Mopar1973Man

Hmmm... I've never seen anything like that happen before...

To be honest... The only hiccup I've had was way back in 2016 when @MoparMomwas in the hospital for kidney failure I lost my EGT gauge it just stopped moving completely for the stepper motor of the needle. Contacted Michael as well at ISSPro and had him replace it under warranty. Kept trucking... The only thing I want to change is grab my fuel pressure gauge and slow the needle movement up so I don't hear the ticking noise of the stepper motor and the trans temp I want to adjust it even slower this one really ticks too much. Then a bit of light matching... But first get some time to work on my own trucks again.

It would be a different story if you installing a fairly large Derale Trans Cooler with Fan. Now I would opt to pull the stock heat exchanger. https://derale.com/product-footer/fluid-coolers/transmission/remote-mount2013-10-28-09-53-271226240719/13870-detail But I wanna make you think a second. Remember anything that is creating heat is a problem for efficiency. So if your transmission is making lots of temperature while daily driving then you have to consider what mods did you do to the truck that is making it inefficient. Most transmission heat issues come from oversized tires on 3.55 axle gears. Even my 1996 Dodge I had when I opted to go down in tire size it did make the running trans temperature cooler. What I'm say is look for the source of the temperature before adding a bunch of coolers to fix a temperature problem. At the same time if your planning on removing the heat exchanger you better have something to replace that amount of BTU exchange because the little cooler in the radiator tank might not be able to keep up. Hence like what I posted above in this post that would be a really good trans cooler for remote mount but places to hide such a unit is a challenge. Do consider if you offroad if any mud is splashed on the the cooler it could cake up in a short time which I've seen before.

Since then I've ran the truck to town a few laps now and Thor runs stronger and pulls better with power since the fuse. EGT's are better controlled. No CEL at all. MPG are starting to improve again.

Correct the bigger the difference of temperature the hotter it will be in the cab. The hose out of the head is the supply of hot coolant. Then the hose to the metal tube is return. This should be notably cooler.

I bought the cable its pretty cheap. Then even for me I had to set up a Virtualbox with Windows. Then I could run the software on my Ubuntu Linux PC to set the gauges. The biggest thing everyone likes about these gauges is the RED warning light. When I do sell a set of gauge for clients I always take the 30 seconds and program the gauges for what they are set up for. Like EGT's warning light is set for 1,200*F. Boost depending on the limits of there turbo, fuel pressure 13 or lower the light is tripped. Then trans temp I set for 220*F. Now you just notice the red light in level on the a-pillar and know exactly what is going on without even looking at the gauge. For example mine are from top to bottom... Boost, Fuel pressure, and EGT's so if like yesterday it was really cold and my fuel start to thicken a bit and pressure dropped below 13 for a few miles but I knew what was going on without even monitoring the gauge because the center gauge lit up and I knew pressure is lower than 13 and quick glance it was 11 to 12 PSI. I kept truckin' soon the fuel warmed up and pressure popped back up to 17 like normal warning light went out.

I'll have to show you. I'll pull one of my gauges tomorrow and get photo of it. There is a main port (6 pin) that you'll see. Then just below it you may see the other smaller 6 pin plug this is the USB port. There is a plastic part on the square opening that you can break out with a pair of needle nose pliers. Again I would have to see a photo of the gauge back I can tell you.

I would like to see the back of the gauge. There is a plastic piece of trim in the back you can remove to access the USB port in back (4 pin connector) then you able to program the gauges for warning lights, lighting, needle movement etc.

I would keep them. Really easy to install. I prefer the ISSPro EV2 series over any mechanical gauge now. Being the ISSPro EV2 is programmable and can have custom warning lights per each gauge. So tell me which ones you got and I can help you set up.

SOLVED!!! Number 1 the Dodge FSM book has a error in the wiring map in the P0243 code document. But if you go to the 8W-30-28 page in the 2006 Dodge FSM and look at the wastegate solenoid versus the P0243 page with its map two different things. Here is the correct diagram. Then here is the incorrect map that is provided at the P0243 code... Now take look at the fuse number. The second one is fuse #36 vs the correct one that is fuse #6. Then look at the wire color on the second one the map calls for one grey/pink. Then the correct one is pink//yellow from the solenoid to the C130 connector. Then above the C130 connector turns to the Red/orange which the first map is correct. So this could really mess with you. So back to the problem the previous owner must have blown that fuse and never replaced it or something because the port was empty for #6. Now that I plugged a 30A fuse in it since that was my biggest fuse on hand the error code is gone. Then now that solves the other problem with the fan clutch and summer overheating being the same fuse that runs the fan clutch. Just needed a fuse in the #6 port and problem solved.

I would say leave the cooler in place just me personally.

As for your brakes I would double check everything. Assembly, cables, you can actually look at the way things work in the drum by having a partner slow and lightly pressing on the brake pedal and watch the shoes slowly expand past the point, it should pull the cable tight and ratchet up the star wheel. I wonder if the ID of the drum is TOO wide and constantly wheeling up the shoes because the shoes are just traveling too far every stroke. I would suggest checking the ID of the drum for size.

I typically verify the ECT to the IAT values on live data tools. Cold engine, key on engine off, then read both ECT and IAT values typically they match at first key on cycle.

Actually an open circuit is going to cause a high volt code being there is no ground. The +5V and sense at the ECM will see +5V and hi volt code is thrown. Now if the if its shorted to ground now the voltage goes low and now will trip the lo volt code. So an open circuit will make the gauge go hi in value, and shorted to ground will make the gauge value go down. This should help explain this... +5V & Sense -----> ECT Sensor <------ Return to ECM Ground.

Ah. Now I know what you are talking about now. I guess your pulling the yolk to get that ring off.

Another you could do is pull the entire engine harness and send to @Auto Computer Specialist they do harness repairs of this type.

that should cover the p0336 code.

So lets start with the code I know its not list here. The P0243 code is a wastegate solenoid issue. Either there is no +12V power or no control from the ECM on the ground side. Now I can say that this wiring diagram is not very helpful at all. The wire colors are wrong here too. The plug at the solenoid is Dark Blue (ground to ECM) then there is pink/yellow. Then tracing back from the solenoid I do have continuity from the pink/yellow to the C130 connector. At this point the wire swaps to red/orange color heading to the TIPM. Now that red/orange wire now there is two connectors in the TIPM that have this red/orange colored wire going to the module. One is constant hot +12V the other one is dead even key on. A friend informed me it might be powered with tach signal (engine running). I've thought of cutting in a new key hot power line to the c130 connector and going form there. I don't want to start chopping up wiring to make this work. The other problem is there is no continuity from the c130 to either red/orange in the TIPM. Now I'm stumped. Little info or help would be nice... ADDON: I finished my oil change and then fired up and checked the orange/yellow wire at the TIPM and there is no power present. Fuse is good. Power across the fuse as well. Even with the solenoid removed from the turbo and unplugged there is no code for the solenoid being missing. I figured it would pop the code fairly instantly. According to the 2006 Dodge FSM • When Monitored: When the ignition is on. • Set Condition: The ECM detects an open or short circuit in the Wastegate solenoid circuit.

@JAG1Sorry to say I can't use a stock air box too restrictive for Beast. I'm sure not going to dust a good engine with washable filters so BHAF is the solution. Filter in a wire mesh cage.

IR Thermometer could be had at Harbor Freight for cheap. https://www.harborfreight.com/121-infrared-laser-thermometer-63985.html?_br_psugg_q=infrared+thermometer It's not like we are measuring temperature for exact. But these cheap temp guns do work and will temp roughly tell you how hot or cold something is.

Might pull the sensor off the back and use some silicone spray or WD-40 to displace the water.

Here we are January 01, 2022 Starting the new year.

I'm more of a manual guy. But... I'd say upgrade the cooler only if your trans temp was up to 200°F too often. Then I would up grade. Seriously my Dynamic 46RE built 1/2 ton Dodge ran seriously cool most times even hauling trailer. Proper built trans will run cooler. Also proper final ratio. Even that truck was running 215/85 R16. So that made it 3.6x:1 or so.

Blue Chips special X is too advanced. That's your hard start or possibly the key is crushed and timing is advanced. I've seen both cases causing hard start. Fuel pressure to high could cause hard starting. Fuel pressure should be 7 to 12 PSI. Should not be any higher during cranking. Try unplugging the FASS and see if it starts easy. Excessive pop pressure on injectors greater than 330 bar. Make it tough to start cold. For easy starts low fuel pressure and retarded timing is way easier to start.

Even AFe with the airbox is a mouse condo. BHAF is pretty good choice and I've not seen and had any problems.