Mopar1973Man

It's based on your turbo.Automatics are typically HY35W turbo which has a limit of 30 PSI. Manuals are typically HX35W turbo which has a limit of 35 PSIAs for the engine itself it can handle stock form up to 45 PSI safely without any modification other than larger turbo. Beyond this I would suggest head studs, fire ring or O-rings the head.

Brings back memories of being back in California and hanging mirrors. I was different kind of glazer I dealt with mostly bathroom mirrors and such. Man I miss those days.

Dealership only item and here is the information on it. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/25-fuel-system/236-fuel-gauge-replacement-sender

Usually the P0230 code is cause from a current / load change on the factory lift pump lead.

Welcome to the family...

fairly typical to see oil down around the head bolts on most vehicles.

Not many gasket on these trucks. ISX is right most of the oil leaks are from the front cover or the tappet cover. Might just check out the vacuum pump seals too.

Thank you guys for bringing the truth to light...

Possible sucking a a bubble through (lower fuel than expected - bad gauge sender in the tank?)

I bet money the floor board carpet is damp too. So you'll end up with moisture on the windows. I've seen it a few times here under right conditions it will do it. Like this morning its only +17*F (94% RH).

If I'm not mistaken it start with the driver controls then passed to the passenger controls and then to the window motor. So time to break out with your test light and start probing wires.

Like myself when I drive <1 mile to the fire station to head out for fire calls. But when I return home I drive a extra 2-3 miles away to turn around and come home with a fully warmed up truck also give the alternator a chance to charge the batteries after grid heaters have hit. I always try to make it a point to have at least 1 cycle that makes full engine temperature in either truck (gas or diesel).

MoparMom and I will offer ours as well.

Check this out. http://www.snotr.com/video/9682

I would give a local accountant a call and ask them. Because of all the different tax laws and such I would rather check and be sure than have IRS knocking on your door.

Sounds like a CCD Network issues why you can pull codes. As for the charging problem I would pull the alternator and have it bench test and check both the brushes and diode performance.

Simple solution is give Edge products a call and get one... http://www.edgeproducts.com/contact.php

Works like a charm too. As for the headlight lens I think it more of UV thing than anything else.

Sorry I don't know. Seriously that what kills the Raptor series pumps more times out of ten is something suck into the pump wedge the rotor and burn the motor up with the fuse blowing out. Then some add bigger fuses to help it burn out better. I would suggest just getting a remote filter mount and getting a nice spin on pre-filter and then protect the pump from damage too.

Ummm... Wouldn't it be easy just to buy the appliance? At least this is what we got. http://www.nesco.com/products/Dehydrators/ Look around there is 120V muffin fan out too. I'm sure some where like Grainer or something would have a fan that is 120V and allow you to keep it simple.

Too cold you need to get you coolant temp up more. But the pyro and boost would look good for 55 MPH but alias you only rolling 40 MPH.

With a bit of testing with a DVM on Ohm setting you should be able to see if the field brushes are good or something else happened. As for battery drain basically got all the computers on the CCD network (ECM, PCM, ABS, AirBags, Central Timer, etc) Then you got the VP44 power the PSG on top.So if you figure you got about 200 amp hours of batteries (roughly guessin') with a 20 amp load (roughly guessing again) you could drive for ant least 10 hours before consider battery dead at 10.5 Volts but the electronics on a Cummins will continue to run all the way to 8 Volts which will most likely do damage to the batteries for sure.

The other factors like winter fuels and weather will make a impact. TIRES (235's vs. 265's) Like with my setup I've got a set of 265/75 R16 on steel rims which weight roughly 85 pounds per tire. Then my summer tires at 235/85 R16 on aluminium rims which weight a mere 62 pounds per tire. This has a net gain of 2-3 MPG easy by shaving off 23 pounds per tire. These 265's are on there last legs and will not be used again and will be replacing with a set of 235's A/T tires for next winter. Too much loss in going big and out here the wider tires do poorly in the snow. WINTER FUELS (Higher Cetane) At least in the frozen north I know all fuel is a mixture of #1 and #2 to bring down the pour temp to close -20*F roughly. Then some people have this fear that their fuel will gel up so they add more fuel conditioner of some sort and most don't even measure the proper amount. Like for Power Service its 400:1 ratio so if the 35 gallons of fuel (4,480 ounces) you would add 11.2 ounce total. But still in all your raising the cetane the higher the cetane the lower the BTU's. WEATHER (Wind, road conditions, etc.) Like yesterday I left the house and headed for McCall, ID to pick up a few things. Since I'm climbing up hill the truck tends to warm up fairly rapidly. But with the colder weather and the winterized fuels there is less power per cycle so you need more fuel to over come the loss of the BTU's so I've been typically 13 MPG getting to New Meadows, ID where in the summer it more like 16 MPG. But my return trip is mostly down hill so I should gain a bunch back. But I don't I've been averaging about 19-20 MPG at best in the winter and then like last night SAR's meeting with the heavy winds pulled my average from the morning of 19.5 down to a dismal 15 MPG bucking winds all the way back up hill to home. I could of gained back some of this by getting off the highway and slowing down and reducing the amount of wind drag on the truck. But I wanted to get home. So the quick route cost me dearly. And this what all the wind brought...

Depending on the series of DDRP pump it could be a older 45 GPH or the newer 85 GPH pump.

I think ISX has it correct its going to be fuel pressure related most likely. Since everyone with a P7100 pump knows that fuel pressure isn't a issue (or is it?!). So I would follow ISX idea of checking the fuel pressure and the over flow valve to verify if there any fuel system issues. I gotta admit with ISX everything has to be measured one way or another (no guessin'). Here is a killer tidbit... http://www.torkteknology.com/products/TORK-TEK-CUMMINS-ADJUSTABLE-OVERFLOW-VALVE-OFV020.html