Mopar1973Man

Yes. There is a adjustment on the drag link for center your steering wheel. Make only 1/2 turn adjustments and check. You'll be surprised at how fast that alter the center placement.

As long as you can reach over 1,000*F for a few miles of heavy towing you'll clean those old ones right up. But you'll enjoy your news ones as well.

Being I've got 2 chainsaws laying in the back of my truck and mixing 2.5 gallons of 2 cycle fuel at a time. I typically always have a few gallons of 2 cycle oil floating around the property. So yes Opti-lube might be cheaper but not as available as 2 cycle oil since I use so many 2 cycle fuel powered engine its foolish to mail-order Opti-lube just for the one purpose.

Yes. Mine is a fly by wire only PCM controlled cruise control. But from what I've learned from everyone here is that all automatic where vacuum servo cruise still controlled by the PCM. So I would attempt to using resistors to fool the APPS sensor to believing its at a idle position of about 0.4 volts, ground the idle leg of the validation switch. Remember this is shooting from the hip. Being that the APPS signal comes from the ECM and then is passed to the PCM. If cruise is set then PCM should take over control feeding signal to the vacuum servo.

4.10 gears?

Walmart SuperTech Outboard 2 Cycle Oil is about $11 a US Gallon.

Actually I would say his starter need to be bench tested.

Here is the inspection process... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/24-air-system/122-turbo-inspection

Personally I don't think it makes a difference at all being that IAT temp are always +40*F on a 2nd Gen regardless if you use the stock air box or the BHAF. Because the discharge of the turbo is going As for boost pressures it doesn't seem to be effected either. Still in all MPG's are higher in 100-110*F weather vs. 40-50*F weather. Since I don't normal race my truck and produce huge amounts of boost constantly then isn't that much heat either. Now the whole CAI and that argument would be plausible if you 100% racing. Daily drive I would say no. Because you can use 100% of the power 100% of the time. The way I see it less pyrometer temps at speed is a sign of efficiency.

Hmmm... Something worth inspecting on my own RV. I tend to load my holding tanks full of water and soak after a trip to clear the tanks of any solid material that might of dirt to the walls or bottom. I need to open the belly pan and do some work for the insulated tank areas. So it would be a good time to check mine out too.

Depending on the boost leak it may or may not show up on the boost gauge. I've had a few small leaks that would not effect the boost numbers but with leak tester you'd hear the air whistling out of the clamp or boot.

Second though too is that there is limp mode error codes present might prevent the cruise from working too. I'm not sure...

I think I have the same blip in mine too. But I rarely look at the TPS signal because 90% of the time I'm using cruise control.

More than likely 6 and 1 need to be hooked up to make the ECM see idle position. This would ground the idle validation switch.

On the data plate it should be clearly stamped either HX35W or HY35W...Holset is really good about stamping the model information the compressor housing data plate.

Not yet. Coming soon though.

I've repaired my ABS sensor by soldering and shrink tubing then a good covering of electrical tape. No issues. Why? Because when it broke I figure I just replace the one sensor and be done. WRONG! If you replace ABS sensors in the front it has to be in pairs both left and right side at the same time. What happen is the new sensor worked but not match to the old sensor so 0-10 MPH no ABS light above 10 MPH the light tripped. So I repaired my old sensors and it works just fine and no light.

Welcome to the family.

As for the OP's transmission cooling question yes the transmission run much cooler if the torque converter is locked up. No. The Automatic 47RE does not have 5 speeds. I suggest some people download the Dodge FSM from the site and do a bit of reading.

Well I'm off and running to another SAR's call again. I was called out at about 2pm for a 25 year old male lost out mushroom picking. So I pack up and head out for the IC location. He's basically wearing tee shirt and jeans carrying two 5 gallon buckets. So we rode from IC camp to last seen and start looking for boot prints in the soft mud of the burn out forest area. What's bad is others have been in the area picking mushrooms and plus its been raining lately. Matter of fact at about 7,000 feet it started snowing on us. But we hiked around the north side of the knob where he was last seen. As I post before I carry my pack on my back its about 30-35 pounds with all the gear plus my 9mm pistol, radio and my multi-tool on my belt. So I'm really close to 40 pounds worth of gear. Needless to say I'm glad I've got every bit of it. Water, food, safety yellow jacket, gloves, etc. where all used. All I can say is hiking on a 45* angle slope and greasy mud is a real PITA. My legs, knees, and hips are sure feeling it. So on my way down I end up with a few minor problems like my rear right tire was running flat, rear rack the bolts where backing out. No biggy. I still made the truck and loaded up. Status of now his still out there the fog was setting in as we left for the night, temp where dipping down into the 30's and getting cold. I truly feel bad for anyone lost in the woods especially without cold weather gear. All I can say gang is say a few prayers for this lost soul that he might make it to safety or be found soon.

Check out this list of bank that where bailed out by the Gov't. http://projects.propublica.org/bailout/list

Test is invalid... The MAP sensor has to remain plugged into the sensor to test the other lines for voltage. Since the +5 volt has to run into the MAP sensor resistor, bias against the ground lead to return out of the sensor with voltage to the ECM. So unplugging the MAP plug and probing the socket is null and void. This why I typically suggest live data tool to see what the ECM sees so you can figure out the problem.

The testing I run by is seeing hotshots like CajFlynn that run ~20K miles on a oil change and clear 1 million miles on nothing more than Chevron Delo 15W-40 and Fleetguard filters. Synthetics? Not required. Bypass filter not required. 7.5K oil changes, just a bit too early. 10K I can handle that. Even the owners manual for my 1996 Dodge 1500 calls for oil changes every 6K miles. Why would a 6 quart engine only be 1.5K less than a 3 gallon engine?

Not really. Even the stock fan clutch if it detects enough engine heat it will partial engage to lock the fan to keep air flow enough during heavy traffic and keep the cab cool. Even on 100-110*F day crawling around on forestry roads at 10-20 MPH I have zero problems keeping the cab cool. Vent temperature is 35-38*F who can ask for more.My question is... Q: Is your compressor cycling in and out? If so then check your freon pressures in those conditions and find out what is going on you might be low on freon. Even Sanden Compressor manual states the compressor should remain lock under normal conditions and only cycle up to 2 times in 1 minute tops.

I tend to agree. What's funny is for the extra 150 HP plus the stock 235 HP turns out 385 HP roughly. Which makes use still just a bit stronger than a 03-07 CR Engine. BHAF is so large of a filter I really can't see any issues being with the filter unless your really up high in HP maybe like 750+ HP numbers then I can see it might be restrictive. For a stock or mildly modified truck I would have to say the claim of 25 HP lost is invalid till we see restriction data in inches water column.