Mopar1973Man

That's correct. This has always been debate for the longest time but after seeing that video and a discussion here about discharge temps of the turbo then it was very clear that what you feed the turbo temp wise wasn't going to change the IAT temp very much because the intercooler was the biggest factor in manifold temp (IAT Temps) not cold air intakes. Turbo temp calculator http://www.stealth316.com/2-turbotemp.htm

Deborarh has gotten back to me I'm hoping to get a answer for all you about products very soon.

I've added more to my day pack. * Cigarette Lighter* Pack of Kitchen Matches* Magnesium Block and Flint* Water filter and pump.I got to admit I've been out in the wood several time and gotten turned around. I always find my way back as long as you keep your cool. Like Dennhop points out your screwed after that. So once you start to feel the panic come on your best to sit down and thing it out. Wondering around aimlessly will get you in more trouble. Out here in the mountain of Idaho It's always suggested to go down hill you'll always cross a road or water way sooner or later. Since water is a key to survival at least you'll have that. As for travel if you continue to hike in any direction you eventually find a road. It might be a few miles but you'll find one. If I could lay the Nezperce Forest Map out and and scan it you'd be surprised how many trails, forestry roads, and such are in the area. Then how many water ways.

Well some how you got to meet Bosch standards to prevent damage...Remember US #2 Diesel fuel is ~520 HFRR and EU #2 Diesel fuel is 450-460 HFRR big difference...

Time for a rebuild if the compressor wheel is moving on the shaft. Here is the method of inspect your turbo. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/24-air-system/122-turbo-inspection Not good. You do know there is no such thing as a CAI (Cold Air Intake)? (Left gauge is after intercooler right gauge is before the intercooler from the turbo). https-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=nf7ladNL7V8 So that means the biggest thing you got to worry about is filtration. Being that all washable filters tend to break down each time you wash them means that in a short period of time you'll be pushing dirt through.

Won't work you can sell the ScanGauge II now... Since you now have the P7100 there is going to be no feedback of fuel data. Not to mention the rash of all the error code from the ECM still hunting for all the missing devices. The only device that will report correct error codes will be the PCM. You'll have to go back to old tyme method of fill the tank math method.

Smoke switch installed? If so remove it. Is the MAP sensor hooked up to the Edge? If not hook it up. Yes. Please do unplug the entire unit it could be a bad boost fooler in the Edge Comp causing this issue.

Except the HFRR still has to be met.

Simple. Insert the neck of the of the BHAF into the intake tube and tighten clamp just snug. Don't crank it super tight it will deform the plastic and keep popping off. If you want to beef up the neck just insert a piece of 4" exhaust pipe inside the BHAF neck and tighten the same way.

First thing don't mix any additive together. 2 Cycle oil is typically the reverse of most additive so it negates the benefits of the other product. Always pick one product and use just that product don't mix them. As for HFRR score you want that as low as possible. This will keep your fuel system lubed up. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/36-fuel-system/68-hfrr-testing-of-common-diesel-fuel-additives As for fuel mileage you want your cetane as low as possible. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/36-fuel-system/67-diesel-fuel-cetane-rating-and-the-effects More BTU's in low cetane fuel than high cetane fuels.

At nearly 1/2 oz to gallon or 200:1 ratio your injectors will love you for it. There is typically little to no change for 3rd Gen people because the pre-injection event mask the change. No 2 cycle oil will not harm a 3rd Gen but it might add miles to you weak injectors that cost a pretty penny to replace. Even Bosch states that US fuel doesn't meet the requirements for Bosch fuel systems. Remember today fuel at the pump is ~520 HFRR. As for the convertor. I would also consider just changing out the muffler or change out the entire exhaust system as a full kill and put your stock system aways if the need be. Let's just say my stock 3" pipe without a muffler supports just about 400 HP without any EGT's issues or flow issues and still keeping 20-22 MPG. So your 4" with a CAT I doubt there is much restriction.

Now I'm curious of you MPG's compared to the VP44... Up or down? I know I got to wait till you run a tank of fuel being P7100 pump cannot be used on the ScanGauge II.

Time to pull the injectors and have them pop tested. Pop pressure is most likely getting to low in a injector at idle causing a pissy injector that doesn't seal. As for VP44, ECM or APPS there is nothing pointing towards those yet. If there is no error codes.

As for speaking from a 2nd Gen point of view. Actually you want to cruise at the lowest possible RPM without struggling the engine. Like myself I can cruise at 1,500 to 1,600 and get upwards of 20 MPG without thinking. If I was to drive close to my torque curve which is 2,100 RPM's I would be doing close to 75 MPH which the last time I traveled the interstate I was getting about 14 MPG (ScanGauge II). So the torque curve thing is more so if your hauling heavy. Like now if I'm towing my RV I aim for the 2K on the tach and still pull 14 MPG at 55 MPH in 4th Gear. I'm running 3.54:1 Gear ratio and 235/85 R16 tires (weighing 62 pounds per tire). But since I've never seen a 6.7L Cummins yet I couldn't even tell you. Everything in my neighborhood is 1st gens to 2nd Gens... Very rare to see 3rd gens...

For longevity of the truck Yes I would use a BHAF. As for washable media filter I highly suggest against them. More people do damage to there trucks from dirt and dust being inhaled by the engine from a damage filter. This is bad news and very common with washable media filter... BHAF... No dirt will enter the turbo or engine which is a good thing... Better for longevity....

Just remember for every 4 pounds of tire rubber you put on the rim will cost you 1 extra HP to keep the truck moving. So smaller and lighter tires will do more good for MPG's that big over-sized aggressive tires.

As long as there no vacuum sensed inside the filter then you good to go. My first BHAF lasted 7 years and 135K miles before I gave up. The filter minder never moved. Yes I've tested it several times and it always worked. But what got me to change the filter is when the media inside the filter starts to darken in color it was a shade of off-white. Why risk it when the filter served its life well and very long!

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Notes To all readers do remember this is all said in fun. I can say you can dog on all makes and models of vehicles and find fault with every one of them the only reason most here feel really good about there Dodge's is because of the fact we have figure out how to over come the problems. The same can said about Chevy and Ford owners too so if you find a talented group for them you might hear the same thing...Personally I would say I don't like Fords much at all. But the Chevy's well there nice but since my Dad worked for GM (Van Nuys, CA division) I know all the problem with them too. So really I've been a Dodge owner since day one. Back to have fun...

Heck even between run you can have a variance of 5-10 HP without changes. If your using a filter minder and there is no vacuum (inches of water column) then there should be no losses. But if the filter is dirty and partially plugged up yes there could be some changes. So now my question is to the dyno runner....Q: How much vacuum was on the filter measured in water column?

Ahhh... I thought the steering/brake problem was during the engine running (or because you stalled it)... My Bad. :duh:As for the transmission getting hot they still do even manuals. I typically check my fluid once a month and check the color if the color is darking I typically change it out regardless of the miles. But as for getting hot manuals still can with weight and towing. Like even myself when I'm hauling heavy I never drive faster than 55-60 MPH. Faster you drive the hotter the driveline will get all the way to the axles. More torque means more friction on gears.

Well with the engine off you should be able to place the gear. But if there is still trouble then something is broke in the trans.

Radiator life typically is dictated by the cooling changes and flushing. The only way to get holes in the aluminum is to have the metal rot out from corrosive coolant. As for replacements I think most all radiators will work just fine and have to meet the requirements of pressure and cooling capacity. So beyond that it how well you take care of it. :wink:Dripley your rare case of blowing the tank head completely off.

If the input shaft bearing is truly the problem then it wouldn't matter what gear your in you'll clutch would never disengage. Because the pilot bearing would keep the input shaft twisting regardless of the clutch in or out. Since you got a foul odor from the transmission I would say your most likely running too heavy and too fast got the trans overheated. Something internal most likely failed. (Bearing, etc) Because if the engine dies out after you engage the clutch that means its damaged after the clutch. So you throw out and pilot bearings are good.As for the power steering/Power brakes that is the power steering pump issue. Something failed with one of the pump being either the vacuum pump ahead of it or the P/S pump behind it.

80% of Fords are still on the road but...20% of Fords actually make it home...