Mopar1973Man

Flow paths I could figure out. Supply is on the right banjo fitting and return is on the left banjo fitting. Return comes from the distributor rotor. Looking at the distributor and the ports. Vane Pump to the distributor. From the timing piston to the vane pump? Valve for the timing piston. Check Valve Check Valve to the vane pump. I can tell you the return flow is what is left over after the rotor is done pumping. I can tell you that the cooling of the PSG is done with cold supply fuel from the tank not return fuel. Sorry about screwing up the PSG photo. I got the lid pried off and drop a few chips in the gel figuring it would just blow off with out touching the gel to get them. I found out the gel is like a thick clear grease.

1. Won't do much more than keep the CEL from lighting up. It will not extend your fueling map. So your fuel map will still tapper off at the same point just no error codes. This why I would suggest a good fuel module that taps the wire because now you extending the fuel map for what the module sees and pushing the extended fuel pulse on the wire tap. So when the boost goes past ECM limits the module creates its own map and extends the signal on the wire tap. 2. Suggested to fix it. Remember that turbo is spinning very fast and going extreme in boost pressure will in turn create hot boost (choke point) and possibly over speed the turbo till it blows up. Best to still have a limit to prevent damage. 3. Not really. Just fix this one by freeing the wastegate arm. It's really common to see on city drivers where the turbo rarely spools up good and tight to actually use the wastegate so it rusts shut. I would even go as far as just replacing the turbine housing if you can't free it. No need to get expensive. My little turbo mistake cost over $820 bucks.

Would it be better if I could provide link for Virtual Box and Torrent of Tiny XP?

Still awfully foamy still. I've never seen mine hold foam for very long after. I typically pop the cover with a putty knife. As for checking fluid level I should be able to loosen the plug tip it slightly grab a sample of fluid running out screw it back in and be done. I never have to dip a finder or screwdriver to check levels. How I fill is I fill to it running over then using my thumb as a dam fill just a bit more and through the plug in. Axles, transfer case and transmission.

This is why I suggest the 14-20 PSI fuel pressure to keep the overflow valve open fully and flowing maximum amount of fuel flow for return.

I'll do some route checking for the return fuel. Correction... All parts are lubricated by fuel not oil. This why the <450 HFRR is so critical for the VP44 pump because all the rollers and shoes don't have bearings just harden parts.

Mine no matter what I do when I spin the filter off it drains out of the filter base all down the side of the filter and dripping on the ground. Never drains back.

I'm going to keep this pump semi assembled for show and tell reasons. I'm going to take the time and clean all the parts up and tweak them for easy fitting and then do like ISX did with the P7100 pump and show the functions in video form. But being this pump is a train wreck and needs some serious clean up I'll get on the ball and get that done. I want to make this pump easy to pull apart and show part placement and everything for all future questions about VP44. I think its finally awesome to kill off that old diaphragm myth of tearing and so forth.

You might want to check out this thread... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/index.php?/topic/8021-ive-recieved-the-vp44/

The front seal. That would be the only thing that would still worry me with over pressure. Knock yourself out drop a link anywhere you want...

Another miss... Remember the VP44 is turn the same rate as the Cam 1/2 of Crank RPM's so If your cruising at 2,000 at 68 MPH that VP44 is barely spinning 1,000 RPM's. So even at full redline 3,200 RPM's would be only 1,600 RPM's at the VP44.

Awful burnt looking too being the oil is for sure dark in color. Broke down from heat?

The whole body of the pump is flooded with fuel. The bearing is a bit rough feeling too. The liquid that came out was very pink to red looking. Thank you... I'm still getting pictures and parts line up and functions put together.

Amazingly enough most of the pump is in the distributor head. The 3 sliding pins on the distributor shaft are actually the pump pistons. The distributor head is consider a sealed unit. The cam ring and roller shoes are what pump the pistons inwards. Now we all wondered about how the VP44 could track timing there is a pin on the cam ring that moves the tone wheel sensor as well. Timing piston is controlled by a electronic valve that either adds pressure or releases pressure. There is a very fine screen/filter around the valve. As you seen the timing piston was galled. Yes. There is a vane pump in these pumps. Also took note the owner was running red dye. So more than likely filtration and HFRR was more of issue in this pump.

More...

Done. I managed to tear down the entire pump I can tell you it failed from a P0216 code for sure. The timing cam ring and timing piston where seized up and took a lot to get them out. As for the diaphragm it does NOT exist in a VP44 pump. Just like the exploded view I provided on my article page this pump is a exact copy (except the diagram is 2 piston pump this one 3 piston). So the fuel pressure diaphragm myth is now BUSTED!

Yea... He's right the nose of the body is tore up pretty good and I barely got start tearing it apart. So I've got my camera in the shop and started tearing it apart. It doesn't help when your coming home from a fire fighter class at midnight and checking the web site till almost 1am and then get woke up at 7am with a on rush of phone calls. I'm seriously dragging butt...

We are already discussing with the fire dept about the fire dangers and making plans for getting particular things dealt with being that we figure wildland fires will be the worst thing this year. Unless like Wild & Free said it dumps that wet snow late or it rains through the spring season. Right now I should be whining about the 2-3 foot of snow in my yard.

Your name at the top in the black bar is your User Control Panel.

I found some oil filters just because the name people use them and tend to have drain back problems. Like I've heard a report of AMSOil filters having this issue. The owner was telling me the filter would typically be partial filled at oil change time even after just running the truck. As for Wix, NAPA, and Fleetguard I've not seen that issue. As for subzero operations with petroleum oil (15w-40) and Fleetgaurd filters no issues with delay of oil pressure. Just my

Thank you Diesel4Life... It late tonight being I just got home from my fire meeting as of nearly midnight. I post a bit more in the morning...

Will the member please come forward that sent me the VP44...

Guilty as posted...

I've seen where people get lucky and push the upper pressure well up to 30 and above. Making claims that the VP44 will accept those kind of pressures. Might be true but for how long till something fails? Does anyone have the proper means of diagnosing VP44? Being the factory lift pump came out with 14-15 PSI and adding a mere 5 more to it isn't going to make or break it. But now doubling the pressures you asking for troubles. We already know that stock plumbing and pumps are marginal at best at even keeping 10 PSI and wonder why we have such failures. But rather strange to see industrial ISB engines like for tractors and such rarely have VP44 issues. Makes you think.