Mopar1973Man

Mine never failed yet 208K miles...

Most electric gauges tend to fail at the senders. So about every 2 or so year you replacing senders on electric gauges. As for mechanical they are very safe and typically very accurate. So if it was dropping to zero you truly had a lift pump issues or air issue. As for my DiPricol gauge its over 7 years old and still going strong. No leaks either.

As far as KDP history I know of its rare to see the KDP in the 2001 and I've only seen one confirmed report of a 2002 with KDP. Owner posted pictures over at CF.com.

Geez get around to helping people and dang they are smart enough to fix it themselves... Most of taught you a few tricks...

I'm looking for a VP44 for exactly that reason I want a huge photo opt of the VP44 guts.

:whistle:There only a handful of places that have the 815 test bench. Why the price is so high on the VP44...

Quick question do they actually have the Bosch 815 test bench on site?

Human's get breakfast at about 9-10 MST and the animals typically get breakfast at sunrise.

That's a moment with the washer.

The weird things the midwest Rednecks do.

I wouldn't go that far... But I will admit that washing them are a pain in the butt and then trying to protect them from rubbing holes in them another pain in the butt.

...and Google Maps reports... http://goo.gl/maps/XNRhn

No they appear dim because the draw power from other sources and tend to illuminate both elements of the bulb giving a dim appearance. Headlight on our trucks are backwards to what you think. Battery (+) -> Fuse (L & R) -> Headlight -> Multifunction Switch -> Headlight Switch -> Ground (-) So the headlight typically have 12 volt power all the time its just the ground is turned off and on.

Ummm... that look like ummm... Something exploded?

MoparMom says, "No hunting from the deck!"

Welcome to come up...

Headlight ground is inside the cab under the the driver side kick panel. But I've got a feeling you blew the head light fuses. Main battery cables are off of both batteries to the engine driver and passenger sides.

Several other factor your fighting too. -snip The overly large injectors are tough to gain MPG's with. Then the 4.10 gear with 315's tires. Lots of leverage load on the axles and requiring a lot of TQ to twist the axle from stop to full roll. For every 4 pounds of rotation mass you shave off you'll require 1 less HP to keep it rolling. Then when you doing your MPG calcs are you using a GPS or the odometer with a percent offset? I found out the reason why the percent offset doesn't work. It because of the tire vs. wheels. Some people put wide wheels on and stretch the tire slightly bead to bead so now the profile is shorter giving you different profile then again you could be on a narrower rim and change it again there is a +/- about 1-2% offset to your offset calculate depending on the wheel size. So the only way to get correct odometer you need a GPS...

Error codes?Possible injector problems?

Here you go time lapse video (1 frame per 1 second) of the same mountain... Morning low here was 30*F and day high was 32*F. Humidity is 94-96% today.

http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/231-p1693-dtc-detected-in-companion-module http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/151-p0122-apps-sensor-signal-voltage-too-low Nothing to point to the VP44 quite yet... Good fuel pressure. This is all there is...

Here is a run away Cummins... My thoughts are excessive fuel that is unburnt in the exhaust stream that is being ignited by another exhaust port creating the pop. Other than that the exhaust stream should be technically exhaust gases (spent fuel) so if there popping in the exhaust stream then I would say excessive fuel or incomplete burning of fuel.

Here is what breakfast time is like around here...

Sorry I didn't post the link... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/34-engine-system/144-compression-testing