Mopar1973Man

Put the truck on the scales and find out.

Piece of rubber radiator hose and a hose clamp? (Redneck solution)

Time to check error codes and fuel pressure...

That's weird... Even hitching up my trailer the overload springs come close but don't touch.

Check out a 2002 Dodge Ram and you find that the stops are rubber coated. Strange though my truck NEVER hits the stops unless it loaded plum full of firewood then you might hear the helpers bang on the stops now and then. I'm just a little 2500...

That why I don't go for exact weight I go for pressure at running RPM's. (1,200-1,500 RPM) Because I don't jump in the truck and idle around... I drive the truck. So I charge the system to give me opimial pressures at driving conditions typically just a few extra ounces needed to get that effect.Another tidbit of study work. When we typically charge the system you have the controls set for MAX A/C and fan to high. Well guess what?! When you turn the fan to low the pressures fall. So once again double check you pressures for your working conditions. Because every time you compressor cycles out the efficency is lost. Since the compressor stops the lo side rises (warms) and the hi side falls (cools) so now when the compressor kick back in it needs to recover and then most likely cycles out again. This why I typically charge a bit more and bit higher in pressures.

Video and cameras are also very handy tools too. If you get lucky and get a photo or video of the vehicles or people it can be used to track them down. As for me I'm starting Open Carry more often. As for weapons I typically have a pistol or a rifle close by at all times. I've even joined a forum of Idaho Carry (Open or Concealed) As for the Idaho neighborhood its OK for the time but there is a few bad seed around here and I see the hand writing on the wall and know that when they get desperate they will steal just about anything from firewood, equipment, trailers, vehicles, you name it. So typically I keep everything locked up around here every night. Another neat thing here! I've installed doubled key sided deadbolts in both buildings. So if you think you going to break in and come out the front door think again. Unless you have the key the door is not going to open for you. Yes I might sound paranoid but after living in Los Angeles, California for 20 years and being broke into, car vandalized, personal property stolen you tend to never change or trust anyone. Like I'm already planning on fencing off the property, adding a gate that will be locked. I realize it not much but it will keep the honest people honest and give Diesel "The Dog" a chance at getting to the fence before the intruder.

Need to check both error codes and fuel pressure. Very few codes actually trip the light...

My little Star 9mm... Mostly used for the 4 leggers around here but always kept near me for the 2 leggers when I make it to the Big city. Yes I open carry and conceal carry as well. No. This is not the only firearm I've got but this is my favorite.

Here is something from another forum at... http://www.idahoturbodiesels.com/vb/showthread.php?t=10173 It about the 13 rules of gunfighting everyone should know.

System is low on freon what it sounds like. Sandsen Compressors in their service manual that a compressor should not cycle more than 3-4 times a minute more than this and clutch damage can occur. So I would highly suggest you get gauges on there and check it out. When I typically recharge a A/C unit I don't worry about weight as much as I worry about pressure on both hi and lo side. The lo side I typically look for 35-40 PSI and hi side I look for 250-275 PSI. Then once everything is stable I kick the throttle up to 1,200 - 1,500 RPM's to check the pressures again. If the pressure drop below 30 PSI on the low side I add more freon to get the compressor stay going at 35 PSI at road RPM's. What good is it to have the compressor pull the pressure down and have the compressor cycling while your driving but holding solid when your at a stop? Remember the lower the lo side pressure the colder the output from the dash. The low pressure switch is installed in the system to prevent the evaporator from getting down to freezing point so the low pressure switch will drop the compressor to allow the temperature to rise then lock again. (Typo the marks are suppose to be 35*F and 40*F)

My buddy down the road has a car trailer that got 2 batteries in a steel box lined with rubber. The batteries are use for the 8K pound winch, lighting, and trailer brakes (break away).

Oh thank, you thank you, thank you!!! More SAE documentation of diesel engines... You good to go with SAE docs! I'll get this moved to the library very very soon!

Wastegate arm only moves a small amount...

It fine... My 1996 Dodge Ram is 233% offset... That's the beauty of the ScanGauge it will calibrate to any vehicle! My 2002 Dodge is 22.5%...

It this point I would do a compression test and see where you sit. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/34-engine-system/144-compression-testing

I wish... But something I sumbled on and figure I would share... Nothing more...

I'm not sure... :think:At any rate I wouldn't use it. I would still drill and tap the manifold for a more accurate temperature reading of the exhaust gas temperatures.

:lol:That kind of funny... Your in the same boat as I am. MoparMom is tone deaf she can hear deep bass but high pitch whines not at all. But I've got ears that pick up the slightest change in injector rattle and drive me crazy. :ahhh:As for your turbo cleaning take your time and do it right.

Might double check your fuel pressure and error codes and see whats happening...

Absolutely normal.Blow by when its pushing oil out of the tube and dip stick now you got problems. Kind of like the Chevy 3500 fire truck down at the fire station some ran it low on oil and now it pushing oil out the dip stick and the breather tube. So as long as ther is no oil loss then your fine...

Correct. But here is the problem you need to insure the torque converter stays locked up to get the use of the exhaust brake but the transmission will not shift down if the torque converter is locked up forcably. When you manually lock the torque convertor the transmission will shift up normally but never will down shift till you unlock the torque converter.Ask CajFlynn about his lockup controller.

State of charge is checking the battery voltage after appriximately 3 hours. Typically disconnected. When I showed up the owner's house I brought my DVM (Digital Volt Meter) check the standing at rest battery voltage 12.4 Volts been sitting for better than 24 hours but hooked up to the truck. So now started the truck and saw the alternator take a bit of time to push up to 14.1 Volts which is good. But after shutting down it took less than a few minutes for the batteries to fall back 12.4 volts again. So knowing the batteries are 10 years old and the owner only drives the truck maybe 6K-8K a year. So I know the batteries are pretty well done in age. But when I replaced the batteries and left the old ones sit on the ground for over 2 hours the voltage was 12.8 when I checked them. So I'm going to have to say the batteries are charging but the cold cranking capacity is been greatly reduced for such small draw to pull it down 12.4 volts.

No arguing... Actually in total agreeance!

Check this out gang... http://lubricheck.com/ From the manufacture site...