Just when I think I've come up with a logical solution to what's not really a problem, I see that Robert Bosch's company has beat me to it.
http://www.dieselmechanic.info/common-rail/bosch-common-rail-system-intercooler-bypass.html

However, I think mine would be operated by a choke cable, and maybe later an additional IAT sensor and a stepper motor.

Yikes!  Moving parts between the turbo and the engine?

 

- John

42 minutes ago, Tractorman said:

Yikes!  Moving parts between the turbo and the engine?

 

- John

100's of Millions of carburetors and/or throttle bodies are offended.

And why would you want to bypass the intercooler on something that has no aftertreatment system, modern diesels use an intercooler bypass of sorts to raise the engine temperatures to assist the DPF to regenerate but engine internals are made using materials that can stand the higher temps needed

3 hours ago, LorenS said:

100's of Millions of carburetors and/or throttle bodies are offended.

 

I knew someone might mention that because I thought of it myself, but I just couldn't resist.  I apologize to any offended throttle bodies.  

- John

 

9 hours ago, wil440 said:

why would you want to bypass the intercooler

Warmer IAT at low loads and cold days. Even with my winter front and a 30 mile interstate commute my IAT doesn't surpass 80 degrees. First few years had no intercooler, great mileage. My 2nd Gen has intercooler, but not great mileage.

 

Essentially this is what the thermostat in the engine does, or the thermostatic control for oil coolers. If the fluid isn't too hot, it isn't sent to the cooler.

Edited January 23, 20214 yr by LorenS

I like this idea. Not 100% sure how you would plumb it at the moment owing to the lack of real estate under the hood. I think you might be able to get away with some hotrod esque exhaust cutouts. They have air/vac and solenoid operated and in the sizes needed without being stupid expensive. Some Y's are easy enough to find. 

Block the entire radiator with card board. Some say not to but I do and have not seen any negative effects.  Just remember to pull it or fold it in half if outside temp gets above 40deg

Just now, Evan said:

Block the entire radiator with card board. Some say not to but I do and have not seen any negative effects.  Just remember to pull it or fold it in half if outside temp gets above 40deg

Those foam floor mats in kitchens and stores, no worrying about water, and if the truck breaks, you have a pad.

12 hours ago, That Guy said:

Not 100% sure how you would plumb it at the moment

Me, neither. But still seems like a good idea.

12 hours ago, Evan said:

Block the entire radiator with card board

If I did that, I wouldn't need a thermostat for my coolant, right? Just pull over every several miles and tweak the cardboard!

 

I like the plastic political signs. "Vote for Harry Wanker". They're waterproof and small enough to not block the entire radiator.  Can leave in there until it's about 50 degrees. It doesn't block my oil cooler. I live in KC, not Duluth, MN nor South Padre, TX so 1/2 coverage is good. Towing would be another matter.

I run a piece of cardboard in mine for the winter time. It does not get terribly cold out my way but it helps. I block half the radiator and add another piece if it really gets cold where I might be. I have never had the wet weather destroy the card board. 

just remember to get all the cardboard out....   I would put a half cardboard on a chevy I had.  It slipped perfectly between the condenser and the radiator....   I guess it fell in a bit far for me to see and I forgot to pull it.  nearing summer I was running hot and infrared gun showed only half of my radiator was cool, the other hot.  (one would think this woulda sparked some brain activity..... but nooooo)    So bad radiator....  I was so mad when I got the old radiator out.....

 

Don't pull a Haggar.

 

lol

Hag

The welcome mat on the front porch has been working well for me, at least in the spring time when I realize its missing I remember where its at.

Why would you need all that?

 

MPG mode (of the high idle kit) retards the timing on cold starts. As IAT falls below 80*F then the ECM stacks on another +3 to +4 degrees of timing. Like myself I run the Quadzilla at a 140*F mode so I can switch over to my custom timing quickly. Usually 2 to 3 miles towards New Meadows which is up hill I'm nearly fully warmed up. Now heading down canyon towards Riggins I only need about 5 to 8 miles. Like for winter operation I cover my grill face so no cold air is blowing over the intercooler. Like my last trip to Lewiston I managed to stuff my stick in between the froks and was stuck in 4th gear running 2,300 RPM all the way to the top of the grade. The fan was able to lock and still keep the coolant in check at about 197 to 200*F. Once I got to the top took me about 20 minutes to pull the stick out of the transmission reset the fork and get on my way again.  

4 hours ago, Haggar said:

ust remember to get all the cardboard out....   I would put a half cardboard on a chevy I had.  It slipped perfectly between the condenser and the radiator....   I guess it fell in a bit far for me to see and I forgot to pull it.  nearing summer I was running hot and infrared gun showed only half of my radiator was cool, the other hot.  (one would think this woulda sparked some brain activity..... but nooooo)    So bad radiator....  I was so mad when I got the old radiator out.....

 

Don't pull a Haggar.

 

That is a great story!  Some of the most embarrassing things we do are the best teachers! 

 

Once onboard my ship when I was in the Navy (back when I knew everything) I was assigned the task of filling a grease gun from a container of grease. Well, that should be simple enough.  I removed the head of the grease gun, pulled out the plunger against its internal spring and hooked the T-handle under the edge of a workbench table top.  I kept tension by holding the barrel upward with one hand while putting grease into the top of the barrel with the other hand.  All was going well until the T-handle slipped and the top of the barrel came up and hit my chin.  That hurt, but the event wasn't over.   With the open end of the grease gun firmly imbedded into my chin, the grease discharged up past my mouth into my nose and filled the cavity between my glasses and my right eye.  I froze while contemplating my situation, but I was even more focused on another thought..., did anyone see this happen?  Fortunately for me, no one did.  It took a long time to clean up the mess.  I still had one problem; I was right back where I started - I needed to fill the grease gun.  So, this time I studied the grease a bit and I noticed the lock tab to hold the plunger in place when it was pulled out.  Things went better after that.  When I returned to the group with a full grease gun, I was asked why it took so long.  My answer was not truthful.

 

- John

11 minutes ago, Tractorman said:

 

That is a great story!  Some of the most embarrassing things we do are the best teachers! 

 

Once onboard my ship when I was in the Navy (back when I knew everything) I was assigned the task of filling a grease gun from a container of grease. Well, that should be simple enough.  I removed the head of the grease gun, pulled out the plunger against its internal spring and hooked the T-handle under the edge of a workbench table top.  I kept tension by holding the barrel upward with one hand while putting grease into the top of the barrel with the other hand.  All was going well until the T-handle slipped and the top of the barrel came up and hit my chin.  That hurt, but the event wasn't over.   With the open end of the grease gun firmly imbedded into my chin, the grease discharged up past my mouth into my nose and filled the cavity between my glasses and my right eye.  I froze while contemplating my situation, but I was even more focused on another thought..., did anyone see this happen?  Fortunately for me, no one did.  It took a long time to clean up the mess.  I still had one problem; I was right back where I started - I needed to fill the grease gun.  So, this time I studied the grease a bit and I noticed the lock tab to hold the plunger in place when it was pulled out.  Things went better after that.  When I returned to the group with a full grease gun, I was asked why it took so long.  My answer was not truthful.

 

- John

 

Ive had a few of those.... "did anybody see me, no? okay hurry up and clean it up"

 

Edited January 25, 20214 yr by That Guy

1 hour ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Why would you need all that?

 

1 hour ago, Mopar1973Man said:

As IAT falls below 80*F

IAT can't drop below 80F if it never rises above 80F to begin with. Hence the bypass acting like the thermostat in the block.

My commute to work is over 20 miles of interstate and my IAT doesn't reach 80 F.  37 degrees this morning, winter grille blockers, and a political sign to block off half of intercooler/radiator. Fuel temp around 50 - 60 F.

Last couple of tanks have been below 17 MPG.

About normal. Mine has been floating 17 to 18 MPG. Now like my last trip I took a scenic route to town and slowed down to 55 MPH. I popped up to 19 MPG. I would be really looking at opting for a 200*F thermostat which will bring the IAT temp up. This winter for me has been mild and the weather floating 30 to 40*F. I didn't opt for the hotter thermostat. Remember colder the air more time it takes to heat the fuel to vapor to go BANG! Cold air is not a friend of MPG at all. I've never seen a reason to bypass the intercooler even with -20*F to -40*F winters. 

 

As one who has neither the high idle or the Quad the cardboard will have to suffice. I have the winter fronts but the temps here differ to much. I was always having to remove or add one. 

 I have just over half the radiator blocked. Not sure on IAT but I will look tomorrow, if I can remember to.

Just get yourself an EGR... that will warm up your IAT's :-)

 

16° when I left the house this morning and 23° when I got to work. All back roads and I got ~16-16.5 mpg. I don't have an issue with the ECT or IAT, as the IAT runs about 110°-120° but the dang trans never warms up. Pulled thru the gate after 15 miles with it at 123° and it crept up to 144° by the time I parked a mile later, but that mile is all with an unlocked torque converter, unlike the majority of the drive. 

 

Yesterday I took the interstate got just under 18 mpg but the trans was even cooler... oh well. My winter front is off right now since I've been towing. 

 

 

I would block off more than just the radiator. On my 05 the OEM winter front went side to side under the hood and blocked it all, so much that I had to add some velcro to allow airflow over the ambient temp sensor in the lower drivers side corner. There were 4 flaps that could be opened/closed. I generally ran with 4 open above 30° to 50°+, 3 open 20°-30°, etc.. all 4 closed and well sub zero was still a challenge to warm up but held it better. The 05's was much more efficient at keeping temps in than the 18's that just blocks the grill. The 18's works well, but not as well. 

 

You can see here how much they block off. https://www.genosgarage.com/product/winter-fr-9402/winter

 

 

As far as the intercooler bypass I doubt you would see very hot air at low boost as there isn't any compression going on, so I'd steer clear of that endeavor as it would likely ever pay for itself. 

I know that @AH64ID mention to me a while back that exhaust brakes are a double hit. First the exhaust brake can help warm up the IAT being some of the compression gas blow back in the intake. But the bad side is it will put more carbon in your oil during warm up. Even just if I cycle up and down like power up to say 70 MPH and then let my exhaust brake pull me down to 55 MPH I can create IAT pretty fast. I've got my entire grill covered.