Mopar1973Man

Heck... I'm having a heat wave today at 41*F...

Nothing. Factory bore.

I would go tad lower personally so less damage is done to the relay, lift pump motor or wiring. Fuses are cheap but pumps and re-wiring a truck or fuel system could get a bit expensive. Best way to find out is measure the amperage used on the pump (or any circuit) and step up to the next fuse that clears the requirement. You can also look at wire gauge size too being that you can only get some many amps out of certain gauge wire then the smoke starts to happen.

Why is my AirDog 150 powered off a 15A fuse? 30A heck I could run two pumps on that...

Once again not enough to even worry about. Less than 1/2" might be gone by later this morning.

I would at least pull a vacuum on the system to rid the system of any moisture. The system should be capable of holding a vacuum for a very long time. This will prevent any moisture in causing rusting of parts or other issues later.

Well I would have to say check everything in the front end as well. Track bar is a good spot. But also check the ball joints, shocks, steering stabilizer, even tire balance. What we are looking for is loose parts or something that might contribute to oscillation.

Nothing to freak out about I know through RockAuto.Com the seal kit is roughly 2-3 bucks per caliper. I would just take all 4 calipers apart and clean them up and reseal them. Not hard to rebuild a caliper.

Another I forgot to mention is watch your lift pump operation too the ECM might shut down the lift pump as well.

If you unhook and of the top connectors the speedometer will drop dead. Speedometer signal comes from the ABS module so all the top plugs have to remain hooked. As for the motor connection you can leave that unhooked. Red tabbed connectors you just slide over and then squeeze the release and pull.

This might of been the reason for the ABS module cooking. The typical household battery charger might of had way too much AC noise and caused damage while cranking on the truck as the charger ran to it far limits of output. It's always been suggested to unhook the charger before starting.

Ahhh... Q: Did you have the battery charger hooked up while trying to start the truck?

When there is no longer any tach signal from the crank sensor then the PCM assumes the engine had stalled or been shutdown.

Always a good thing to go through all you basic diagnostics and testing first before throwing parts at anything.

As long as the speedometer is still functional you'll be fine. No. The only code thrown will be internal to the ABS module keeping the light running. The only way to see the code will be with the DRBIII tool since most ABS code are not sent as P codes except the P0500 code.

True. Depends on conditions of where you start.

Dusting here this morning. This ain't snow this is a tease...

ABS module burned up. Rather a common issue where the electronics switching of the module burns up the controller of the pump motor. Just for safety sake I would double check the alternator AC noise levels since a electronic device failed. But I look like now you need a ABS modules and a set of ABS sensors.

Glad you are OK Hex0rz. Little things like that can ruin a whole lifetime. Even like the Big Buddy heater I tend to still shy away from indoor burning heaters that are portable and not exhausted to the outside primary heating. I would use one if need be to warm the house up but I would rather use a fireplace than a propane heater.

Yes it might be true that the second fuel filter with heater doesn't do much good but as long as the fuel return to the take is above gel point it will aid in preventing gelling from occurring. The winter front idea will keep a warm pocket of air in the front of the truck. I've made mine from a old aluminum road sign. works good on both the 96 Gasser or the 02 Diesel.

Time to pull the drum off check the shoes and hardware. Then put the drums back on and adjust up the shoe slack manual till they lightly drag. I normally don't rely on the auto-adjusters at all.

On my 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 its also a rear drum braking system as well. I don't rely on the auto-adjusters to do their job I just make it part of my maintenance routine to check the shoe slack and adjust them up. Just only takes a few seconds. When rotating tires I'll take the time and pull the drum off and inspect the shoes and hardware for damages.

Still without snow. But been cold up here as well floating between 0-20*F,,, Might see 30's for a short bit but not enough to thaw the ic around here.

Mine also came with a blue plug pigtail for the brake controller and all I had to do is wire my controller to the pigtail and plugin.

Yes sir. 14-20 PSI is a good normal range of operation. Basically give you a 6 PSI swing area for fuel pressure drop. There is absolutely no reason to exceed 20 PSI it doesn't improve performance nor does it keep the pump lubed or cooled better being the return line is smaller than the supply line.