Mopar1973Man

You want to fall in the 14-20 PSI pressure range while driving. Like my truck I've got about 19 PSI at idle and 17 PSI at WOT. This is a good pressure span and pressure fall. I know the minimum specification is 10 PSI but you have to remember Bosch requires 70% of the fuel to be returned back to the tank for proper cooling and lubing requirements. But if the overflow valve is closed by 10 PSI and open by 14 PSI that mean you've got to keep above 14 PSI to keep the return flow going. Keep it in the green!

As for the transmission line they need to be seperated and protected. If the lines are actual touch they will eventually rub a hole each other. I would look into loosening fittings up a bit and see and swiveling the lines to gain some space or at the worse bending/bowing then a bit to gain the sapce.

AH64ID is right 750w heater can suck up a lot of kwh's of power... :whistle:Since I left the fire dept I don't bother with plugging in at all. The truck is stored in a unheated garage. But Grid heaters is all I need for the first part of the start and then allow high idle to kick in for short time to build just a little temp (around 100*F) and I leave.

You'll have to understand Dripley has been picking on me about my screaming beaver (Chainsaw) since the firewood pics last fall.

No harm in leaving it plugged in. Back when I worked for the fire dept I use to leave mine plugged in all winter for the sole purpose of have the engine warm enough to leave instantly so I could get down the road to the fire house about 1 mile away.

Kind of like mine... I've got enough room for my generator (4kw) and the ATV in my 02 Cummins or just the ATV in the 96 Dodge... But I need the tailgate down on the 96 Dodge because its a shortbox and now since the winch is back on there isn't enough bed...

Problem though... These wolves are not native to the area and were transplanted here...

Well I'll admit they aren't the fastest rig in the shed but it will sure haul the loads. Like I know mine tops out at 56 MPH period goes no faster. But typically it runs about 45-47 MPH with my big tail in the saddle and all the junk in the baskets. But now hitch up my 8x8 trailer behind it it will drag that trailer anywhere you want to go. No joke. Before I added the rear basket I use to use the ATV for a trailer dolly. (Of course I'm not dropping the Jayco on it!) But now I use the 96 dodge for the trailer dolly.

Now you know why everyone in the northwest wants these things killed off. Also that why I normally have a gun on me most of the time...

Geez Thanks...Hopefully I'll get some pics of it out in the forest with my screaming beaver on the back.

I wanted to show off my little ATV...2008 Honda Rancher 4203000# Electric Winch (Wireless Remote Control)Oversized rear basketFront metal basketIt my little yard mule for hauling the firewood to the house and other chores. In the front basket is the 2 black bags. That's all my gloves, beanie, rope, tie straps, MRE, water, toilet paper, etc. I've even got a small bag of tools jammed in the rear bin. Under the front basket I've got a shovel and a pulaski for getting me out of a jam or two...

Check this out guys and gals... Best to stay armed when you out and about in Idaho... http://gothunts.com/wolf-attacks/ Video... http://www.kxly.com/localvideo/index.html?v=27487

Dripley is right on the money... You want to scan the codes, write them down and then clear them. Then take a drive with the vehicle and see if the codes return it might take 5-10 miles of driving to trigger the condition of the code(s). But then the second batch of codes are the real codes that are currently a issue. But the first batch of code you might loo into because in might be loose wire or a wet connector problem...

If there is no problems... P-PCU--------P DoneP-ECU--------P DoneThat is all you'll see. No codes but just p-done twice.But if there is old code(s) they will be stored for 40 warmup cycles... (Not key cycles!)

Now there is a pre filter than is worth making... :wink:I'm still going to get me a piece of fabric and going to make me one...

Seems like our northern brothers and gathering up...

Just got done with this problem on my truck the cable had froze up completely and only 1 brake was working. But cables are really cheap to replace through RockAuto.Com. I paid all of $22 bucks for my passenger side cable. It might be worth looking into replacement of the cables than wondering if the cable going to last... Just checked on RockAuto.Com and yours are ranging from $12 bucks to $25 bucks.

No using the key trick where you turn the key On - Off - On - Off- On in under 5 seconds then it will diplay error codes in the odometer display. http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=7XQJmaIF9Do

Might not be a bad idea... It might give you a peek in side look around for any damage. It could be that the metal was up in the axle tubes and now has flushed out?

Neither am I but still...

Most likely the metal is from a previous problem and it wasn't cleaned... So I would replace it and then keep an eye on the rear diff oil and the plug magnet and see if there is more metal showing up.

Right here... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/23-brake-system/29-antilock-braking-system-abs

You could use either product as far as I know...

Smarty would be the only choice for a programmer that can read codes and give a boost of power. As for being able to read codes and give back information back (live data) then you would be looking at a ScanGauge II be the boost of power is not part of it.

Dripley is right the rear speed sensor is failing that why the speedometer is not functioning properly. Not to mention its messing with the ABS computer because its seeing half a truck rolling faster than the other half so ABS is confused... Just replace the rear speed sensor and you'll be good to go...