Mopar1973Man

AH64ID are you going to place a steel pan under the batteries? Even being a seal battery or AGM I would still place a steel plate or pan under the batteries for floor protection and to possibly capture any leaking electrolyte which is very rare for most sealed batteries but might happen.

Now looking back at this I wondered if a dead blow hammer would of freed it without breaking the cover?

Another way to just remove all 6 injectors and have them pop tested. As for Hex0rz oil drop method it does work but if you see it you best change oil too. Also you still don't know which injector(s) is causing this problem which removal and pop testing will do. But as cheap as injectors are it best to replace them all. P0645 http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/206-p0645-ac-clutch-relay-circuit P0500 http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/190-p0500-no-vehicle-speed-sensor-signal P1291 http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/212-p1291-no-temperature-rise-seen-from-intake-heaters

For the first 3-4 years was 5x5. (Maxed out!) Then after installing +50HP injectors I found 5x3 was optimal and nearly smokeless and that when I beat my previous record 25.3 MPG with 26.12 MPG (ScanGauge record was 27.2 MPG).

I look at it this way as long as there is no liquid in any pipes then it will never freeze. Because if air freezes we have new problem. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Liquid_air The boiling point of liquid air is approximately 78 K (-195 °C)(-319 F), and it freezes at approximately 58 K (-215 °C)(-355 F)

Funny how time will literally weld a part on the vehicle for you.

Pressure gauges I say mechanical. Temperature gauges I say electric.

I've heard of a lot of people doing this but you could just replace the o-rings too. It's a square cut o-ring from what I've heard and Cummins does stock them.

Just got another phone call about a dead Assassin pump that didn't work for very long the owner gave up and went to a AirDog 165 and now fighting the pressure up and down swings of a adjustable regulator of the AD 165.

White smoke is a sign of retarded timing. Should be aa P0216 code or maybe a injector issues like a cracked tip?

With the cold temperature up here I've pink anti-freeze turn solid but didn't damage any plumbing. I entered my RV the first year of owning it that winter at about -10*F and the system was professionally winterized and poked a stick at the p-trap in the tub and the anti-freeze was rock solid. So from this point I've continued to just blow the system out. Both the water system and the p-traps.

Here you go. Main Levels This is how much maximum fuel and timing given. 1 - 40 HP 2 - 60 HP 3 - 80 HP 4 - 100 HP 5 - 120 HP Sublevels This is how fast your going to get the fuel and timing in relationship to boost. 1 - 33% of stock fuel till 20 PSI of boost 2 - 50% of stock fuel till 15 PSI of boost 3 - 67% of stock fuel till 10 PSI of boost 4 - Some extra fuel at 0 PSI of boost 5 - Full fuel at 0 PSI of boost 1-3 are de-fuel setting for controlling smoke. 4-5 are power modes.

Does you gauge rise slowly to position or snap to pressure?

P0215 and P1689 are injection pump problems with the electronics. P0380 and P0382 is a grid heater issues. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes

Here is my collection of Certified Bosch rebuilders... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/25-fuel-system/247-bosch-certified-vp44-injection-pump-rebuilders I've dealt with Vulcan Performance and Diesel Auto Power both and have good pumps. (Industrial Injection).

I tend to agree double check your fuel pressure with a mechanical gauge. Electric gauges are know to die of water hammer pulses beating the sender to death. Most people don't protect their gauges so the elctric gauges will fail without warning to the driver. What's really bad is the gauge typically fails to higher pressure not to ZERO like you figure it would. So most people drive blindly thinking they have fuel pressure but the gauge is wrong.

Hey Yabba... Your RV is almost exactly the same floor plan. Yours is a 5th wheel with very small differences to my own.

Well the error code P1688 isn't good the VP44 is indeed shot. But why would you hassle with unknown shop I know DAP sell lift pump and VP44 combo packages for under $1,000... Even better yet its a FASS lift pump. http://www.dieselautopower.com/product-p/vp44-combo-fass.htm

Thanks to our wonderful economy...

When I last checked mine this winter on about 0*F day. The hose from the head was so darn hot you can't hold the hose for any length of time. But now the return hose the one that goes to the tube under the exhaust that one is so much cooler its a perfect hand warmer temperature. Last time I measure the vents temperature I was blowing about 160*F from the center vents on high fan. So my return hose is much cooler because of the heavy exchange of heat.

I rather have anyone's but my own up there really. Thing is I want to show case other member and not myself. I want to see other ideas on how to install the cubby hole system.

Nice truck. Welcome to the family.

That would be the only factor I would upgrade wheels if I planned on crossing that line. But typically I don't run that much weight.

China bombs... The biggest thing is to check the speed rating of the tire. Like I know both trailers (RV and utility) have the J Speed rating (62 MPH) or K speed rating (68 MPH).Both trailers can't exceed the weight allowance in normal use. I've never had a single issue with China made tires. A matter of fact I ran a set of ST tires on my truck that where Load Range G's (3,750#) and Speed rating of Q (99 MPH) never had a issue with using a ST on my truck either. Just to make you think.

Like I realized in the last few years how much I needed certain things like the air conditioning and microwave. Really funny we don't have air conditioning at home and typically don't use it in the RV because its rather noisy too. Microwave yeah once in a great while we might use even the one at home but still MoparMom and myself are more a outdoor cooker than inside RV. Camping is all about the experience of cooking outdoors. So back to even my mod of doing solar power it more or less to have lighting and a bit of heat. Maybe plug in a laptop or cell phone to charge. I really curious to see AH64ID's final product of inverter system.