Mopar1973Man

Water hammer is a big issue for either mechanical or electric fuel pressure gauges. As long as the gauge or sender is hooked up after the last filter and back away from the VP44 it should last a long time. Big the Bosch VP44 injection pump is the source of the water hammer pulses.

Here is the 4 things that can kill a VP44... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/25-fuel-system/415-bosch-vp44-injection-pump-requirements If you deal with these 4 things you'll get plenty of life from your VP44. I'm heading for 200K miles and plan on many more miles...

I'm going to gamble a guess that there is a a bad ground wire for that circuit somewhere under the dash. As other circuits are used typically weird things like this occur where circuits either come to life or die from bad grounds.

Something is shorted out for sure. The bad part is that all the bulbs are a dead short to a ohm meter so ohm testing is out unless you can unplug all bulbs which I think would be a PITA to do. I would assume starting with a visual inspection of all wiring and see if anything is rubbed through or damaged. Maybe a connector melted a bit?

Fuse, Relay, clockspring, etc... Might even check and see if the horn actually functions hooked directly to the battery. I've seen horns fail this way too.

Sorry for the lag in response. Sneezes about 120 PSI. Just a quick sneeze and about 40-60 seconds later its sneezing again. Pressure stays up the whole time. Any time the engine is running its constantly sneezing.

All too funny...

Then if its still cutting out then I would highly consider changing the low pressure switch. It can be done without losing any freon being its screws on a schrader valve on the accumulator can.

Yes it will constantly keep breaking the circuit. Any pressure below about 30 PSI will cause the system to freeze up hence why the pressure tables for the A/C system. Also I typically charge to a solid 40 PSI on most vehicles.

Yeah I know but his case is rather weird. I've driven the truck in snow and its very very spooky to drive. The only way to gain control is change fuel pins. Fuel comes on way to quick also he's extremely light for a 1st gen at about 6,200# empty weight.

Correction.

I'm going to see if I can find a sign a friend showed me on Facebook. It was a standard 65 MPH speed limit sign but then below it said... "Ford's just do the best you can to keep up." :lmao2:But I can't find it now...

I got a buddy with a 1st gen that wishes he could upgrade to a VP44 truck for that exact reason because he's tired of constantly fighting to control the fueling power between summer time when he wants more and in the winter time when he wants less power. He's gone as far as milling different filling pins for summer and winter usage but still you have to pull over, get the toolbox out, and change pins. Mechancial pump are nice because they last forever but not controllable unless you breakout a toolbox.

I'm using a Edge Products boost elbow and can bury the boost gauge at the 35 PSI pin in just about any gear. So for the OP problem he need a boost elbow. I personally like the Edge Products elbow because there is no need for adjustment because it stop typically at 32-35 PSI.

Well I'll have to admit the +50HP injectors pull strong hauling the RV around and the EGT's are much cooler than the RV275's. I was capable of taking on most of Midvale, ID grade in 5th gear hauling along at 55-60 MPH just toward the last little bit of the summit I had to back down to 4th gear but very controllable for EGT's. I had more issues with the blowing winds and the trailer than with truck.

There is a few household reodeling jobs I hate... Either drywalling or house painting (interior / exterior). I simply suck at doing either one. But most other jobs around the house I enjoy doing. Mowing the grass, weed wacking, bushing out the hill side, wood hauling, splitting firewood, working on the trucks, irrigation work, fencing, etc.

I use to run stem extenders on the 1976 Dodge motorhome I use to own. I actually drilled a hole and and mounted the stem extenders to the rim instead of the clamp system it came with I found the stem spun off and caught between the tires a few times. Then at the very end before I gave up on the old beast the stem extenders were not holding air any longer and leaking. So if you use these be sure to keep an eye on the inner duals because its possible to not notice the inner dual has gone flat.

Left and right turn signals tap the harness at the left frame rail near the rear end. The parking lamp comes from a splice near the front left fender then to the trailer relay to power all the parking lamps from the same power that constant hot is from. (40A fuse in PDC)

Let's say the ECM is reporting 15.5% off from actual GPH flows (With the RV275's and Edge Comp 5x3). Then ABS computer is off by 1% on MPH.

What's the low side pressure and what the high side pressure? Possible you have a bad low pressure switch that not tripping out proper pressure. Like if you look at the low pressure gauge rthe R134a ring will tell you the output temp of the system.

Not cheating if the gallons consumed and the gallons displayed match...

HY35W is 9cm2 HX35W is 12cm2

Nice flat bed. Now we need to see you hauling one ton hay bails on the bed of the truck.

Guys have a point it would be a good idea to drop a set of manifold gauges on and check the pressures of the system and see what happening it might be at 40-50 PSI when you start. Then as the compressor runs a second or 2 then drops below 25 PSI and shuts down.

Because what you ask for with Jason does lots of things all the way up to the grave...