Mopar1973Man

Yes that is the resistor pack for the blower motor...

That's going to be a nice little trailer when its all said and done...

Automatic trannies will tell you your doing something wrong by either slipping or by gaining temperature. So if the tranny temp is low and the gear is holding strong then enjoy... The best man to talk to about auto's and towing heavy is CajFlynn that man hauls the loads and does it for at least million of miles!

What a mess... :rolleyes:I'm curious to see your new stove jammed in there...

Here is a picture of at least my 35 gallon fuel tank...So just because of a bit of slope or maybe weight in the bed might allow you to fill one of these voids so now with a extra 0.5 to 1.0 gallons could really possible change you calibration.

I would base that on trans temp and ablity to hold the gear without slippage. Like myself I've got a manual but normally don't tow any faster than 55-60 MPH being my trailer tires are rated only to 65 MPH. So I can pull 5th gear most of the time on flat ground. But as soon as the speed falls below 50-53 MPH I drop from 5th to 4th to reduce strain on the trans and 5th gear nut. So the same should be true for Auto's as well. As your speed starts to slide down you know when to kick out of OD and pull your RPM's up to lighten the load.

If its rusted shut try freeing it with a light tapping from a small hammer and PB blaster... If you damage it trying then replace it. But either way you got nothing to lose... I would atempt to free it...But I give you something to think about the only way for that wastegate to rust shut is too much light driving. You might consider hitching up a trailer now and then and working the truck hard. That would build some good heavy boost enough to move the arm on a regular basis. I tend to do the same thing being conservative all wek long light driving and light boost. But about once a week I'll take the truck out warm it up and flog the hell out of it. Better yet when get the tags for the trailer soon I'll just hitch it up and haul it around for 10 miles.

Here you go... Good ol' ISX to the rescue...

Doubtful but there is a way to test that too... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/24-air-system/122-turbo-inspection If the turbo bearing are going south you would have oil in the exhaust pipe and/or oil in the intake piping. This would be cause from hot shutdowns. In other words you should take a peek at your pyrometer and get your exhaust temp down to 300*F before shutdown. This prevents turbo shaft from coking up and doing damage to the turbo.

Actually its the return line to the filler neck will have all this behind the fitting...

He's there is no cutoff switch it just too small of a heater (750w) to heat all hat cast iron, 6 gallon of coolant and the air around it. What seriously funny about it is the water heater here at the house is (1,100w) in a 60 gallon water heater that is insulated does just fine to getting 140*F hot water...After relizing this I no longer will park a vehicle outside in the weather and plug it in. It extremely wasteful. When you can park that same vehicle in a unheated garage and plug it in now you got a double bonus. First the block temperatures are higher because of less wind ans weather contact. Also the the garage now is about 2-5*F warmer from the radiant heat given by the block heater.This is exactly how I use to keep it during fire fighting days. I'd keep it plugged in and the shop was always just a taste warmer than outside. The windows never had frost/ice to scrape off.

Geez... CRS... I wish I could remember the last bill I paid for oils... It was 1 ATF, 1 15w-40, 1 10w-30 and 1 80w-90 for like $300 bucks...

Here is my supplier... http://jacobs-oil.com/

I also use 1 gallon windshield wiper fluid jugs for lube oils... I'm also buying bulk oil in 5 gallon buckets too.

The only thing I can explain it away is the air bubble space in the top of the tank that may or may not come out during fill from tank tilt... As for pump flows... Most of the fuel station out here only have 1 or may 2 pumps... So flow won't change much...This has been the only way I've been able to get the ScanGauge II to hit the same number twice dead on. So just trying to make it as fool proof as possible.

Yes it will be a problem. It best to let the pump stop on its own... Because one time you might get a bit more in and another time you might not. That was a problem I've ran into and bounce up and down through the offset value every time I would load with fuel. I found if you let the pump shut off and leave it alone it will hit the mark each time.

Better yet... Go over to Ubuntu site and download the software... When you get it burnt to a disc then you can boot the disc as a test drive without loading any software on the hard drive...

Here is the same machine with all my Windows crap running... Remember this machine is running WAMP... Apache Server, MySQL server and PHP server... Linux is unusual for a OS... Most of the controls is done from a terminal. I'll have to dig up the camera and tripod and shot a few minutes of surfing linux... Now with linux I've got WINE installed so all my windows drives are completely readable in Linux. Then if there is a windows program I want to install I can in WINE. It will emulate MS Windows for me. WINE - http://www.winehq.org/ EDIT: I just remember this is a fresh install of Win Vista and I've not tweaked it yet... :banghead: I've got a bunch of services to kill off... http://www.blackviper.com/2009/05/31/black-vipers-windows-vista-service-pack-2-service-configurations/ But so far the only problem I've got is a printer driver on Mom's computer I'm closer to getting it fixed...

As for the P0234 the wastegate is rusted shut and no longer functional. It will require you to remove the turbo and then remove the wastegate motor shaft and work the wastegate free with PB Blaster or simular. As for the shift problem I'm not certain on that... I do our a automatic truck but its 46RE in the 96 Dodge and I've never worked on a Auto before... As for that truck I've had it 10 years now and never had a shifting issue yet...

Glad to have you aboard Dave...

Well so far so good the only hang up I've got right now is getting the Canon MF4150 drivers for Linux loaded for my printer. I've run into a mild snag but I'll find a solution yet some where. Rogan where are you? I'm going to end up having my computer as a dual boot computer (Ubuntu Linux / Windows Vista) for some of the odds and ends that just don't work in Linux. But I'm aiming for the Linux to be primary OS for both computers and having Mopar Mom solely on Linux now. Thing is I'm getting tired of Microsoft constant need to change the interface/desktop and having to learn how to work Windows all over again... I'm tired of anti-virus and firewall requirements of windows. Like Mopar Mom isn't exactly internet saavy so her sites happen to have lots of links that take her to so many different sites to read articles that more times out of ten she gets hit by malware or a virus. So when here Windows Vista crashed I finally gave up and install the Linux. Her machine is completely up and running fine the only thing I didn't get so far is the printer setup on my side and then share it over the network. I love the security of Linux more so that Windows. You must log back in with your password to do any administrative functions. So if you installing software you got provide a password to even install it. Better than windows click a button or even worse of people disabling the security in Windows. But I'm willing to take on the challenge and move to something different... Best part is the more I learn about Linux the better off I am for administrating for the web site because both my home computer and my web site are both run on Linux now. Like even right now this post was written using FireFox / Ubumtu Linux... --- Update to the previous post... Now that I'm getting more comfortable with Linux here is a screen shot of the system load with Firefox running and a few other APPS. Heck Windows can't even dream of running this light. Last time I check Vista would consume most of the 4GB of RAM and then create anothe 2GB in Swap file.

Kind of hard to say what is normal and what isn't these days in intake noises. But as long as the valve lash is set right and the MPG's / Performance is good I wouldn't worry about it much. But I've had phone calls from guys that owned a Cumminsd for 300K miles and never lashed the valve and complain about odd manifold noises and poor performance. After doing the lash the noise is reduced and the performance is back.

You can do all the maintenance yourself on the truck... There isn't anything you shouldn't be able to handle. As for the APPS sensor yeah it common failure part in would be best to get a Timbo's APPS. I'm running one and very easy to install and just works! As for the ABS light. Is the speedometer working coreectly? If so then you need to replace both front sensor. If not then replace the rear sensor. Pretty simple... But I do have a write up on the ABS here... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/23-brake-system/29-antilock-braking-system-abs Like Dripley said the engine is basically the same just doesn't have spark plugs... Compression ratio is much higher... Then the fuel is direct injected into the cup of the piston not the manifold.

Ah... Good sign... I would do a re-prime of the fuel system and see if it lights... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/25-fuel-system/90-repriming-a-bosch-vp44-injection-system

The thump will change with air systems... Like Dripley said it will be more pronounced. If you removed the tube all together from the turbo you won't hear it at all.. :whistle:But you could double check the valve lash to be sure everything is correct.