Mopar1973Man

I would assume it would be part of the central timer computer like on the 2nd gens (if this still holds true).

The instructor that we had was also a vendor of tools. He had a lifetime warranty on all tools. There was absolutely nothing his tools wouldn't cut. He went as far as cutting the steering wheel off a harden shaft. No damage at all to the tool. Now as for our dept tools I know are much much weaker and would never be able to do that. The biggest thing he cut was a 3/4 axle tube and shaft but I hard to say it the tool lost then. As for the airbag we where taught how to find most of them using a peel and peek method looking for devices. Even shot a few bags off to show strength. We has cut the driver side back so the instructor leaned the seat back against the airbag driver wheel and fired it. The seat back flew a good 20-30 feet up and back. Did the same with the passenger bag and once again eject that seat back like a toy straight up in the air. Our policy is to cut the battery power first thing to minimize the chances of deployment of a airbag during rescue.

Never seen one... Could you post a pic of this...

Remember to check the fuse size for the maximum amp rating that you would be handling like mine is a 15 Amp fuse so you know its going to be less than 15 Amps.

Motor shaft seals are a lube problem I think more than heat. Pump motor should stay cool as long is there is little resistance. AD 100 or AD 150 has a full size return where the Raptor doesn't it just re-circulates internally and tend to cavitate more so because of this design. Since there is no longer no fresh fuel flowing really the pump runs hotter at this point where a full flow AD 100 or AD 150 is returning everything to the tank. Then 1/2" lines are rated for way more flow and way less suction restriction vs. 3/8" line. Don't worry about length just increase the gauge size of the wire. Like my solar panels are about 100 feet from the house only provide a mere 15-20 DC Amps. But to over come the length problem I increase from 14 AWG to 2|0 AWG and now there is ZERO line loss in power. So in the same thing just upgrade from the current AWG size and go up to 14 AWG or even 12 AWG.

Our final car was up-side-down and the top was crush. This was to simulate a roll-over accident like leaving a canyon road and rolling down a embankment. Well our class did excellent and managed to open up the car in a move called a Oyster Cracker. It's where you remove the front fender, cut the front door hinge, rip the nader pin, then cut your rear door hinge and pop the other nader pin. Using struts to stabilize. Now cut the B post lay down on the ground. Put a ram in place and slightly lift. Now cut A post and C post. Now lifting slowly with the ram 2 guys are ratcheting the struts in tighter lifting the car and the ram is holding the roof down it turn Cracking the Oyster open freeing the patients. So this is where the instructor said you want to see a garbage truck? Hua?! We all voted "Yes!" So cut 2 relief cuts near the B post in the floor using 2 come-a-longs we managed to fold the backseat up on top of the car. So the backseat was up right and the cab was up-side-down. My buddy Kelly got the shot of all us around the Garbage truck. Oyster Cracker http://www.fireengineering.com/topics/m/video/31233413/oyster-cracker.htm

MoparMom goofed... I took extrication class but arson was my second choice. So I had 20 hours worth of being certified to cut up vehicles for 3 days. Doesn't matter how you crash there is a way to cut you out of that steel can. You'll have to wait I've got to the pictures from my buddy phone. Like I dummy I left my memory card in the computer for my camera. :banghead:

I've got a old school AirDog 150 before the new owners messed up a good design...

Out of respect and better coverage I moved your post to... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/8429-Lack-of-power

Been using standard yellow or green coolant now for +200k miles and zero damage here. It based on doing the coolant flush and change as recommended by the owners manual at 30k miles. I don't get hung up on the extended life coolant or the 5 year 100k miles stuff either. The fact is most all coolant system damage comes from the fact of people leave the coolant in way too long and the coolant turns corrosive over time. This is where the pH level shifts from 7 either towards 0 (acidic) or toward 14 (basic) either way is corrosive. Regardless of the brand of coolant if you want to do extended change then I highly suggest you get coolant test strips for check pH level. This is what extending coolant changes does... Changing every 30k miles as required by the manual... No problems.

Change you thinking. Don't move and alter ing to over come the AC noise. Why not just kill the AC noise source by fixing the alternator and be done with it. Because 99% of the time if you unhook the alternator and take a test drive the problem is gone so that alternator typically will be the problem.

Well hang around and post lots of questions. There is no such thing as a dumb question here. Just a unanswered one.

Pickled mouse doesn't even sound good.

Don't I wish. I would love to get his type of tire wear but sure not going to happen with the things I have to do with my truck.

I haven't heard anything yet...

Loss of MPG from excessively low cetane.Excessive thick fuel (high cSt score) might not atomize good and put extra stress on the injection pump.

Like I said Tracy...

I think we all are just a wee bit that why when they say "Birds of a feather flock together". Just watch out this is a majority guy site some of them can be at times... But welcome again Tracy.

123. Torx Screw Fillister805. Part Set Control Unit471. Closing Cover109. Cheesehead Screw480. O-ring127. Sealing Ring111. Torx Ovalhead Screw107. Angle Of Rotation Sensor135. Control Valve134. O-ring133. O-ring207. Spring Lock Washer206. Hexagon Nut810. Overflow Valve104. Screw Plug105. Flat Seal Ring398. Screw Plug397. Flat Seal Ring

20. Cam Ring19. Driver Disk21. Roller Shoe22. Roller12. Drive Shaft205. Selection Key17. Selection Friction Washer10. Torx Flathead Screw9. Support Ring7. Supply pump

61. Torx Oval Head Screw62. Spring Lock Washer805. Part Set Control Unit803. Part Set Restriction54. Gasket63. O-ring49. Torx Fillister Screw50. Hydraulic Head51. O-rings25. Deep Groove Ball Bearing23. Friction Washer

38. Screws37. Closing cover30. O-Ring39. O-Ring36. O-ring35. Hydraulic Stop42. Compression Spring801. Part Set of the Timing Piston

Ok... I dug through the part list and never found. Here is a picture of the seal kit used for rebuilding. All violet colored parts are in the seal kit. Mostly o-rings and gaskets. Notes Take notice this is the 4 cylinder version.

#51 are 3 o-ring seals. Give me a bit I'll get digging on this...

More than welcome I'm glad to to be able to help you by have the web site and a weird collection of people.