Mopar1973Man

Started drifting cold and colder. Started out good and then continued to have a lower high temperature. So under max load I was 183-185*F and then no load running 175*F or so.

What furnace??? I don't have one... Been burning firewood since Oct 1...

Been tried years ago... Remember AMC (American Motor Corp.)?

I'm not going to step on the Ford bashing either but I still say stay to the older stuff that is known and fixes on corrections can be made. Like on our Dodge's (24V) we know what the weakness are and deal with them accordingly. Just do the same with a older Ford or Chevy product research the weakness and deal with it!

I would also suggest the diesel line too but I tend to suggest the older series of diesel that are known.

Depends on the turbo... Like the 1st gen with a HX35W turbo will boost 30-35 PSI without thinking. But stock it barely makes 15 PSI H1C Turbo.

Check for error codes. (P0380 or P0382)Check the grid heater fusible links.Check the IAT sensor with a live data tool for accurate temp readings.As for starting these truck don't need grid heater till your under 32*F. So that being said I would be looking at possible air leaks in the fuel system.

Put on my winter fronts drove to Ontario, OR and it was 75*F out. I though for sure there would be a issue with EGT's or engine temp. Nope coolant hover at 190-195*F with Dripley's thermostat and EGT's where no different that typical. But I could hear the fan lock/unlock now and then.What was weird started out here at 38-40*F... :banghead:

GPS is fairly accurate for measuring distance. Like even my old Garmin GPS V has Topo maps and can profile a mountain road for you showing the rise and fall and the measurements for vertical feet per second. At least my old Garmin figures in 3 dimensions.

For any of you that have vehicles in the storm area and might of had water in them. The way to check is if the seat is wet don't even start the vehicle. You might want to disconnect the battery(ies) and deal with the vehicle properly. If in doubt don't start and disable the vehicle.

Normal... Mine got another chunk of my wallet...

The most I can give is running out to a tire calculator and getting the figures... http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html But the problem is not all tires are the same. These calculations are rough estimates. Like my 265/75 R16's are suppose to 31.6 Inches but there not there closer to 32" inches when new. So even looking at the 235/85 R16's it suppose to 31.7 inches. Just the 0.1 of inch is equal to 1 rev per mile difference or 0.2% percent offset. But my truck already has a 0.5 MPH offset with the stock size and the ScanGauge II requires 1% offset to be even close to the GPS. So this shows even I'm not excluded from the offset problems. Even though mine or very very minor it does impact the hand math up to +/- 0.5 MPG offset. Here is a older video I did showing some offset. http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=pq0XG5qRLsM

My outside probe is all the way forward at the front bumper very driver side tip hidden behind a support brace. Very... Very close to correct as I drive through towns the temps on there board are like +/- 2 degrees. I was going to mount in the factory location but knew radiator heat would skew it.

Sender is most likely bad you might stop by a Cummins dealer and replace it.As for the excessive blow by you might check vacuum hoses for a leak. Leaking vacuum hose will make the vacuum pump into a air compressor for the engine hence blow by issues.

Check error codes it might give a clue to what's wrong. A lot of different wires will cause error codes if there are still unplugged.

1. Pick one station and one pump. Make sure you use the same station, pump and parked the same direction. 2. Fill up till the handle cancels on its own. Use the slowest notch for best accuracy. Do NOT top off! 3. 1st fill up don't change the display just go through the process but remember no adjustments! 4. Return back to the station after a 1/2 to 3/4 tank is burned. Same station, same pump, Same direction! 5. Fill the tank again same way. Slowest notch and let it cancel. Do NOT top off! 6. Now adjust for offset. 7. Your done. Like me when I do calibrations to my ScanGauge II I use Payette, ID Maverik station and pump #1. I pull it the same way each time and it I can hit the number dead on the nail each time. As soon as the handle cancels it right there. At the worse I've seen +/- 0.1 or 0.2... If still that close I leave it alone. Density change of fuel and temperature.

It the blind beauty of the VP44 pumps. So little information about then and more of a science experiment trying to gain as much MPG's as possible.

I just got back from Ontario, OR and Nampa, ID for a 240 mile round trip and still got 19.8 MPG using my heavy winter 265/75 R16's... But I'm so spoiled to having much high numbers.

Right from Quadzilla's lab techs...

Well if it was me in the quest of MPG's... [*]Ditch the 4.10 gear and swap for 3.55 gears. [*]Ditch the 35" tires and get back down to 235's [*]Ditch the 3' body lift and cut your wind drag down. [*]Ditch the 150HP sticks and drop down to +40 (RV275) to no more than +75HP You got way to much going against you to gain any kind of MPG's. Like for example for every 4 pounds of rotational mass you remove your required 1 less HP to keep rolling. So I can bet you got something like 120 pounds of weight in one tire/rim assembly. (attach pic) What you gain from the size for ratio you lost in weight of the tire. The more aggressive the tread pattern the more rolling resistance you have. Give you an idea the optimal tire for rolling resistance is a racing slick. Since its smooth face it has none. Then frontal area. that 3" body lift just place your truck even higher into the wind creating more drag. Oh rule of thumb if you want 20+ MPG you Pyrometer need to be below 600*F and the boost below 5 PSI. In the video below my boost is 1.5 to 3 PSI and pyrometer wondering between 450-600*F. Now that efficient. Here is a sample. http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=SRQdoPs_tLo

Ekkk... Low pressure. Your lowest pressure you want is 14 PSI. But 10 PSI is the service limit. But remember as the pressure fall below 14 the overflow valve starts closing and is completely closed by 10 PSI so cooling and lubing got limited. We'll see if the previous low pressure has any tell tales with error codes.

Error codes? When you say auto-accelerates do you mean all the way to red-line like someone mashed the throttle to the floor or is a jerky kind of up and down revving? I've got a hunch it might be a ECM problem but need more info. on it...

Well Lets say you need a goal to hit. I've been very capable of hold 21-22 MPG for the most part so for you that would be 1,100 Km to 1,200 km roughly speaking.So your getting a new fuel system that a good start. But I rather concerned with the condition of the VP44. I think you might be fighting a losing battle against a pup that might be totally wore out. This why I'm asking about the fuel pressure and the error codes because it might give a clue to what is wrong. Do you see any white smoke at start up? (digging for more info)

Lazy day...:whistle:But here I am back at the helm steering this site down the information super-highway...