Mopar1973Man

That's a question I can't get answered... Why is that only RV's require a Weight Distribution Hitch where most all utility trailers don't? Like my Fire Chief has utility box trailers that gross more weight than my RV but don't require a WD hitch. Even my BigTex 70TV is really close to the RV in weights but doesn't require a WD hitch either. But some can hitch up to a bumper bull flat bed trailer grossing 13,000 to 14,000 with a tractor no problem without a WD hitch but on the flip side RV requires (or highly suggested). Why is this?

Doesn't hurt. Live data tool (like ScanGauge II) would do just fine if you want to watch engine data.

Typically our trucks can haul roughly 9,000 to 13,000 pound trailers. Hitch weight of about 900 to 1,300 (~10%).

HX35W turbo is a 12cm2 exhaust housing and a HY35W turbo is a 9cm2 exhaust housing.

Funny how a isolator can make a quality mechanical fuel pressure gauge in to read junk pressures.

Diesel Auto Power or Vulcan Performance is my only two I deal with being they sell VP44's with a new PSG unit on top where you pay extra money at Blue Chip for new PSG, NAPA I can't confirm if the PSG is new or where they get rebuilt.

Sign of a bad ECM. WTS light should come on for a bulb check each time.

Yea the P0216 code... Mechanical failure of the injection pump on the timing piston. It seems your pump has taken on damage. I would clear the code and see if the code returns.

Actually no. Because if you truly running for MPG's you boost should be below 5 PSI if so there is no flowing exhaust really (Back pressure). I'm still running 3" exhaust just straight piped and no issues at all with MPG's. Actually you find slightly warmer intake air temps promote better MPGs more than anything. Between 100-140*F you'll get you better MPG than colder air will.

DW I could and you didn't even swing up into Idaho to say "Hi!"... Geez...

I found a article a while back that explains a weird behavior of the IAT sensor. Say for example the IAT is forced 143*F, the coolant is actually 195*F and the outside temperature is <60*F you go start the Wait To Start doesn't give any grid heat pre-starting but post-starting there is grid heat. But now if the outside temperature rises to 100*F now there is neither pre-start grid heat or post-start grid heat. The only sensor left on the truck that can sense temperature is battery temp sensor. So the best I can say is the PCM communicates this information to the ECM over the CCD network. Battery temp sensor is designed for controlling charging voltage vs. temperature. But the article I did find the system will use some of the information from the battery temp sensor when and what I'm not sure exactly.

SRW to DRW really doesn't change the carrying capacity of the truck. It just make for a more stable ride that's all. Like adding training wheels to your truck.

Could be any measurement you want for ratio it can be gallons, ounces or even liters. 128:1 Ratio. 128 Gallons of fuel to 1 gallon of oil. 128 Ounces of fuel to 1 ounce of oil. 128 Liters of fuel to 1 liter of oil. All are the same.

That rattle is caused by any performance module. But as boost rises the timing should retard which it does typically. Also the colder the air is the worse the problem gets so warming the air reduces the timing rattle and does produce better MPG for daily driver.

I had one break a wire and so I bought just one sensor. The ABS/BRAKE light remained on till I replace the other sensor then it went out. Even Wild & Free had the same problem.

Still cleaning the RV yet...

Something seems off. What kind of hitch bumper pull or 5th wheel? Are you dual rear axle or single?

Out here its called "Life Flight membership" if you have a medical emergency and life flight is needed then it won't cost you anything if your a member. All they need is dispatcher or a EMS tech to call for it give GPS location and they will come. Even then with country we got they might require EMS to truck you several miles to a LZ for Life Flight to use.

More... Well as for myself I live in rural Idaho and see people living check to check and barely scrapping by. But its such a shocker to go to like Ontario, OR or Boise, ID and see people driving high dollar vehicles, speeding, and shopping till they drop. Totally unreal! Then after getting a load of that for the day I'm more than happy to stroll back up to the mountain cruising at 55-60 MPH. See the run down town of New Meadows, ID I'm happy to see home is just around the corner. I've got no problem living on a tight budget. Thinking about budgets... I know this is thread hijacking... But even the budget of the site is running down hill.

All so common people don't set there sublevels correctly and then suffer from lack of power issues. Or even more common is people on Edge Juice setting the alarms and limits too low and defueling the performance when its needed most.

Grab a standard 30A relay and wire pins 85 and 86 to the lift pump circuit and the code should be stopped then just clear the codes and drive for awhile. Remember all AirDog fuel systems are triggered by a 30A relay.

I was speaking of daily driving. So if your measuring WOT which is more or less no holds bar then the cc flow rate would be higher that stock and the pulse length would most likely be the same (in theory). So yes the RV275 injectors where for the 275 HP RV edition of the Cummins ISB. Just another stock injector. Simple way to show it. Take a 80 PSI water source. Then 2 separate hoses. One hose is going to be a standard 5/8 inch garden hose and the other will be a 1" inch fire hose. Now open the valve at the same time and leave open for say 10 seconds (The delivery time the ECM commands - in theory) and close together. Now measure the water delivered by both. Of course the 1" hose will flow more. The fact is the VP44 is only going to produce like 18,000 to 20,000 PSI (Guessing here) and the pressure will be the same with both injectors but the total flow amount will different. Hence HP increase with larger injectors.

You might want to hook up with LiveOak here or go over to www.tractorfarmandfamily.com and talk to TFFAdmin either way you'll find Randy he's also a beekeeper as well.

Opps my back though it was 2nd Gen... (Backing out of the door slowly)

As fair as I've ever found about the PCM/ECM on the Dodge Ram truck there is no learning cycle. So in other words if the truck is modified the ECM/PCM have no clue no do they change fuelling or timing tables unless the modification is designed to do it. Say like injectors the ECM is only going to fuel X amount of cc's fuel for Y amount of load so it has no clue the injectors are bigger. But like now install Edge or Quadzilla the ECM does what its designed to do but the add on modification will modify the signal to the CANBUS and/or the wire tap on the pump. So even then the ECM really isn't aware of the modification. The only modification is a programmer like a Smarty where it directly changes the ECM software.