Mopar1973Man

I use Supertech Power steering fluid and usually purge the system out by unhooking a return line and routing to a waste bucket. This way you flush both the steering box and the hydro-booster with fresh fluid instead of turkey baster method which doesn't flush the system out too well of debris. ATF is not suppose to be used in our systems. But 2003 and up was ATF IIRC. Howling noise might be wheel bearings failing and would cause the ABS issues as well. The wheel bearing will lean over a bit and the tone wheel will be out of line with the ABS speed sensors. If you replace ABS sensors you MUST do them in pairs!

Water hammer pulses can run a long way depending on pressures and flows. But for our fuel system the stock filter can help reduce the pulses. Like here is water hammer with about 116-118 PSI of pressure. The reason why fuel pressure senders fail if the fuel system has valving that opens and closes that creates water hammer pulses where oil pressure is constant flow this why oil pressure sender don't fail as often as a electric fuel pressure sender.

Engine vibration I think is a bit off too. Why only fuel pressure senders? MAP sensor and Oil Pressure sensor both bolt directly to the engine and last much longer. Still a water hammer issue seems to primary problem being neither oil pressure or MAP sensors are failing from vibration. Even the grease gun hose never resolved the vibration problem because the vibration is the fuel as there is like roughly 2,500 pulse per minute (~42 pulses per second) as the VP44 opens and closes just at idle. Put you hand on the fuel line going into the pump you can even feel the pulses in the rubber hose.

Absolutely. Speed is the number one killer of MPG's numbers. But when you math out speed and time you'll be surprise how little it effects. Like a trip to Boise, ID for me is 180 miles. Answer below are typical MPG empty (Gross weight 7,600#). 55 MPH = 3.2 hours = 23 MPG 65 MPH = 2.7 hours = 18 MPG Now with the Jayco (GCW 16,820#) 55 MPH = 3.2 hours = 13 MPG 65 MPH = 2.7 hours = 9 MPG

I still curious about the performance wise on dirt like AH64ID would be doing plus the life span.

I actually got mine so cold (35-38*F vent temp) that you gotta roll down the windows to warm up. So I hope now that the pressure holds up for the summer and no leak are occurring.

Grease gun hose is a Internet myth you must use a needle valve and adjust the needle down for slow rise of pressure. Electric senders must be screw into a grounded fitting with a snubber or needle valve as far from the VP44 as possible. Water hammer pulses come from the Vp44. Electric sender fuel pressure gauges are highly prone to failure. Mechanicals fuel pressure gauges with direct plumb RARELY ever fail. Just for the point I've got DiPricol gauges the company is long gone and still got my original fuel pressure gauge working 10 years later.

I also say do it yourself. It not hard just take your time while you got the valve cover off make sure to adjust the valve lash too.

Not really I've no seen anything here that I couldn't handle with my old stock 3" straight pipe and my current fuel system (+50HP and the Edge Comp). I can see stupid high EGT's but I got to be driving stupid fast too. So if I drive like a normal white man then no problems.

Double check your pressures at about 1,500 RPM's and verify the pressures still hold up about 35 PSI on the low side. It doesn't do any good to charge the system up for idle because most people drive there truck not just start and let the idle in a parking lot for A/C.

Here is a bunch of YouTube Videos on it... https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=bundy+ranch

As for what I can see IAT sensor ECT Sensor MAP Sensor (but the value is incorrect on mine but newer version seem to be corrected with a boost gauge) GPH flow of fuel burned Load of Engine RPM MPH HP (Calculated HP at the flywheel) Charging volts There are more...

6-7% grade at 65 MPH empty truck I'm right at 1,000 to 1,100*F But now hitch up the RV and use 4th gear at about 53-55 MPH I'm about the same EGT's but now going from 7,600 pounds empty to hitched and loaded at almost 17,000 pounds. WOT run from 55 to nearly 90-95 MPH I'll tip over 1,400*F just flat kicking the pig.

I show 2.0 hrs for injectors for all six injectors. So I would say MoparTech is close enough for the rest... I've heard some out outrageous prices for injection pump installs and other things...

I'm due to flush both water heaters out here. I've normally get a bit of mud from the well from spring runoff. But MoparTech is right the cold water flows into the bottom of the tank so the hot water is rising to the top and still feeding the house. But the drain is at the bottom so it will nearly always run cold water. I typically cut the water supply to it and drain it completely out and the turn the water on to allow the force of the water hopefully to stir the junk in the bottom up and drain out.

Glad to see your OK. I was starting to get concerned about you if you got hurt or something. I even went as far as dig up your actual home phone number and was getting ready to call you. I even went as fair as checking the information by Google Maps and finding your RV in your yard.

Be aware that any debris is going to settle to the bottom of the caliper and wheel cylinder (if equipped)

Like myself I've got a ScanGauge II for code reading and reading live data of the engine.

Seriously the 3 forgotten fluids to change on these trucks are. 1. Brake Fluid 2. Power Steering Fluid 3. Coolant

There is a balance between upkeep maintenance and failing vehicle. I know the difference. I had a 1972 Dodge Power Wagon that was this way it seem like every time I turned around I was off to a wrecking yard looking for part for this old beast. This way a reason I bought my truck new in 02.

PM Sent...

Just a mild swap of 265's to 235's will rid that problem. They are both 31" tires just the 235's are 1.18" (30 mm) narrower and 0.04" (1 mm) inches taller (1 rev per mile more). But the 235's are roughly 23 pounds lighter over the 265's. Look better on 16x7 wheel vs 16.5x7 stock wheels.

When you get to pulling the heads off look at the head gasket closely and see if the coolant seal was rotted out from corrosive coolant. Being that Lincoln doesn't have a turbo and high compression ratios I doubt it was compression caused.

Hey diesel4life do you happen to have that part number of that thermostat? I would like to order one.

I've hear the same thing too that ATF should not be used in these truck because of a some design difference. I know people do it all the time but typically the net result is steering box that leaks or other issues.