Mopar1973Man

I've got the standard ScanGauge II... So far it worked awesome on both trucks (1996 and 2002). Like today I manage to make a loop down to Ontario, OR over to Nampa, ID and then back to New Meadows, ID at 16.7 MPG on the 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 5.9L V8 Gasser...

THRacing is right you got to be careful of the truck of truck your running against. There is roughly 47 different ECM's out there so some may work good for testing and others might not work good at all...HO (6 speed)SO (5 Speed)SO (Automatic Trans)FederalCaliforniaCanadianList goes on...

Russ remember this is the 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 (Gasser) there is lot more room behind that grill compared to the Cummins which has ZERO room...

That truely is awesome work... Wow! You are a handy man for RV projects. :wow:I'm sure that's going to be much nicer RV now because its built your way!

Holy Cow Russ...I love the cabinet owrk that's awesome. Even better yet the fact of where you stuffed the TP roll that is awesome. Heck sitting on my can I have a tough time with where the TP roll where its hanging now... :rolleyes:Then if you get any of those mega rolls you got to remove the roll to lift the lid...

As for the quick connects there has been issues with them leaking air in the past. So yes most people just cut the hose and hose clamp into place on the stock sender. But you'll be looking towards a drawstraw anyways.As for the extra plug...That's for the optional low pressure light that nobody wants to buy...

Nothing really... Drip on the floor now and then...

I know you all know I've got four 100w bulbs on the bottom of both Dodge Ram trucks I have. Well over at RamForum I've seen a few Trucks with hidden fog/driving lights behind the grill. So I went to building the poor mans version from a piece of re-bar and flat stock. So now here is the stealth lights...

Ok flatlander...

Yes... Bring it on...

I'd love to see pics of this... It gives me ideas too...

No... 1/4" ID (6 mm) pipe will only flow roughly 75 GPH and the fitting on the sender is small and restrictive. When I got my AD150 I cheated because I had to travel ASAP and did have the time to install the draw straw. I was having serious issues with fuel pressure and just keeping the pressure up even with 1/2" line hose clampped to the stock sender. As for most people I talk to even with drawstraws inside the stock sender still have problems with the pump drawing out fuel quicker than it can be replenished... But that's what I know...

Lift pump is dead... VP44 might have some damage on it. The VP44 should rev clear to 3K or a bit more. But free rev is not a proper fuel pressure test... As in my video you only see about 2-3 PSI drop from idle to WOt which is normal any more that 5 PSI drop or pressure drop below 10 PSI is a instant fail. http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=grl72Up-8T0 You want to keep it in the green.

A lot of people cut them way too short affraid of the straw sucking to the bottom of the tank. But actually its the reverse as the tank is filled diesel weighs about 6.1 pounds per gallon so the bottom of the tank deflects another 3/8 of a inch and now with a overly short drawstraw a simple sloosh action will give the 1/4 tank issue. Since my drawstraw is cut so close the tank will pull up tight ot the straw as the fuel level drops preventing the 1/4 tank issues as much. Also don't cut the tip at a 45* anlge must be FLAT! You may notch the tip but only 1/16 to 1/8" deep that's all.Don't get me wrong I can still see quarter tank issue but I understand what causes it... This video was shot at about a 1/4 tank...(2:53 is where it falls) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=grl72Up-8T0

Personally I would just do a drawstraw into the tank and not the sender can. I really don't have the 1/4 tank issue unless I'm driving like I stole it. But if I drive like a human being I can run it down to the empty mark without any problems.Only a quarter (coin) will fit between the tip and the bottom of the tank. Absolutely no no problems here...

I'm not knocking RevMax but the vendor source through EBay. It really hurts to spend big money on parts and have a difficult time dealing with a warranty issues through a Ebay vendor.

Ryan is right... Also the newer filter cans flow more fuel than the old school.

I hate to say it but if it comes from Ebay I'm instantly turned off... I rather buy a quality product from a quality transmssion shop with a warranty than buy from a fly by night vendor on Ebay... Check out some of the vendors here... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/mopar1973mans-dealer-contacts/12-dealers--vendors

Sorry you just left me behind... Automatic trans issues are not my cup of tea... Sorry.

Edge Juice will most likely just read from the MAP sensor...

Does it crank? Bad key switch?

That bolt is a boost bolt for the boost gauge... But there is better ways of doing that like using the pipe plug over by the MAP sensor (3/4")

He doesn't have the 24V collar for our injectors...

Instaled in the test port... So I would assume you need the filter head assembly might be a salavage yard item if you can find it.

Adding more freon make the output air warmer... :duh:The lower the low side pressure the colder the output air becomes. Output temp in theory is the inside ring for R-134a as you can see I marked out the 35-40*F area. (Typo'ed the temps! :banghead:)Back in the day when I recharged R-12 freon on refridgrators typically it was 2-5 PSI on the low side. Then for the old 73 Dodge Charger which was also R-12 I always went for 40 PSI that kept the evaporator from freezing up for down in Cally on humid days.