands you recommend.   OEM the best?

I guess that's it for now.  Thanks in advance for responses. I'm sure I'll have many more questions down the road.   

Edited October 29, 20168 yr by CudaDude

You got the last year of a great truck! Boost gauge isn't necessary but more of a tool to me, it's nice to check for boost leaks and engine performance. I always carried one of those clear funnels with tubes from Walmart and added 1oz per gallon of 2stroke after each fuel up with good results. Idle should be the same at all times unless it's cold outside and high idleing to aid in warmup. Truck should have a 190* t stat and run between 188-194 so I wouldn't change a thing. Good luck with the new truck and post up some pics if you've get them.

You are a lucky person to get that truck. Especially since it's unmolested by EPA and previous owner.

 

Most important is that you read up on fuel pressure on that truck and will need a fuel pressure gauge..

Welcome to the forum as a must I'd put a fuel pressure gauge for the low pressure system and put an aftermarket lift pump on it to keep the vp44 happy any info u need on it the people here will be happy to help u 

Is it auto or manual

Welcome to the forum, that is a good find. I personally have never been exact on the 2 stroke. I normally fill up around when the fuel light comes on which is about a 32 gallon fill up for me. Might go a little longer or less so I am not always exactly 1 oz per gallon but close. Lot of opinions on that and I am not saying any one is wrong, just my opinion.

 Fuel pressure gauge is something you want to look into soon. To low a fuel pressure can ruin your injection pump and get expensive. There are alot of good articles on this in the articles section. You might look into a aftermarket fuel pump unless one might be on there already.

 The idle should be steady all the time after the engine temp is up.

 

You have a good truck there and few improvements will make it a great truck. I have 387k on my 02 and she is still going strong. Enjoy the journey. You will find plenty of help here.

(sorry still leaning how to edit)

 

 

 

6 minutes ago, 015point9 said:

Congrats on your truck.  I'm new also.  Great bunch of people here.

I’ve owned mine since 05.  Initially, I bought because I saw at work how these 5.9’s were abused and kept on running.   Figured if I got one and just took care of it, it would last a long time.  Until recently it has performed great.  Until last spring the only thing I’ve replaced was the water pump.  Now having a minor fuel problem and today will be spent looking up at the underside.  Sorry, but I don’t like working on them.  That’s why I got one.  They will last a long time.   Wife and I RV around the US about ½ the year and not unusual meeting up with folks to talk about how many miles someone has.  Lots of 300k miles plus out there.  Also not unusual for people with brand new stuff to tell us how much they miss there older 5.9  and in same breath tell us just how good there $60,000 new truck is. 

I would get a couple gauges that would save you money down the road. 

---EGT gauge…idle down to 3 1/2 or 4 before shutting off motor.  Oil in turbo “cokes” up after a time if shut down at higher temps.  And I don't go over 12 going up hills or hard pulls with wife's trailer.

---Fuel pressure gauge… The achilles heel of these things is the VP44 injection pump.  Learn all you can about the fuel system.  And don’t fall for only putting in a “low fuel pressure light”.   Like I did.  Put in an actual gauge.

---After meeting a retired Cummins engineer my maintenance schedule last couple of years is,  whatever the book says minus  10 percent.

 

 

 

Edited October 29, 20168 yr by 015point9

Thanks for the advice.  I'll look into fuel pressure gauges asap.  First I'll need to find a little more discreet gauge pod than what was on the a pillar, although I don't see a lot of room for gauges elsewhere.  Couple more questions-

 

I'm going to replace the old foggy headlamps but looks like I need to remove the batteries in order to get to the back of them.  Is there anything I should be aware of when disconnecting/reconnecting the batteries, like ECM re learn? 

 

Any recommendations on a reasonably priced quiet exhaust system?  The PO did remove the muffler but left a resonator and I'd like to quiet it down.  Figured I'd go ahead and just run a complete new system.

Edited October 29, 20168 yr by CudaDude

4 hours ago, CudaDude said:

Thanks for the advice.  I'll look into fuel pressure gauges asap.  First I'll need to find a little more discreet gauge pod than what was on the a pillar, although I don't see a lot of room for gauges elsewhere.  Couple more questions-

 

I'm going to replace the old foggy headlamps but looks like I need to remove the batteries in order to get to the back of them.  Is there anything I should be aware of when disconnecting/reconnecting the batteries, like ECM re learn? 

 

Any recommendations on a reasonably priced quiet exhaust system?  The PO did remove the muffler but left a resonator and I'd like to quiet it down.  Figured I'd go ahead and just run a complete new system.

Any 4" kit should suit your needs.  Pipe is pipe.  I got my aFe kit for $300.  Another $100 for my resonator and $30 in spray paint.  You have a quad cab/long bed so you should not have to cut any pipe during your install (I didn't have to for mine).      

 

Things to consider...

 

Stainless or aluminized?

FTE Resonator or muffler or both (lots of options)?

Spray paint exhaust? (I did mine with high heat paint and it turned out nice...just to prevent rust)

 

 

Edited October 30, 20168 yr by sooxies

If I remember correctly, I was able to replace my headlight housings without removing the batteries. There should be like 2-3 screws between the light and the top of the bumper you can get to from the front. If you do end up pulling the batteries you can either just do one at a time so you dont loose power or when you do hook the batteries back up just slowly push the gas pedal in three times. That will reset the Apps sensor. Everything else should be good to go.

 

Definitely get on the fuel pressure gauge train. I personally like the Isspro gauges. Your fuel pressure should ideally be between 15-20psi to the injection at all times. The minimum safe pressure is 10psi before damage can happen to the injection pump. It uses the fuel to cool and lubricate the injection pump so a lack of pressure is no good.

 

The idle speed changing sounds like a possible bad APPS sensor. That is the problem mine had when it died. If after you shut it down and restart the idle returns to normal I would look at replacing the Apps with a Timbo sensor.

 

If you are still running the factory lift pump you may want to consider upgrading to a Fass or Airdog pump of some kind. The factory pumps (even the factory recall in-tank pumps) arent very reliable and dont hold the pressure up very well.

 

Other than that you got one heck of a truck!! That thing should last you years!! Good luck with it!

Your high idle is from the cold coolant. If you got a proper thermostat 190* it should idle at about 800 RPM's. I typically use a NAPA 190*F thermostat and not had any issues with them.

Gauges...You're going to have to figure out what you want.  Mechanical or elec.  I just got an elec Autometer pressure gauge last month because it matched my series of gauges.  At the time didn't know that Isspro has an elec pressure gauge that has built in programmable warning light.  If doing it over again I would seriously consider. 

11 hours ago, 015point9 said:

At the time didn't know that Isspro has an elec pressure gauge that has built in programmable warning light.

 

 

 

Look to Fuel Boss from Glacier Diesel for your lift pump. You'll never regret switching the lift pump to mechanical! Also be sure to look into a snubber and needle valve on your fuel pressure gauge line. 

3 hours ago, leathermaneod said:

Look to Fuel Boss from Glacier Diesel for your lift pump. You'll never regret switching the lift pump to mechanical! Also be sure to look into a snubber and needle valve on your fuel pressure gauge line. 

I'll second that.